TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

I’ve got a couple different threads going regarding an issue with my injectors – a CS130 to 144 swap and AIR pump delete. I figured I would consolidate them into a build thread of sorts.
Keep in mind this motor is in a 1986 K5 Blazer. Im sure most of you Camaro owners are familiar with these mods/issues, perhaps there’s a few out there with a TPI in something other than a 3rd Gen. I’ve done a sheet ton of work to the truck itself, but will try to keep this focused on the motor.
as bought day 1:

For starters here's a pic of the motor, as it pretty much was the day I bought the K5:

Nothing special, stock internals, K&N, Thorley headers: mated to a 700R4, 3” to cat, Magnaflo and out. One of the first things I did motor wise was add the dizzy cover, swap in a new battery, Duralast 1000cc and do what some call “The Big 3” upgrade. This consists of using 0/1G from the Pos battery post to Starter and Alt. Then 0/1G for Neg battery post to Chassis and Engine grounds:



From what I read this mod is done by guys running big systems. I don’t have a stereo at all, was a POS and pulled it. I eventually will put one back in and explain later how this mod helps me. I actually netted almost 2amps on my volt meter:

A little something I added:

Along the way I replaced the Plugs (Bosch, I know!), Oil press sensor, temp sender, temp cool gauge, starter and remote starter solenoid…..
…which brings me to now. Not quite a re-build so Ill call this an Engine make-over. This is what started it:


Honestly, I knew it was gonna fail. In AZ with the VIN you can go online and get the test history of your vehicle, it wasn’t pretty. Passed last year (with PO) on 3rd try. I had a big rear suspension project to do and was expecting the K5 to be down awhile, so I dove into the motor.
Already had the CS144 planning to do that swap. As with a ton of others I used this as a reference: http://sethirdgen.org/cs144.htm

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

I know a lot of you guys might not have done it this way, and I understand. My logic was that I had NO history on the motor and if Im going to pass 3 parts to get to one, I will replace the other 3 if I don’t know how old they are.
Things on the list to replace:
Cap-rotor-coil-wires and plugs (Not Bosch J) Air filter, injectors, fuel pressure reg diaphragm, TPS, MAP sensors, T-stat, Up/Lo Rad hoses, bypass hose, valve cover gaskets and in general tidy up the engine bay.
I knew I was running rich. My plugs:

Hoses:

I actually returned the rad hose, gonna try harder to find a molded one to fit. Also ordered a new T stat housing with different angle inlet.
Old filter v New:

I wrote a cheesy letter to K&N bashing the PO about how he maintained it. Spent $5 to mail it…hoping they kick me a little somethin’ somethin’
Got the plenum – runners and valve covers off:




Down to the fuel rail – injectors:


Plan was to clean and fit new O’rings which I did.. After reading about the Multecs I decided to est the $5 for O'rings and toss them. I would be pissed if I got this back together and still had issues with them so went to plan B. Ordered a set of 22lb Bosch III’s from http://www.southbayfuelinjectors.com/index.html with their promo code: tg11 J

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

I used Rock Auto for most of my parts, but shopped around for others.
After reading threads in here about removing the AIR pump I was just as confused as when I started. I decided to remove it anyway, although it may sound counterproductive to passing emissions, Ill cross that bridge if-when I have to.

At first I tossed it in the pile of trash, but decided I might want to hold on to the pump. Ill use new parts for the rest, if needed.

Pump gone:

Used brass plugs for the header bungs:

Re-loomed a sheet ton of wire:

Got bored and mocked up my TPI:

Pulley and new belt in. I know I can get a shorter belt and bypass the pulley, but I already had the new belt and just prefer the look of having the pulley there.

Old v New:

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Mocked up the CS 144 with the valve covers:


I went to the CS144 for a few reasons. AZ = AC all summer. While I don’t currently have a stereo I will put one in down the road, nothing special, but not cheap. CB, possible winch and up to 6 additional lights…on top of these:





As I was digging for the ECM, as Im going to have it prom’d for the AIR pump delete;

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

I got a wild hair up my **** to address a problem I’d been putting off. The truck has an alarm and aftermarket door locks…neither of which worked. Time to get them out along with some old speaker wire:

Some pics of the awesome work the PO did:




Some good did come out of it as I found my check engine light. The dash never worked so I wrote it off. The traced this wire back to the OBDI…

I knew the OBD was there and Im grateful somebody had the forethought to make it accessible.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

That’s pretty much where Im at today. Waiting on injectors, fuel rail O’ring kit and FPR diaphram to begin the re-assembly. So Ill toss in a few teasers of the truck:








Can you read the sign?

