Remote control for rear hatch.
#1
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Remote control for rear hatch.
Long story short. I got tired of fumbling with keys and tired of reaching in the car to hit the remote button, only to find that when I get to the back, the hatch is closing. I have weak struts on the hatch because a short time ago I put real strong struts on so when I hit the release button in the car, the hatch would open by itself. However a very old wise 3rd gen owner told me that its possible to crack the glass. So, I got a nice remote door unlocker off Amazon and wired it to unlock the hatch. It works perfect, not really a hard job. See photo attached for the components and X marks the spot where the wires are connected. I love it.
Louis
Louis
Last edited by Ct1987; 09-10-2021 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Spelling
#3
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Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
Thanks,
Louis
Last edited by Ct1987; 09-11-2021 at 08:14 AM.
#4
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Car: 89' Firebird
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Axle/Gears: Whatever came stock!
Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
Hi, here is the link to amazon. Its only 18 dollars and works great. you do not want remote start, you need only remote door opener. The kit does not come with the relay. You have to get one.
Thanks,
Louis
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099MFVVZZ...roduct_details
Thanks,
Louis
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099MFVVZZ...roduct_details
thanks!
Would you be able to explai nwhat wires you used from the kit that were spliced into the stock wiriing?
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Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
Pretty cool! Who among us hasn't experienced the hatch closing before you can crawl out of the seat, get off the ground, and make your way back to the hatch! I've learned to be standing up before I push the button, but digging this gizmo!
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1989karr (09-16-2021)
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Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
But I'd love a reliable remote, so that I don't have to CAREFULLY put the key in the key cylinder and cradle all the other keys so that I do not scratch the plastic tail lens surround.
#10
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Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
Procedure for installing remote rear hatch opener.
If you are using the same Keyless Entry System, model LB-408 that I am, here is the wiring I used.
The plug will have 10 wires coming out of it. We are going to use only 3. Number 7 is negative (ground) and number 8 is positive (12 volts). There is a short wire coming from the bottom harness in the car that is white with a red stripe. This is constant 12 volts, positive. The red and white wire has a connector that connects to a smaller wire; this is where we connect our positive lead. Use the smaller wire.
I installed a relay to handle the voltage. However I have found that its not needed, so in this description, we are not using the relay.
Connect the wire from #8 red to the short wire coming from the large red/white wire. Connect #7, black to one of the already ground screws that are being used by the hatch release ground.
Connect the brown wire from #9 to the wire going to the actual hatch release. The wire is marked as going to the parking light. This is the only wire from the controller that gives you pure 12 volts when the remote button is pushed. Use common procedures for attaching wires, use solder. Tidy up loose wires with zip ties.
I wish you well. Louis
If you are using the same Keyless Entry System, model LB-408 that I am, here is the wiring I used.
The plug will have 10 wires coming out of it. We are going to use only 3. Number 7 is negative (ground) and number 8 is positive (12 volts). There is a short wire coming from the bottom harness in the car that is white with a red stripe. This is constant 12 volts, positive. The red and white wire has a connector that connects to a smaller wire; this is where we connect our positive lead. Use the smaller wire.
I installed a relay to handle the voltage. However I have found that its not needed, so in this description, we are not using the relay.
Connect the wire from #8 red to the short wire coming from the large red/white wire. Connect #7, black to one of the already ground screws that are being used by the hatch release ground.
Connect the brown wire from #9 to the wire going to the actual hatch release. The wire is marked as going to the parking light. This is the only wire from the controller that gives you pure 12 volts when the remote button is pushed. Use common procedures for attaching wires, use solder. Tidy up loose wires with zip ties.
I wish you well. Louis
Last edited by Ct1987; 09-19-2021 at 09:12 AM. Reason: spell
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1989karr (09-20-2021)
#11
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Car: 89' Firebird
Engine: 3.4L V-6
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Whatever came stock!
Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
Procedure for installing remote rear hatch opener.
If you are using the same Keyless Entry System, model LB-408 that I am, here is the wiring I used.
The plug will have 10 wires coming out of it. We are going to use only 3. Number 7 is negative (ground) and number 8 is positive (12 volts). There is a short wire coming from the bottom harness in the car that is white with a red stripe. This is constant 12 volts, positive. The red and white wire has a connector that connects to a smaller wire; this is where we connect our positive lead. Use the smaller wire.
I installed a relay to handle the voltage. However I have found that its not needed, so in this description, we are not using the relay.
Connect the wire from #8 red to the short wire coming from the large red/white wire. Connect #7, black to one of the already ground screws that are being used by the hatch release ground.
Connect the brown wire from #9 to the wire going to the actual hatch release. The wire is marked as going to the parking light. This is the only wire from the controller that gives you pure 12 volts when the remote button is pushed. Use common procedures for attaching wires, use solder. Tidy up loose wires with zip ties.
I wish you well. Louis
If you are using the same Keyless Entry System, model LB-408 that I am, here is the wiring I used.
The plug will have 10 wires coming out of it. We are going to use only 3. Number 7 is negative (ground) and number 8 is positive (12 volts). There is a short wire coming from the bottom harness in the car that is white with a red stripe. This is constant 12 volts, positive. The red and white wire has a connector that connects to a smaller wire; this is where we connect our positive lead. Use the smaller wire.
I installed a relay to handle the voltage. However I have found that its not needed, so in this description, we are not using the relay.
Connect the wire from #8 red to the short wire coming from the large red/white wire. Connect #7, black to one of the already ground screws that are being used by the hatch release ground.
Connect the brown wire from #9 to the wire going to the actual hatch release. The wire is marked as going to the parking light. This is the only wire from the controller that gives you pure 12 volts when the remote button is pushed. Use common procedures for attaching wires, use solder. Tidy up loose wires with zip ties.
I wish you well. Louis
thanks! super awesome!!
#12
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Thread Starter
Re: Remote control for rear hatch.
The spoiler doesn't go far enough forward and it's looking look I will have to run the brake light wires across the hatch seal to get inside the car. How does the factory wire the brake light wires from the light to the cabin. I already have the wiring run figured out from the car to the hatch. Any help will be greatly appreciated
Hi, I am afraid that I dont understand what you are trying to do and say.
Louis
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1989karr (09-23-2021)
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