PhLaXuS

I plumbed my new Wilwood PV & master cylinder in today according to this article:

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/propvalve.shtml

and have a few statments/questions:

1.) Everywhere on the internet I read about forming inverted double flare joints stated that prep work will make or break the flare in the end. It's easy to go through the motions, but apparently most people will fry out a few fittings before getting the hang of it.

I used that neat $0.99 double pack of ignition points files from Autozone and some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (dipped in brake fluid) to prepare the hard line for flaring. After cuttingthe old bubble flare off, I squared the end with the points file and reamed the inside edge with a phillips screwdriver. Then I squared the top again to remove the flash left from the screwdriver. Then I chamfered the outside edges and continued these steps at least twice on each joint until I could feel no sharp edges. At this point, I dipped my 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper in some old brake fluid and went at the end of the hard line in a cylinder honing-type action and then sanded flat on the end of the tube (where I filed it down). This left a nice smooth finish.

Each time I flared one of my five joints, it would invariable start kinda crooked as my rental tool was not quite square. Taking this into account, I REALLY REALLY cranked down on the flaring yoke. I mean...beyond what was normal or called for. I cranked the living dead girl out of the flare tool. :^) Then I removed the flaring adapter and went even crazier finishing the double flare with just the yoke.

I bench bled the new master cylinder and hooked everything together. NOTE: I followed the article above except instead of getting more adapters to go from the Wilwood 1/8 NPT fitting, I went to Advance Auto and grabbed some "1/8-27 NPT to 1/4 female IF" fittings and then discarded the Wilwood "NPT to 3/16" fittings. I threw it all together and filled the master cylinder the rest of the way with fluid and finished everything else off.

2.) My question is: When I went to perform my pressure test where I slammed the brake pedal to infinity, there were no leaks, but a very, very small amount of brake fluid showed up around the 1/8 NPT fitting at the Wilwood PV. The adapters from Wilwood had a sealer around the threads and I put the new Advance Auto adapters in with bare threads (but cranked them down decently).

Will this teeny bit of brake fluid present a problem later or does everyone think this is cool and/or will go away?

PhLaXuS

Anyone?...number 2 below?

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I don't think its a really good idea myself. I had a friend with a brake fluid leak that eventually went away but not my car. I'm going to use teflon tape on the lines to my rear when I install it just for added security.

RTFC

DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON BRAKE FLUID CONNECTIONS!

Brake fluid with dissolve telfon tape. It needs to be a liquid teflon thread sealant applied to the threads. Same with fuel lines.

PhLaXuS

Ahaa!...that's why I ask these things. Thanks!

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Good thing I had not done my lines yet then. Sorry about the wrong information.

84406

I find that when the flare tool doesn't want to sit square you can often help it by moving the tool base. Also on the final flare I find that not turning down as tight as you can will make a nicer flare. The ones where you tighten as much as possible tend to flatten the flare and leave no crush room. I realize if the leak is in the npt then the flare has nothing to do with that and the liquid sealer is what is needed.