does any one have the mesurments for them? I would like to make some very similar to sphohn ones but, of course not his since that would be wrong seriously. I was going to buy his but, If I can make my own then I would rather do that pluse the fact I will need to make several for my many rear diffs

 

do a search, someone gave me a autocad file a long time ago for them. i didn't save the file but printed it out. you have a fax? i can fax them to you, i don't have a scanner. actually i think you could pretty much put something together while setting the pinion angle without having a plan to follow.

 

I made up the dwg-cad- from a BMR part. Will email the file to you. You will need AUTOCAD 14 OR BETTER TO OPEN...
1988 Formula 350
13.93@99.32mph

 

thanks alot ede and MIDNITERIDER. If you guys don't mind I would post them here for everyone else

 

Yeah thanks too MIDNITERIDER for the file. I might try & make my own too. We'll see

 

only question i've been wondering is:

does it help on the tration for a non-lowered car, to relocate the lca brackets? i'd go with them if it would help a noticable difference...

 

i also have designs for both The BMR and the Shpohn LCR relocation brackets if any one is interesed.

 

banditt, I just got the bmr one, how different are they really?

 

From what i've read on a couple different boards the Spohn LCARB are best used with adjustable LCAs.i haven't heard anything like that about the BMRs.i'm in the process of making a set going by the BMR design.

 

yes. they help.

 

I would like a autocad drawing of the LCA brackets. Thanks

 

I'm with Mr_Dude1. THey helped my car a lot. THe rear will stick a lot better now.

 

Hey Tony is that you? lol hows it going? anyway im interested in these also. gotta get the rear to stick for the 383 going in soon.

 

hey guys i love to weld and cut so if anyone has a set of lca instructions they want to share feel free to shoot me a line at
vwsuperbug74@aol.com

thx guys i get started on them as soon as i get the directions.

 

Can someone please send me the specs also?

My e-mail is tbrewer3@indy.rr.com

Also, Will Autocad 2004 work to open these files?

Thanks guys!

-Terry-

 

i have autocad 2004 and 2005 or soemthing on my shcool computer, i was hopign to build a set of them as well
if anyone could email it to me , that woudl be sweet! *thumbs up*

my email is spekbikes@hotmail.com


thanks

 

I am also very interested in the specs for either type of LCA relocation brackes.

littlebagz@yahooo.com

Thanks much guys....

 

me too please.

eighty4z28@wideopenwest.com

 

I don't have autocad so can someone send me the specs for the spohn lcarb's? I'd greatly appreciate it.
mjustdie@yahoo.com

 

I dont have auto-cad, but could someone please send me the specs on the BMR brackets? Thanks!

christian_huffman_73@hotmail.com

 

I'd really appreciate a copy of the file as well please, I'm running AutoCAD 2002, chevyguy1984@hotmail.com. Thanks.

 

e-mail me if you want a copy.i have it saved as PDF file so you don't need to be running any AUTOCAD programs to open it.

 

theres nothing wrong with that at all, provided that you arent selling it to people......provided of course that steve has a patent on it

 

You can argue that both ways. At stock or near stock ride height they will give you more antisquat. Will that help you? Not if you’re using a radial tire, or anything that doesn’t have a super soft sidewall that can absorb a lot of energy. If you’re a road race junky then it will probably hurt you since it will cause power on under steer in the corners, making the car pretty difficult to drive (the thing will try to stop turning when you expect it to turn more). For autox it will depend mostly on what you’re fighting against on the particular course.

