Is the upper plenum supposed to be this dirty?


BTW Im trying to get the EGR valve out. Any way to test it while it is still installed?

 

Thers a line that comes from the EGR, and then one from the TB. The one from the TB was disconnected when I was taking the plenum off to check the EGR. Not sure if I did it by mistake or what. But it is hard to keep the line in there. In fact it feels like it is too short. What is its purpose?



Also, I tested the EGR (sort of) just by seeing if it held a vacuum. It did, so I guess it is not leaking. I am still getting code 32 and failing emissions (NOX). Anything else I should look at?

 

the black sooty mess is caused by the combination of exhaust gas recirculation and oil vapor from the PCV valve, so in short, yes the black stuff is normal. if i am remembering correctly oxides of nitrogen (NOx) is usually produced by high combustion chamber temperatures. check the ignition timing and make sure the engine is as cool as possible when it is tested. if needed, install a 180 degree thermostat and wire the cooling fans to stay on while the car is on the rollers. also it is possible that your EGR valve may not be opening, which could be caused by no vaccum at the EGR solenoid, or a non functioning EGR solenoid

 

Thanks,
I have already replaced the solenoid. I have also looked at the lines and they are not blocked. Im pretty much .

How easily should the EGR open and close? I can move it with my hands, but not sure if it is enough for the motors vacuum to do so.

 

If your vacuum line to the TB was disconnected or not sealing good that will throw everything off as well. Replace that vac line and see if it doesn't run a whole lot better. I'd also use some carb cleaner and clean out that plenum and the runners (have to remove the runners first), then go with a 180 thermostat. That's what I did with my old 305 and it ran much better (I've since gone to a 383 SuperRam).

 

I cant get that last rear EGR bolt out, even with this 3/8 crows foot I bought. I guess all I can do now is put it all back together, take the EGR and tools back, and take it to a ****ing auto mechanic. My back is about to ****ing go out.

 

Hose it down with PB Blaster, AeroKroil, or WD-40, sit down and drink 2 beers, and go back after it. It'll come out.

 

take a "tawainese" combo 3/8 wrench, and bend a 45* angle it it with a hammer. Put the box end on the bolt, and a 9/16" wrench on the open end of the 3/8. REMOVE counter-clockwise
regards,
shaggy

 

It broke.

 

The wrench or the bolt?

 

hey, if the bolt broke, yank off the egr, and latch on to the bolt with visegrips.

 

Heh, no the wrench.

 

well.............. use some jb-weld and get midevil on it.

 

Japaneese style?

No seriously I cant do that

 

nah man....... i am american AIR FORCE stationed here, and lucky enough to find a thirdgen, like 1 of 6 firebirds and maybe 20-25 camaros, here. Believe me there are no free rides. I am learning body work, and everything. Hell noone wants to help over here. They like to novelty of it, but thats it. I guess it's just too slow for the skylines....

 

MY system was like that, I blasted it with walnut shells, left it like new.

If it's a negative-back pressure type it needed to be tested at about 2000rpm, otherwise apply vacuum to the port at idle and the engine should stall.

 

Well anyway, Im putting all the back together. The t40 bolts - there are 2 different sizes. I have two that are longer than the other 6. Where do the longer ones go? Man I dont care anymore. I just want the bolts in so I can get it to the mechanic and tell him to fix it or buy it.

 

The 2 longer ones are the ones that go in from the center towards the outside and screw into the runners - on one end on each runner (front on passenger side, rear on driver's side).

 

Sorry Im out of it right now and cant catch where you are talking about. I just took some pics and highlighted in green where you make it sound like they go.

Again, I took the upper 4 bolts off on both sides, and accidentally one lower bolt on the drivers side.

 

i WAS TALKING ABOUT THE LOWER RUNNERS TO INTAKE BOLTS, SORRY!

I don't know off the top of my head on the upper bolts, and have no place to look (I have a SuperRam).

Again, SORRY!

 

Oh ok. So all top 8 bolts are the smaller ones.
I seriously just want to get this thing back on the road, to the mechanic, and thats it. LS1 and 4L60E down the road.

 

easiest way..... to install bolts is to stick them into the runner holes and make sure the all have "about the same" amount of threads going into the intake manifold. You can also search for keyword intake bolts, or runner screws. I have read about this before. I did mine the way i states though, just look for all to fit"about" the same way.

 

(7) T-40 torx bolts that attach the runners to the upper plenum that are about 1.25" long. Threads go all the way to the head.

(1) 10mm hex "stud" that goes on the driver's side (top-middle) which holds that small plastic bracket for the throttle and cruise control cables.

(6) T-40 torx bolts that attach the runner sto the intake manifold. Three per side. These are the same size (about 1.25") as the runner to upper plenum bolts. One of these bolts is hidden on the opposite side facing the intake manifold. It's the so-called "hidden" bolt that many forget about. One hidden bolt per runner side.

(2) T-40 torx bolts about 1.50" long. Threads do not go all the way to the head. The passenger-side one will be the farthest to the front. The driver's-side one will be the farthest to the rear. One bolt per runner side.

(4) T-40 torx bolts that go in between each runner pair. These are about 2" long and the threads do not go all the way to the head. Two bolts per runner side.

 

Thanks all.
I found one more 3/8 tool Im going to try. Probably wont work. I tried to find a distributor wrench, or wahtever they are called, but they only come in 1/2 and 9/16 sizes. Im tired of buying tools.

 

OHHH BOOO YAAA
took it off, but slit my hand in half on the runners doing it. Oh well, its all I care. Rigged-wrench picture attached.

 

Well **** the new EGR valve's stem (where the hose hooks) is too small for the hose (IE doesnt sit on the line right and therefore is loose).

 

Thanks again. I totally forgot about the throttle/cruise cable bracket. Thought I had lost a T40

 

The upper middle t40 bolt on the passenger side, and the upper t40 bolt that is towards the front of the plenum - both will not go in straight and therefore will not tighten. I have no idea why. Every other damn bolt works just fine. It is lined up perfectly. :lala:

 

Not to belittle you, but did you start them all before you tightened them, or did you tighten them as you put them in? Start them all before you start tightening them, and there should be enough play in the parts to get them all started.
Patience, grasshopper...

 

Heh, thats the thing - I did that.
I dunno, Ill keep messing with it.