Body General body information and techniques for restoration, repairs, and modifications.

Too good to be true????

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-16-2006, 11:25 PM
  #1  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
subliminal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Port St Lucie, FL
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Too good to be true????

I was looking in my JC whitney catalog yesterday and saw an ad for a device that is supposed to prevent rust. It is supposed to work by running some kinda current through the cars entire body, Says it uses a 12v battery to feed a vehicle ateady flow of free electrons to interrupt the corrosion process. Im not too familiar with the way metal works so maybe someone a little more experienced came chime in? Would this really work or is it just a gimmick?
Old 01-16-2006, 11:58 PM
  #2  
Supreme Member
 
Toehead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: North Central Mass.
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: Megasquirted TPI
Transmission: Transgo 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Hmmm. Sounds a bit shady to me. electrolytic corrosion certianly DOES occur, especially in cooling systems that arent propoerly grounded/ set up. The flow of current literally eats away the metal. This is also a problem in the fuel systems of cars that run on alcohol... I dont know about electrolytic corrosion throughout the entire body... What parts would be the cathodes/anodes, on a body that is made up of the same material, welded together and (hopefully) properly grounded?

If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is... I would like to see a study of this product in action though...
Old 01-17-2006, 07:28 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
jimp2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Albany, NY Area
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
I've seen then installed on a bunch of cars. I couldn't tell you form personal experience, but the cars that I saw didnt have much rust.
Old 01-18-2006, 02:00 AM
  #4  
Member
 
Crayz9000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sin City
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: '86 IROC, '87 Volvo 240, '09 Malibu
Engine: LB9 5.0L
Transmission: 700R4
Your car already has a steady 12V current flow. It's called the charging circuit, and it uses the body sheet metal.

Cleaning up all your body grounds will almost certainly fix ground-related problems better than installing a battery in a questionable manner.
Old 01-18-2006, 07:09 AM
  #5  
TGO Supporter

iTrader: (2)
 
Jim85IROC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Readsboro, VT
Posts: 13,574
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Those things are a crock. They don't work. Like already mentioned, there are already plenty of electrons running through your car's body.

My father's 94 F150 had one of those widgets, but it didn't stop all of the air conditioning and power steering lines from rotting off the truck within 70k miles. His oil pan wasn't far behind either.
Old 01-18-2006, 08:51 AM
  #6  
Member

 
Epro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 95 Camaro Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E w/ shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
Those things are a crock. They don't work. Like already mentioned, there are already plenty of electrons running through your car's body.

My father's 94 F150 had one of those widgets, but it didn't stop all of the air conditioning and power steering lines from rotting off the truck within 70k miles. His oil pan wasn't far behind either.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it is supposed to be used in conjunction with undercoating.

http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/
Old 01-18-2006, 09:24 AM
  #7  
TGO Supporter

iTrader: (2)
 
Jim85IROC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Readsboro, VT
Posts: 13,574
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
it's marketing bull****. Undercoating will have absolutely no effect on the electrical properties of the steel. If this gimmick worked, it would do it with or without undercoating.
Old 01-18-2006, 10:55 AM
  #8  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
subliminal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Port St Lucie, FL
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info, I wont be buying one
Old 01-18-2006, 11:21 AM
  #9  
Supreme Member

 
85_ZED28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: St Catharines, ON
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I think there is more to them than just passing current through the car. I remember something about capacitive pads or someting??? Heres a link

http://www.counteractrust.com/capacitive%20coupling.htm

http://www.counteractrust.com/

Don't know if it works though
Old 01-18-2006, 01:44 PM
  #10  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
subliminal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Port St Lucie, FL
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I wish i could get a hold of one and test it out on a bare piece of sheet metal.
Old 01-18-2006, 03:01 PM
  #11  
TGO Supporter

iTrader: (2)
 
Jim85IROC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Readsboro, VT
Posts: 13,574
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by 85_ZED28
I think there is more to them than just passing current through the car. I remember something about capacitive pads or someting??? Heres a link

http://www.counteractrust.com/capacitive%20coupling.htm

http://www.counteractrust.com/

Don't know if it works though
What a complete crock. Capacitive coupling, a term they misuse, is nothing more than inserting an inline capacitor (and usually a shunt resistor) to filter DC out of an AC signal. It has no effect on polarization of electrons or any of the other nonsense they spew on that site.

That site's explanation is pure bullsh*t with a little bit of incorrect technical jargon sprinkled in to intentionally fool those who don't know better.
Old 01-18-2006, 03:54 PM
  #12  
TGO Supporter

 
deadbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: So.west IN
Posts: 6,775
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 23 Posts
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
But, what do you really think about them Jim ?
Old 01-18-2006, 05:04 PM
  #13  
Member
 
Maverick_82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Quincy, Illinois
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: '82 trans am (w/ t-top)
Engine: 5.0L 305 H
Transmission: automatic
por15, ospho, there r a number of products that r suppose to treat or prevent rust
Old 01-18-2006, 09:08 PM
  #14  
Member
 
hmmurdock_00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Earth, USA, Ga, Thomson
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 5.0 LG4
Transmission: 700-R4 Auto
I once had to do a presentation in school on the wonderful world of corrosion, and like Jim this sounds like BS.

The usual way to prevent rust is to take a wire attached to one metal lets say steel, and run it to a more corrosive prone metal like iron, or something else. This will cause electrons to pass to the anode (sacrafical metal) being the iron or more corrosive material. Therefore prevent or slowing the rust of the other metal called the cathode.

They use this on large tanks buried under the ground, namely gas stations.

They are other ways, but if passing electricity through a metal, then are cars should never rust, they have approx 12 volts when turned off, and i think 13.5 when charging(correct me if i am wrong here).

I believe stainless steel will start oxidsing at large amounts of voltage. Seeing how we don't drive DeLoreans this isn't a problem. If we did, then we wouldn't be having this therad at all.:P

Corrosion or oxidation is the lost of electrons of a metal. This is why copper or lead will oxide quicker when exposed to a current than, without, but still happens.
Old 01-18-2006, 09:34 PM
  #15  
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
 
coolram62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Beaufort South Carolina
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
I'm a maintanance electrician at a MCAS.One of my responsibilties is the cathodic protection system for the underground fuel tanks,fuel lines and gas lines.Like Toehead,Jims85 and hmmurdock point out the only way to slow down corrosion,there's not way to completly eliminate it,is thru the use of cathodic protection which does use DC current to excite the anode beds(think of these as being sacrificial part of the process)but that's the extent that electricity plays in the process.The fuel lines and tanks also have anti-corrosive coatings applied.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
okfoz
History / Originality
195
03-09-2017 02:35 PM
CarGuyDennis
Organized Drag Racing and Autocross
137
12-06-2016 11:02 PM
theurge
TPI
7
08-21-2015 12:46 PM
Dialed_In
Firebirds for Sale
2
08-20-2015 01:45 PM



Quick Reply: Too good to be true????



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:53 PM.