 

then again, at the height 99% of thirdgens are at (from either saggy springs, or lowering springs.. very few people have replaced them with new full stock height springs) on the upper hole, it does nothing more then change the geometry back to stock (or close to it)

 

I would love it if someone sent me some spec.s , cad files will work.... thank you so much...

rippedtornheart@yahoo.com

 

Yea, but optimal rear suspension geometry for handling use on an f-body is with the rear of the LCAs slightly higher then the front

 

i made my lower control arm brackets, and i dont think it made my launch any better! possibly worse :S i have it set to the lowest hole on my brackets, and the other day i shifted it to second gear and the car went sideways, and it never used to!!! could it just be the fact that im running a bf goodrich 16" 245 tire? when i try to launch it, and i am stalling and by the time i hit about 1500 rpm im already spinning and i havent even left the line yet!!

is that why these brackets didnt help , ksue my tires are jsut plain ****ty?

i have a set of comp t a's and a set of kelly radial tires and these bf goodrich ones. but all of them seem the same(hard compound or something)

 

Hey, can someone with a copy of the spohn drawings contact me (I emailed and pm’ed the people with drawings of both and only got a response on the one set of BRM ones). I intend to find the common dimensions and post some generic drawings that can just stay up somewhere (I’ve got web space, I’ll probably just put the up there).

As far as making them worse… read what I wrote here and in other threads. They work, but only if your tires have enough give in them to absorb the extra energy. Adding anti-squat hits the tires harder. If the tires can’t flex to absorb and then use that energy they just let go. Typically it feels like they are grabbing hard and then letting go, kinda like someone left a million ball bearings in front of your tires, so you lunch hard and then just spin…

 

if i could also get the cad file, i would appriciate it

solarofthesix@hotmail.com

 

I've already got a pair of Spohn LCARB in a box at home, but rather then having to e-mail all the files back and forth, I'll host them as long as they aren't huge.

Send them to tj@midwaydisplays.com and I'll get them up on my site.

 

Has anyone posted the dimentions on a webpage yet? I'm looking to make a set myself and would like a copy. I have autocad so that's not a problem. If someone has the file handy they can e-mail me at:

gerowje@unocal.com

 

I will as soon as someone actually sends me a copy of the spohn drawings.

I have a copy of the BMR ones but with the curves they used it's a bit difficult to get useful generic dimensions off of them without actually copying the curves or building a set to see where exactly everything lines up when put up against the factory bracket. I was also hoping to compare the differences.

 

Go ahead and send me what you got for the bmr ones. I too would like to see the difference but I'm running out of time next Saturday I have another drag weekend coming up and would like to see a little more traction. I have material and welder, torch, plasma cutter...machine shop if need be, and can improvise as needed. Any help would be appreciated. I know I can mail order them for around $60 but shipping to Alaska is much higher than anywhere else in the United States... that's why I've made my own subframe connectors and anything else that I can without mail-order. If you have the bmr one's installed give me what dim's you have and send me a pic or two, I'm fairly competent I can figure the rest out. I have mic's and compasses's(spl) and can usually figure the angle's myself. Need to show up a friend that I built a 400+hp 350cid for a 84' Monte Carlo. He ran a best of 14.02 with slicks and 3.42 gears. I ran a best of 14.49 last week with street tires and spinning through 1st every run. I will post my mods when I have a decent time...

 

Double post.

 

Sorry triple post.

 

I'm interested in the AutoCAD drawing too. Someone please send me the blueprints.

launchpad@sasktel.net

Thank You!!!!!

 

how thick should the steel be on these to insure they dont bend i would like to make a set of my own also after i get finished with my wonder bar and strut tower brace

 

My BMR brackets are 3/16" thick....

 

i would like some specs too i have access to some pretty sweet machines in our machine shop at school i also need them to get rid of my horrible wheel hop from being lowered

 

First, I’ve said this dozens of times and I’ll say this one more time… Wheel hop is not the result of lowering your car, bad stock parts… it is the result of something worn out, broken or loose. PERIOD. I don’t care if “I’ve checked everything and it’s fine and it still does it…” you’re missing something. I’ve had people tell me that half a dozen times and when I saw it I found what was loose/not right in less then 2 minutes, I have never seen a 3rd or 4th gen f-body that had wheel hop that everything was right on, even with well worn stock pieces, as long as they’re in functional shape you will not get wheel hop.

Second, unless you’re running fairly soft tires, these things are worthless with getting you more traction, you’ll get more antisquat with them, but with stiff, low profile tires that just means that you’ll bounce the tires harder off the pavement without any sidewall to absorb the force.

