doors........are power and non power doors the same?
#1
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
doors........are power and non power doors the same?
as the subject says. are they the same? have the same holes to mount all my electric stuff in it. i found one good door but it is manual door. will all work w/o modification? or is slight modification required? thanks for any help
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Car: 91' TRANS AM Modified
Engine: Classified
Transmission: Auto with Overdrive
DOORS
IT CAN WORK AND NO MODIFICATIONS ARE NEEDED UNLESS YOU WANT TO CHANGE THE NEW DOOR IT SELF TO ELECTRIC.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
yes i do want to put all my electric stuff in it. ie window motor & lock motor. i hate manual doors. as long i can drill new holes i'm good to go.
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
My original '86 doors had rusted to hell, on the inside edge where the inner panel meets the outer panel. So the door looked great from the outside, but it was really in two pieces underneath. I took both doors off my '84 parts car, with manual windows. Then I swapped my electric windows into the '84 door. It's a pain, you gotta swap regulators, but yeah, it can be done.
Door internals changed between '84 and '85, but if you swap all the internals in, you'll be fine. Internals changed, but the holes in the door frames never did. Tip: I used short bolts & nuts & lockwashers to attach the regulators to the doors. Couldn't find the special rivets anywhere.
I tried at first using normal thin rivets and rivet washers, but the regulators moved because the thin rivets didn't fill the hole. Know what I mean? When the window went all the way up, the regulator twisted a bit, and the rivet would slide inside the mouting hole. After a few years of this, the rivets snapped, and left me with a sideways window! So some thick, but short, bolts did the trick.
Door internals changed between '84 and '85, but if you swap all the internals in, you'll be fine. Internals changed, but the holes in the door frames never did. Tip: I used short bolts & nuts & lockwashers to attach the regulators to the doors. Couldn't find the special rivets anywhere.
I tried at first using normal thin rivets and rivet washers, but the regulators moved because the thin rivets didn't fill the hole. Know what I mean? When the window went all the way up, the regulator twisted a bit, and the rivet would slide inside the mouting hole. After a few years of this, the rivets snapped, and left me with a sideways window! So some thick, but short, bolts did the trick.
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there are two sets of holes, one for power and other for manual regs, 1/4" bolts will retain the regs, thats is what diameter the rivets are supoposed to be,
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Car: FBODYS
Engine: ALWAYS 8'S
Transmission: ALWAYS MENTAL
Axle/Gears: RUSTY AND BRAND NEW
Any auto glass shop that replaces door windows will have the rivits. I got mine at Safelite Autoglass I think they are nationwide. If you take beer with you you often get them for free. You will also need a large shank rivet tool. This can be picked up at Harbor Freight for about 16 bucks. Have fun and dont get in a hurry to get it done, It takes allot of time
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