Front Wheel Bearings
#1
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Car: 89 GTA/93 S13/91 Si
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Front Wheel Bearings
alrght, so i need to replace my front wheel bearings.
how hard is it?
how do you do it?
what do i need to buy and where?
What makes em go bad?
how hard is it?
how do you do it?
what do i need to buy and where?
What makes em go bad?
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Car: 91 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Tpi 5.7
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
They are not hard to at all.
First thing you want to do if you are doing it your self is check you pads and rotors if they are worn replace them.
parts to get
2 inner bearings
2 outer bearings
2 bearing seals
good brake pads
2 rotors
tub of bearing grease
2 pins
tools you will need
laytex gloves
brake clean
c clamp
pliers
torx or alen bits for the caliper pins
large socket for the bearing nut.
short bungee cord to hang the calipers so the brake lines dont have pressure on them
First thing you want to do if you are doing it your self is check you pads and rotors if they are worn replace them.
parts to get
2 inner bearings
2 outer bearings
2 bearing seals
good brake pads
2 rotors
tub of bearing grease
2 pins
tools you will need
laytex gloves
brake clean
c clamp
pliers
torx or alen bits for the caliper pins
large socket for the bearing nut.
short bungee cord to hang the calipers so the brake lines dont have pressure on them
#6
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
They are not hard to at all.
First thing you want to do if you are doing it your self is check you pads and rotors if they are worn replace them.
parts to get
2 inner bearings
2 outer bearings
2 bearing seals
good brake pads
2 rotors
tub of bearing grease
2 pins
tools you will need
laytex gloves
brake clean
c clamp
pliers
torx or alen bits for the caliper pins
large socket for the bearing nut.
short bungee cord to hang the calipers so the brake lines dont have pressure on them
First thing you want to do if you are doing it your self is check you pads and rotors if they are worn replace them.
parts to get
2 inner bearings
2 outer bearings
2 bearing seals
good brake pads
2 rotors
tub of bearing grease
2 pins
tools you will need
laytex gloves
brake clean
c clamp
pliers
torx or alen bits for the caliper pins
large socket for the bearing nut.
short bungee cord to hang the calipers so the brake lines dont have pressure on them
When re-tightening the bearing nuts, dont overtighten.
A "Chiltons" style book will say torque to X Lb/ft, back off a 1/4 turn, then re torque to X Lb/ft...
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#8
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
I did not explain myself properly. The point I was trying to get across was that I replaced my front wheel bearings when I installed an LS1 brake kit, and that is where I got it from; from Ed's LS1 brake kit. The OP did ask where to get it from, so what I should have said, if I may correct myself, is that he could upgrade his brakes and install new wheel bearings at the same time rather than just replace the wheel bearings. This is merely a suggestion so he would not have to do the job twice IF he decides to do the LS1 brakes in the future. If not, then disregard the post. Sorry for the confusion I was very tired last night and I should have explained it like this instead!
#9
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Car: 89 GTA/93 S13/91 Si
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
alright..seems pretty straight forward
i just did my brakes 2 weeks ago so im good on that..
2 pins? what kind of pins? just need to know what to search for...
anyone have part numbers for all that?
i just did my brakes 2 weeks ago so im good on that..
2 pins? what kind of pins? just need to know what to search for...
anyone have part numbers for all that?
#11
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Mikey, when you install new bearings you will have to pack them with grease first.
Best way to do this at home is to take a glob of bearing grease in your palm and with the other hand literally slap the bearing against the palm forcing the grease up into the large tapered side of the bearing. You will have to hold it in different positions around its circle to pack the entire circumfrence of the bearing.
The races need to be pryed off and new ones can be hammered back on with the right large socket staegicallly placed against it and mild hammer taps. Socket chioce is critical so as not to damage the new race. You need to be creative and find one with the surface area flush against the race where it doesn't gouge the race with hammer taps. Use a large deep socket or galviniszed pipe or any such item that may do the trick, This will work also on the seals.
Best way to do this at home is to take a glob of bearing grease in your palm and with the other hand literally slap the bearing against the palm forcing the grease up into the large tapered side of the bearing. You will have to hold it in different positions around its circle to pack the entire circumfrence of the bearing.