That being said, I know that I said that I will post a generic drawing after I see both the spohn and BMR drawings (I’ve got the BMR cad drawing and the scan of the spohn parts, FWIW, whoever made that scan has them mislabeled. If you scale the drawing so that 1” = 100 pixels you’ll find that all but 2 or 3 of the dimensions add up as labeled, but a few do not).

But:
- I haven’t had the time to do the drawing
- I don’t see the point, since if you’re going to fabricate your own you can do it more accurately in a different way… let me explain:

both the relo brackets are basically knockoffs of each other (I know, they look completely different), but hold on, if you measure them or copare the drawings they both index with the stock brackets the same way, both lower the 2 points 2” and 3” and both offset the 2 new holes the same amount. There is NO functional difference between the 2 (and both have the same design flaws).

The problem with both designs is that there is no ACCURATE way to locate them. They are both designed to index on the back of the control arm bracket… well I haven’t seen any cars that don’t have some scrapes there, someone hasn’t tagged something hard with the thing or jacked it by that point or the shock mount next to it so that it is slightly flattened, pried on it removing the LCA’s, production tolerances…. Well a couple of 1/1000ths off there makes the difference of a couple of degrees and a few 1/10s of an inch in for the actual axle location and you end up with a car that won’t track straight in normal driving. If you get adjustable LCA’s to fix that it won’t launch straight because your antisquat will be different on both sides.

That being said a MUCH better way of doing it is to first weld steel onto the bottom of the bracket to extend the bracket. I would actually butt weld it, but only if you’re welding skills are pretty good. That avoids having to add the spacers that both aftermarket brackets have lining their insides.

After you’ve got your “brackets” welded on use a jack to position the axle so that the pinion angle is 0* (you can do this in the car with nothing but a jack and a level). Once you have it at 0* use the level to scribe a vertical line through the original pivot, then mark your new bolt hole locations and drill.

For example, if you lower your pivot locations 1.5”, then the hole has to move forward .060”, 2” - .1”, 3” - .215”… (for other locations just approximate something between my numbers or work it out… remember high school trig?)

The BMR and Spohn brackets both have pivots at 2” and 3”. If it was me doing it, I KNOW that without real slicks the 3” location is worthless and the 2” location is borderline worthless (I have a set of spohns on my 6 speed ’97 WS6, with 275 40 17 Nitto DR’s I launch the best with the LCA’s in the stock pivot point). For a typical lowered street/strip car I’d probably make my 2 holes at roughly .75” and 1.5” or maybe 1” and 2”, and for a road race car I’d probably keep it stock or about .625” lower then stock (contrary to popular belief you REALLY don’t want to go past parallel to the ground for an application that you expect to handle well).

HTH

 

I'm glad I ran across this article, my control arm bolt holes became elongated somehow when I switched the rear end and need to reinforce the area but wasn't exactly sure of how to do it. My plan was to use 1/4" flat steel on the outside of the existing bolt holes, drill out, weld in place and use grade 8 fasteners that I have purchased for the project. If anyone has better Ideas please give them to me I would appreciate it. I need some ideas as to how to get the rearend mounted "square". Also, I too would like to request plans. I have solid works 2004. Thanks in advance.

 

I normally agree with you on most things Mark, but I have to dissagree here.

For a long long time I didn't believe in the LCA thing. I replaced the springs, control arms, panhard, torque arm, etc, etc etc.

The last mod I did recently was the LCA relocation brackets. I was talking with another member and said "Ok, screw it, i'll try them".

The fact is, they lowered my 60 foot down .300, and helped wheel hop taking off with my ceramic clutch.

Obviously, broken / misinstalled parts will lead to suspension problems. and heck, 90% of the third gens on the road with stock parts prolly have issues. But I *know* these LCA relocation brackets helped me with planting issues.

And as far as your comment about soft tires; your right; they made my BFG drag radials stick damn good.

-- Joe

 

Could people send me files of PDF, power point, or what ever. I'll find a way open them.
I would like to put them on my car domain site so every one can use them.
I have my email open so any one can send me stuff.

 

ill take those cad files too if anybody will send them to me.
my email is in my pro or my member name @aol.com thanks
jon