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

I also want to give a shout out to: tunedperformanc for taking the time to answer a lot of my questions.

dabomb6608

iTrader: (3)

Great build thread you have here! I love the blazer! I have a 85 Jimmy that was my first vehicle. Ive always wanted to put a TPI setup in it but kindve quit driving it after I got my TA running and my motorcycle. Wish mine was that rust free man!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

bjankuski

I will address the emmision test. You are running rich, the high HC and high CO mean rich. The CO being high means what is burning is rich, and leads me to believe you need to look at the O2 sensor or the tune. Scan the truck and see if your truck is running in closed loop or open loop and what the BLM's are at. From there you can eliminate some potential problems and narrow down the search.

Side note, run the air cleaner to outside air by piping it over to the fendor. Every 10 degree drop in air temp is 1% more power. In AZ that could be a lot of power!

cuisinartvette

That blazer is super clean, diggin it.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Not a whole lot of room especially with the mechanical fan and shroud to do a cai. The 90-92 firebird cai kit flipped over so its going towards the drivers side might be the way to do it but not alot of room with the rad hose alt fan and shroud.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BLUE-FIR...7bdaa7&vxp=mtr

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

I borrowed a scanner a few weeks ago:

I honestly don't remember if it was open/closed loop.....was closed?
O2 is being replaced with ACD single wire. Will upgrade to 3 wire soon, this project it just too over budget right now.

RE: air filter I have removed the shroud and now have close to 12" between filter and rad with zero obstruction below...not sure what the clearance on top is. Really don't have an open spot to re-route it to.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The acdelco afs-74 works well in headers a single wire just doesn't retain the heat in headers to become very active it needs to get to 500-600f to work properly.

dabomb6608

iTrader: (3)

Im curious what paint you used on the intake? It has a nice finish and I am needing to redo my spare intake once I do any porting/mods I decide on.

tpi84stepside

I know it's not too pretty...But I also have a maf sensor to contend with.

This is a 1984 gmc..There is a lot of room in there when you go with an electric fan. There should be a whole in the radiator support for fresh air near the evaporator tank.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Made some progress today, sort of:
Disassembled the fuel rail and pressure regulator:

O'ring kit is in (bottom), just waiting for new diaphram.
New fuel injectors arrived as well. After cleaning up the old ones and putting on new O'rings, I just didnt want to chance it that the problem wasnt resolved. I ate the $5 for the o'rings and ordred a set. 22lb Bosch III to replace the crappy oe.
New v Old here:

A little demo:
Realized that I am going to have a slight problem with the fit of the upper rad hose. The TPI350 outlet (top) is at a bad angle to get to the K5 rad. It was suggested that I try an outlet from a 76' K5 (bottom). Id really like try and find a molded hose to fit an avoid using a flex hose. PO had two diff molded hoses with a coupler.

The pile of parts is just about full. Just waiting for the FPR diaphram, fuel line and grab some bulk hosethen I can start putting back together!!

bjankuski

The data shows that you have a problem with the truck being rich and the computer is out of correction range. Your BLM's are at 108 which is as low as they go so the computer cannot remove any more fuel. I see you are changing injectors so I would rescan the truck with the new injectors and see where your BLM'S are. If they are still stuck at 108 you may need a tune if all other mechanical items are operating correctly. The ideal BLM number is 128.

Try and get cool air from outside the engine compartment into the engine, the performance change could be considerable. The air cleaner mounted behind the radiator is about the worst place you can put it. Way too much heat which can cause considerable power loss, expecially in AZ.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Thx for the info. When I get the plenum on Ill brainstorm with the filter location. Either way, with the shroud off that alone should help. Ill provide a mock up pic soon.

The shroud pretty much butted up to the end of the filter. The bottom half of the shrould did not allow much, if any, air in either. On the left you can see than the rad hose wasnt helping much either. The fuel lines (yellow) will be routed unfer the CS144....which is the way they are supposed to be right? That thing is just wedged in there, which is why it looks the way it did (see pic up top).



Probably would've been better off just wrapping some panty hose over the TB...lol

I dont know how far left (DS) Ill be able to go without interference from the rad hose. Right (PS) may be my only option. My concern is stability. I need something sturdy enough to withstand some bouncing on the trails. While it may not be ideal, I may just have to run with it in the meantime. A functional cowl hood is in the immediate future as well.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Panty hose over the air filter is That a poor mans precharger filter sock. The stock fuel lines didnt have that much of a u- shape so they ran almost on the lip of the valve cover and then clamped to the side of the accessory bracket for support. Some of the Tbi trucks has stainless braided lines you can bend the ends and they will work but converting the rails to rear feed and return looks the best and is easier to deal with.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

What paint did you use on the intake?

