hasty88-and-89

so im not sure if its the clutch slipping itself or my pedal not adjusted right but im preety sure its the clutch

anytime you rev to fast in gear it will just free rev as if the clutch was pressed in and wont go ANYWHERE also i can smell burning clutch when going up hilss and when it starts slipping if you continue to get on it it will start rumbling and all you can smell is clutch

i have a hard time getting up hill and cant raise the rpms while in gear at all without it slipping and just free reving i just want clarification that the clutch is slipping before i buy a new one.

ALSO MY GAS TANK IS LEAKING

if someone wants to provide the job they did in what order for the clutch job and the gas tank i would greatly appreciate it.

im preety sured i just drop the rear subframe(if there is one) for the gas tank and the clutch i dont know about it ive never had my car on a lift or been underneath it for that fact but i have good skills on my japanese turbo engine as i just rebuilt a whole eclipse gsx from the ground up well swapped everything into a bare shell at least

hasty88-and-89

please anyhelp would be appreciated thanks

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

please wait 24hrs before bumping a post.

Definatly sounds like the clutch slipping, the makes it pretty obvious.

unless you have a 82-84, your clutch is hydraulic, so its "self adjusting" Be prepaired to buy new flywheel too.

Gas tank, there is no rear subframe to remove, but you have to remove the ehxaust, the upper and lower panhard, unbolt the shocks, unbolt the brake flex line bracket form the body for some extra travel, unbolt the endlinks and drop the axle down as far as you can. On a lift is should be pretty straightforward. On the floor, you HAVE to ge the car as high as possible, it will make things easier and its a tight fit.

Obviously the fuel lines need to be disconnected, the wiring to the tank needs to be unplugged ect. Not hard with proper tools, unless you have a bad time with rusty bolts.

if you are mechanically inclinded, its pretty straight forward.

84Z28406

86TA, I believe you're partially incorrect, unless my car was updated. My Z28 is an 84 and it has a hydraulic clutch. I believe the manual clutch was only the 82 four speed cars.

hasty88-and-89

L

hasty88-and-89

Ok so the gas tank sounds fun and is the transmissioon hard to get off does the drive shaft have be unbolted from the rear diff. Or no?

Sorry if these question are wierd I'm coming from mitsubishi.

Also should I buy an oem clutch with flywheel or should I try the junkyard? Maybae eBay? I've heard the stage 4 xtd for my awd gvr4 was pretty good does anyone know if any of the ebay brands are worth it for our cars..

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Id get a good aftermarket clutch and flywheel. No cheap chinese stuff from ebay or the local autoparts store. Most of the pressure plates Ive seen are made by Valeo, so basically it comes down to the clutch disk design and friction material. Hayes makes a pretty good flywheel. Ive had my billet steel one for a long time and havent had any issues with it. I have a centerforce clutch with a standard disk, and havent had any issues with that either, but theyre by no means the only manufacturer out there. Lastly, make sure to get the right style of flywheel for your application (for an 88 or 89, its a 153 tooth external balance)

Basically to remove the clutch you need to drain the trans and take teh DS out (unbolt at the rear end, and slip it out of the trans). Then disconnect the hydrolics, shifter, wiring, speedo, etc and remove the trans (make sure to support the rear engine when you do so). From there you unbolt the bellhousing and then remove the pressure plate and clutch. Lastly, remove the flywheel. Now would also be a good time to inspect the clutch fork and hydrolics and replace as needed. Also dont forget to install a new pilot bearing.

For re-installation, make sure you thoroughly clean the flywheel and pressure plate and remove all machining oil, or the clutch will slip. Oderless mineral spirits, or anything else that doesnt leave a residue works well. Install the flywheel with new bolts torqued to spec with some threadlock. Install the clutch using an alignment tool and install the pressure plate with new bolts as well, torqued to spec. Next, install the bellhousing with the clutchfork and a new throwout bearing onto the trans, and then bolt the trans up to the engine. From there its basically a matter of hooking everything back up, and refilling the trans.

hasty88-and-89

will i need to buy the clutch alignment tool and i wont be able to tell the clutch fork and all that if it needs replacing i can inspect it but i dont know what im looking for. and is the pilot bearing going to be easy to see? and do you mean support the rear of the car cause of the weigh transfer after removing the tranny?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

For the support, I mean supporting the engine under the oil pan so it doesnt tilt back. Probably also a good idea to pull the dist. cap so you dont break it.

For the clutch fork and pivot ball, you just need to check and see if they have a lot of scuffing or scoring. In that case, they should be replaced. The pilot bearing should be replaced regardless of its condition. Its in the back of the crank.

Derrickum

I have just pulled my trans. My engine is leaking water between the bellhousing and engine so i suspect freeze plugs (I hope) anyways, I believe in the "while I'm here" so I'm planning on Changing the clutch and pressure plate. To change the pilot bearing can I just use the ol bread and a socket trick? Also, where does the throw out bearing go? Is it on the trans?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yup, the bread thing works well.

Toilet paper and water works too; or, thick grease. (what I usually use) Main thing you need for any of em to work is, a rod that fits tight enough in the old one, to allow a hammer blow on it to develop enough pressure in the packing material you fill it with, to pound it out.

The throwout bearing is on the clutch fork, around the transmission's clutch gear bearing retainer ("nose" on the front of it). You'll see it in the BH when you pull the trans.

Get the flywheel turned, or replace it if it shows signs of cracks or other end-of-life symptoms.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

In regards to the post above about supporting the engine when the trans is removed, don't just stick a floor jack on the bottom of the floor pan, put a piece of wood on the jack to distribute the pressure evenly on the pan. When I removed my transmission I just took off the distributor cap and let the motor tilt back with no support on the motor, I've had zero problems that way and even had the trans out a couple times before that.