For everyone who thinks they can use "bondo" for a urethane cover repair...
#1
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For everyone who thinks they can use "bondo" for a urethane cover repair...
It's not a thirdgen, but this car came in today, with paint shattered and peeling.
TO everyone who says, "I used it, and it worked fine for me!!" It WILL fail.
note the splits beginning in the creases...
TO everyone who says, "I used it, and it worked fine for me!!" It WILL fail.
note the splits beginning in the creases...
#5
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It won't fail if you do it right. Bondo doesn't crack and fail unless it's too thick, not adhered to the panel properly, or if there was a hard enough impact to cause the bumper to flex considerably.
I bring this up because of the recent hot topics on this forum from people asking this question.
Working on photos... am on dial up and would not load...
Last edited by KEVIN G.; 09-13-2004 at 10:53 AM.
#7
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Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
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Sorry, completely untrue, It Will fail, I've seen enough and done enough bumper repairs, The substrates are not compatible. the ONLY way to repair a cover is with the proper materials.
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#8
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The bondo in that pic looks a foot thick.
My IROC was painted 4 or 5 years ago and still looks 100% perfect. It's got a very thin coat of filler on the lower valance right at the tip where it was gouged from scraping.
My GTA has some too, and that's going on 3 years. It still looks 100% perfect.
My friend's 99 SS has a skim coat of filler here and there around the bumpers of his car. That's been 3 or 4 years. Still looks perfect.
If you're having problems, you're not doing it right.
The substrate compatibility shouldn't be an issue if there's something between the two materials.
I wouldn't put bondo directly over a bare urethane bumper, but between my father and I, we've used it to smooth out imperfections in spider-webbing or over urethane repairs hundreds of times and haven't had a single failure.
My IROC was painted 4 or 5 years ago and still looks 100% perfect. It's got a very thin coat of filler on the lower valance right at the tip where it was gouged from scraping.
My GTA has some too, and that's going on 3 years. It still looks 100% perfect.
My friend's 99 SS has a skim coat of filler here and there around the bumpers of his car. That's been 3 or 4 years. Still looks perfect.
If you're having problems, you're not doing it right.
The substrate compatibility shouldn't be an issue if there's something between the two materials.
I wouldn't put bondo directly over a bare urethane bumper, but between my father and I, we've used it to smooth out imperfections in spider-webbing or over urethane repairs hundreds of times and haven't had a single failure.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
im just going to point out that every modern car made in the last 10 years has plastic front and rear bumpers... some even have the whole car that way.
they all bondo just fine.
the above pic is how NOT to do it. if theres a "edge" to your bondo, its way too thick to begin with.
they all bondo just fine.
the above pic is how NOT to do it. if theres a "edge" to your bondo, its way too thick to begin with.
#10
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
btw, i hate bondo as much as most of you
the word alone makes me think of ******* hicks
but sometimes, it is the correct, or only tool.
btw, what do you believe the "proper" materials are?
for a tear, i agree with some other stuff, but im very curious how you intend to fix a mildly pitted lower section.
edit: my grammar sucks.
the word alone makes me think of ******* hicks
but sometimes, it is the correct, or only tool.
btw, what do you believe the "proper" materials are?
for a tear, i agree with some other stuff, but im very curious how you intend to fix a mildly pitted lower section.
edit: my grammar sucks.
#11
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btw, what do you believe the "proper" materials are?
for a tear, i agree with some other stuff, but im very curious how you intend to fix a mildly pitted lower section
The bondo in that pic looks a foot thick.
If you're having problems, you're not doing it right.
All urethane bumpers have a mold release agent that inhibits the ability for polyester to adhere...Hell, it's tough enough sometimes to get the correct stuff to stick. And we all know it will not flex(polyester)... So why use an inferior product for a repair that you would like to last?
#12
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the word alone makes me think of ******* hicks
Many Many custom guys use bondo. I agree, if it's put on like 1 inch thick or whatever...it is VERY VERY *******ish, but if it's done with some common sense, it's a great product and very few people have any problems with it
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by 84customZ28
go ahead and tell that to alot of the custom hot rod guys
go ahead and tell that to alot of the custom hot rod guys
and they agree.
the word alone has a negitive connotation simply because of the number of people using it improperly.
thats why we dont talk about mudding our cars, even though its done. because no one wants to bring it up.
i suppose the root of the problem is in your second part of your reply
Originally posted by 84customZ28
...if it's done with some common sense.....
...if it's done with some common sense.....
kevin G, there shouldnt be any mold release on it, peroid. regardless of what you use.
#14
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kevin G, there shouldnt be any mold release on it, peroid. regardless of what you use.
apparently you misunderstood...ALL plastic parts are manufactured with a mold release agent...It allows them to uh...well...release them from the mold!!!!
the word alone has a negitive connotation simply because of the number of people using it improperly
If used in a proper repair, on good steel, it wont fail.
