Built my own leak down tester
#1
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Built my own leak down tester
Well looked around all day for a place that sells a leak down tester and only found that Napa sells it for $110. I wasn’t about to pay that so I want to home depot and bought all the fittings and made my own, what do you guys think?
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Car: Camaro Z281991 Engine: 5.7L/350 TPI Transmission: TH700R4 ··································· Car: Acura CL 1998
Engine: 3.0L/183
Transmission: 4 spd auto/OD
looks great !
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
In case anyone else is tempted to do the same http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by Apeiron
In case anyone else is tempted to do the same http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
In case anyone else is tempted to do the same http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
Last edited by 89 Iroc Z; 07-01-2004 at 12:14 PM.
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Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
The female disconnect keeps the gauge portion sealed until you hook it to the hose going to the cylinder. You adjust the regulator for whatever pressure (he specifies 100psi) and then hook it to the cylinder....the .040 orifice serves as a restrictor to control the airflow and the gauge reads how much pressure the cylinder will hold at that given flow rate. Higher pressure equals less cylinder leakage.
Open valves will show near 0 psi and a good sealed cylinder will be in the 90+ psi range (using 100 psi feed.)
Open valves will show near 0 psi and a good sealed cylinder will be in the 90+ psi range (using 100 psi feed.)
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Right, sealing it up and then watching the pressure bleed off doesn't really tell you much.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Oh okay, I get it now. I guess opening the valve slightly would be too inaccurate, so I will have to figure out some way of making a restrictor.
EDIT: The smallist drill bit i could find was 1/16 = 0.0625 = ~1.588mm, do you guys think it matters that much if it is not .04?
EDIT: The smallist drill bit i could find was 1/16 = 0.0625 = ~1.588mm, do you guys think it matters that much if it is not .04?
Last edited by 89 Iroc Z; 07-02-2004 at 10:16 AM.
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Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
A bigger hole will make it less sensitive. It'll probably still be good for burnt valves and what-not, but really slow leakage like through a borderline head gasket may be a little harder to see.
For really small bits, try looking in the Dremel section. they have some pretty tiny ones sometimes.
For really small bits, try looking in the Dremel section. they have some pretty tiny ones sometimes.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
In the dremel section I found a 1/32 and 3/64 drill bit.
1/32=~0.031=~0.79 Millimeters
3/64=~0.047=~1.19 Millimeters
So the question is which drill bit to use? Anyone have a suggestion?
1/32=~0.031=~0.79 Millimeters
3/64=~0.047=~1.19 Millimeters
So the question is which drill bit to use? Anyone have a suggestion?
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Either one would probably be close enough. Try a hobby store though, they have all kinds of tiny drill bits.
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
KD Tools P/N 901, includes 14mm and 18mm spark plug to 1/4" NPT adapters. Costs about $5. Or you can use a P/N 2992 which is the same thing in a 14" hose. I'm sure there are other sources as well.
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