The races need to be pryed off and new ones can be hammered back on with the right large socket staegicallly placed against it and mild hammer taps. Socket chioce is critical so as not to damage the new race. You need to be creative and find one with the surface area flush against the race where it doesn't gouge the race with hammer taps. Use a large deep socket or galviniszed pipe or any such item that may do the trick, This will work also on the seals.
Last edited by Vetruck; 01-30-2011 at 02:10 PM.
#12
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Car: 91 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Tpi 5.7
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
the cotter pins that keep the bearing nut from moving. Like Hairysox33 said dont over tighten the bearing nut. good way to judge if it proper torqe is the way I do it - tighten the nut with a socket by hand till you feel slight resistant when you spin the rotor then back the nut till that resistance goes away which is about 1/8 of a turn from my experiance. Make sure you dont distort the new seal when installing on the back of the rotor. clean all the old grease out of the rotor and spindle make sure there is no scoring from the bad bearings. When putting back together use lots of bearing grease and only bearing grease. Properly grease the bearing (Do not just drop it into the tub of grease that not good enough). Ask you local parts store manager to show you the proper way to do it.
#13
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
spin the rotor with one hand while tightening the castle nut with the wrench. You want it just snug but yet the rotor needs to still turn freely but with no slop in the castlenut. It you tighten without spinning the rotor you will pretty much always have slop. Always best to turn tight to the next cottterpin hole and not backing up to the last if in question on which to use when the nut falls inbetween hole postions.
I've never used a tq wrench on a wheel bearing castlenut in my life.
I've never used a tq wrench on a wheel bearing castlenut in my life.
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Car: 91 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Tpi 5.7
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
bearing seal part numbers
Autozone 8871 $2.99 each
O Reilly Auto Parts 8871 $2.99
Autozone 8871 $2.99 each
O Reilly Auto Parts 8871 $2.99
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
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Car: 89 GTA/93 S13/91 Si
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
okay so i bought timkens bearings today and some grease...
whats a race?
collars?
i cant use the old ones?
whats a race?
collars?
i cant use the old ones?
#20
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
The race is what the bearing sits against in the rotor. If you open one of the new one's you will have the bearing, and you should also have a collar/cover over it. That metal "cover" is the race. It is pressed into the rotor. One for each bearing.
#22
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Car: 89 GTA/93 S13/91 Si
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
oh..just realized that the ones i bought came with all that
thanks so much for all the help fellas!
thanks so much for all the help fellas!
#23
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Car: 1992 RS / 1989 RS
Engine: 3.1L MFI / Vortec 383 TBI
Transmission: T5 / LS-T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open / 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Mikey, when you install new bearings you will have to pack them with grease first.
Best way to do this at home is to take a glob of bearing grease in your palm and with the other hand literally slap the bearing against the palm forcing the grease up into the large tapered side of the bearing. You will have to hold it in different positions around its circle to pack the entire circumfrence of the bearing.
The races need to be pryed off and new ones can be hammered back on with the right large socket staegicallly placed against it and mild hammer taps. Socket chioce is critical so as not to damage the new race. You need to be creative and find one with the surface area flush against the race where it doesn't gouge the race with hammer taps. Use a large deep socket or galviniszed pipe or any such item that may do the trick, This will work also on the seals.
Best way to do this at home is to take a glob of bearing grease in your palm and with the other hand literally slap the bearing against the palm forcing the grease up into the large tapered side of the bearing. You will have to hold it in different positions around its circle to pack the entire circumfrence of the bearing.
The races need to be pryed off and new ones can be hammered back on with the right large socket staegicallly placed against it and mild hammer taps. Socket chioce is critical so as not to damage the new race. You need to be creative and find one with the surface area flush against the race where it doesn't gouge the race with hammer taps. Use a large deep socket or galviniszed pipe or any such item that may do the trick, This will work also on the seals.
Put the bearing between the two cones, screw it down tight, and squeeze. You can visually tell when there is enough grease in the bearing as it comes out between the rollers. It probably uses a bit more grease, but gets it around all of the rollers and through the race, and not as much to clean from your hands
Last edited by Al Hasse; 01-30-2011 at 07:38 PM.
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Car: 89 GTA/93 S13/91 Si
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
alright...new problem -_-
which are the inner/outer? the ones on the bottom say "set 6" and the top say "set 3" and the ones on the bottom are bigger..
not sure if u guys can see it but does it look like everythings there that i need?
which are the inner/outer? the ones on the bottom say "set 6" and the top say "set 3" and the ones on the bottom are bigger..
not sure if u guys can see it but does it look like everythings there that i need?