I tell all my customers this when they come in screamin' "NO BONDO" "NO BONDO"!!!! It will hold up 100 percent, unless it gets damaged there again.
We actually offer a lifetime guarantee on our workmanship. I know my guys are doing each job correctly and I can back it up.
Last edited by KEVIN G.; 09-13-2004 at 03:18 PM.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by KEVIN G.
what do you mean?,
apparently you misunderstood...ALL plastic parts are manufactured with a mold release agent...It allows them to uh...well...release them from the mold!!!!
what do you mean?,
apparently you misunderstood...ALL plastic parts are manufactured with a mold release agent...It allows them to uh...well...release them from the mold!!!!
its not internal
and it must be removed from the part before its initally painted.
so while i wont debate the adhesiveness of bondo to the plastic, i can definitively tell you that its not the release agent causing the problem.
#16
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Plastic parts are pourous and, as such, will wick the mold release and while yes it must be removed at the time of repair, anytime you grind the part more will weep out and cause problems. cleaning is essential.
A few years ago, GM had a problem with the Lumina's and Monte Carlo's and their own paint wouldn't stick...
Research was done by the paint companies and it was discovered that all these covers were manufactured in one plant and sprayed with a black Elpo, that was never fully cured... Each cover that was replaced in an accident had to be washed, cooked in our booth, re-washed, and electrostatic washed,(basically a denatured alcohol), prepped, washed again, then sealed and shot.
A few years ago, GM had a problem with the Lumina's and Monte Carlo's and their own paint wouldn't stick...
Research was done by the paint companies and it was discovered that all these covers were manufactured in one plant and sprayed with a black Elpo, that was never fully cured... Each cover that was replaced in an accident had to be washed, cooked in our booth, re-washed, and electrostatic washed,(basically a denatured alcohol), prepped, washed again, then sealed and shot.
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Car: 1991 Z28 clone & 1985 Fiero 2M4
Engine: 305 TPI (In Progress, Camaro) & 2.5L 4 cyl soon to be 3.4
Transmission: 700R4 (Camaro) & Isuzu 5 speed (Fiero)
Ive used bondo a number of times, hell i used it to hold my broken headliner together on my fiero. But yes I have never used it on a bumper cover.
Dont plan on it, bumper covers are usually not too terribly expensive.
We may all despise bondo, but its a kinda ductape of the automotive world. Body work really couldnt exist without bondo, unless you always buy new panels.
Dont plan on it, bumper covers are usually not too terribly expensive.
We may all despise bondo, but its a kinda ductape of the automotive world. Body work really couldnt exist without bondo, unless you always buy new panels.
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Two part epoxy plastic repair material
Gilley
#20
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unless you always buy new panels.
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Rebuilt and modified 350
Transmission: rebuilt T-5
Sorry to go a little off topic here, but the Mustang Saleen in 2 Fast 2 Furious that was crushed was a 95 V6 Rustang with LOTS of bondo. FYI
#22
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Yes, it is sad to say that GM is not on top of it's game when it comes to shipping out replacement parts. How many times have we seen a damaged panel come out of a perfect box?? Worse than that is the rash from rubbing the cardboard box. They are just now coming to realize they had a fisheye problem in their ELPO. Ford and chrysler both put a sheet of bubble wrap on the face of their parts where they will contact the box, and they always arrive in much better shape than GM.
On a side note, Evercoat makes a flexible glazing putty for repairing bumper covers, the trick is to try and not sand through the paint and expose the bumper substrate. And not all GM bumpers are cheap, either....Monte Carlo SS with the "High sport" appearance package, bumpers list for more than $1000 each.
On a side note, Evercoat makes a flexible glazing putty for repairing bumper covers, the trick is to try and not sand through the paint and expose the bumper substrate. And not all GM bumpers are cheap, either....Monte Carlo SS with the "High sport" appearance package, bumpers list for more than $1000 each.
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unfourtunatly for me $585 isn't cheap for a new bumper cover so repairing the cracks in mine is the way to go. When you say using bondo correctly does that mean thin layers, cleaning the metal area really well, allowing more then enough time for it to dry before working on it and primering it before painting? I'm just wondering because I've already repaired 1 rust spot with bondo, just bondo'ed another that needs to be sanded and painted and plan on doing quite a few more and would like the repairs to last.
#24
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We're talking about two different things here, your first part we're talking about PLASTIC bumper covers...
you're right the prices are outrageous , Aftermarket is another route, and not nearly as much of a problem in plastic parts as in sheetmetal.
Second...Yes polyester is OK when used in the context that it was made. FOR METAL!!! Yes to all of the above on this question.
$585 isn't cheap for a new bumper cover so repairing the cracks in mine is the way to go.
When you say using bondo correctly does that mean thin layers, cleaning the metal area really well, allowing more then enough time for it to dry before working on it and primering it before painting?
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