I have a firebird intake setup, elbow and stuff cheap if you want it. May work.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Krylon BBQ: Aluminum.

Im looking into a new rad w/dual elec fans.....probably better off that way all around.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like a plan!

I just sold a 69 c10 that had a mild 350 in it. I had a 2 row stock style aluminum radiator off ebay and a single 16" fan, it kept it cool. Used a thermostat switch from jegs, turned fan on at 200 of at 185, with a 195 thermostat it worked great on the highway and in stop and go traffic.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The 730 ecm can control dual fans and is easy to wire up. You can get the ecm conectors at mouser.com 12089660-L and use a acdelco 15-8240 relay and a pigtail PT1115. The eprom and be programed so the fans can come on and off at any desired temp stock is on at 226F but on at 200f and off at 185f works well.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hp9AsqnEgJg%3d

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

or If you want both fans to kick on at the same time you can wire it like this, the first way will add to the rpm adder and raise the idle when the a/c is requested.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

New injectors in, fuel rail on, runners on, punched out a valve cover for a breather and put them on, replaced some PCV-vac hoses too:




Starting to look like a motor again, but pretty much stuck till the diaphram shows......

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Looking good

Zane M

iTrader: (1)

Awesome Blazer.
I'll be following along as this progresses.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Can't quite seem to remember what this goes to:

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

do you have a tach ?

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

No tach...

abray1

WOW, your blazer looks like my 92 vert from almost a year ago. I got the smog delete pulley and CS144 alt and did the exact same thing you have done. I also used 0 and #4 gauge wire and got rid of the small crappy original stuff. Your lights and other electrical things will be brighter now. You will not be able to run a tall valve cover now so no roller rockers.

White93z34

iTrader: (1)

Is that wire for the EGR temp sensor?

conlinj

iTrader: (3)

It's either that or the connector for the IAT, probably the IAT

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Noob question here: does the harness with the injector leads run inside the runner or outside betweem the runner-valve cover.....or does it matter?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The harness runs on the outside of the runners, If you have enough slack to hook up the alt, tps and iac it looks better to run on the inside just zip tie it to the rail On the drivers side to keep it away from the egr .

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Possible solution to intake issue:

Trick Flow elbow, pipe the filter to the right (PS) and down?

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

What breather elements did you install to remove/clean up the PCV assembly.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Edelbrock #4413 with breather tube. Had to hone out hole for it to fit though....comes with new grommet.

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

What did you use, a unibit or was it more involved?

It looks nice, clean and simple. Probably easy to run that vent to a catch can

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Dremel, just keep test fitting till I got it snug...put a small bead of high temp rtv around inside.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I think a mustang 4.6 bellows may work, there are pipe kits on ebay for cai fairly cheap. You need cold air flow and some what sheltered filter so it won't get saturated with mud or water. other side of the ps pump bye the wheel well or maybe bye the core support if you can cut some hole with a hole saw.




https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...rage-sale.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tf...00-e/overview/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380377924763...84.m1438.l2649

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Thx, Ill look into those suggestions. Def think Im gonna have to go towards PS, avoid going over upper rad hose...

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

.

We'll see, just score this on CL, $20..... damn that was fast !

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The tpi throttle is 3x4.75 same as the gm ramjet, lt1, Lt4 cyclone and typhoon 4.3, Its just a guess on the 4.6 2005-2010 Looks like it might work

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

What are the chances that right after you mention the 4.6 boot, I find one on CL? Not only that the guy is literaly 2mi from me and says come get it now....

The 4.6 opening is slightly bigger, the clamp is maxed out, but I dont think its going anywhere.

We may have a winner here:

Orientated as it woul dbe on the truck...

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

the ribs on the tb inlet help with the seal, If your worried about the fit and it looks like it will work grind off or cut off the clamp locating piece and use the clap from the K&N. I can't believe you found one so fast I hope it fits the build.

TPI_BLAZER

iTrader: (1)

Not quite...still getting interference from the fan...both ways:


Im just gonna run with it the way it is for now:



...and try to get more air into the engine bay. Honestly not sure what these are for, but I took them out anyway as it seems like it would help:



Did same on pass side.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

That sucks , looks like a good spot on the pass side to build a bracket to hold a cone shaped filter after you go with electric fans.