#26
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
It's not that hard but make sure when you buy your parts that the parts store guys give you the right stuff. Nothing like making 3 or 4 trips (forgetting wallet on one trip making it 2 extra drives!) just because a auto clerk went by the computer's info.
#27
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Yeah, that looks about right. When I bought mine last fall they had an outer piece and then the inner ring like your picture shows.
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Car: 1992 RS / 1989 RS
Engine: 3.1L MFI / Vortec 383 TBI
Transmission: T5 / LS-T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open / 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Larger set is the inner bearing. Looks complete with the race you need to press into the rotor (as mentioned above, you can use a large diameter socket and hammer to drive it in).
I referenced a service manual I borrowed for a different project. To preload the bearings, tighten to 12 lb/ft, then back off until just loose. Tighten to just hand tight and to where you can insert the cotter pin through the castle nut. 12 lb/ft is supposed to be enough to overcome any burrs in the spindle threads and seat the bearing in the race.
I referenced a service manual I borrowed for a different project. To preload the bearings, tighten to 12 lb/ft, then back off until just loose. Tighten to just hand tight and to where you can insert the cotter pin through the castle nut. 12 lb/ft is supposed to be enough to overcome any burrs in the spindle threads and seat the bearing in the race.
Last edited by Al Hasse; 01-30-2011 at 09:26 PM.
#30
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Where's the smilie banging his head against a wall?
New problem is right. Do you have the larger 1LE front brakes on your car? I'm thinking not... in which case those bearings are wrong. The fronts are A34 or Set 34 if Timken sells them that way. The Set 3 is for the cars with 1LE front brakes.
New problem is right. Do you have the larger 1LE front brakes on your car? I'm thinking not... in which case those bearings are wrong. The fronts are A34 or Set 34 if Timken sells them that way. The Set 3 is for the cars with 1LE front brakes.
#32
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Car: 89 GTA/93 S13/91 Si
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
yeah i had to make another trip to autozone lol..its all good tho..got em in and they work fantastic
autozone is on some *** though,,lol..they asked "is it the 5.7 350 with the GTA performance package?" i say yes and thats what they gave me..same thing happened with my break pads...they keep giving me 1LE stuff
autozone is on some *** though,,lol..they asked "is it the 5.7 350 with the GTA performance package?" i say yes and thats what they gave me..same thing happened with my break pads...they keep giving me 1LE stuff
#33
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
That seems to be a common ailment lately with the garbage data being fed to those useless counter computers, 1LE brakes for all! Wish it was like that, we'd all be happy.
At least you got some good bearings, Timken is good stuff.
At least you got some good bearings, Timken is good stuff.
#34
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Rear Disc brakes; Exc. 1LE Performance Pkg (standard 10.5" rotors and iron calipers)
Rear Disc brakes; 1LE Performance Pkg (or just Performance Pkg) (11.7" rotors with alum PBR calipers)
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; 02-02-2011 at 02:18 PM.
#38
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
All cars use the Set6/A6 inner bearings, the 1LE uses the A3/Set3 outer and the non 1LE uses the Set34/A34. The C5 caliper upgrades are all based on a std. hub so A34/A6 combo. The C4 & C4HD setups (including PBR, Baer calipers all use a 1LE hub w/ A6/A3 hardware.
#40
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
Here's my DD Brake job using a Napa Auto Parts Store.
Link = https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...brake-job.html
Link = https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...brake-job.html
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 02-10-2016 at 02:17 AM.
#41
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Car: 1986 firebird
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
just did my 86 yesterday larger bearing is inside,smaller outside. make sure you repack them good.same as everyone took about 20 minutes a side
#42
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
What I have used for years to repack bearings is a zip-lock sandwich bag. Put gloves on, take a hand full of grease put it in the bag. Place bearing in the bag and start working the grease into the bearing by putting pressure on the outside of the bag.
#44
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
When using the used race to install the new race place the thin edge of the used race to the edge of the new race. Hammer only 1/4 of the circumference then knock out the used race and work on the next 1/4. This keeps the entire used race from becoming embedded completely and difficult to remove.
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