dps8315

This is the original post, please scroll down for my current problems

System Components:

2 12" MTX Thunder 6000 (250 W RMS each)
MTX Thunder 8302 (150x2 @ 2 Ohms)
1 Rockford Fosgate Digital 1Farad Capacitor

I purchased a Rockford Fosgate Dual Amp Wiring Kit Thinking that I might use another amp to power the subs seperately, at some point.

A) Should I put the capacitor before or after my distribution block? Assume I'm using two amps...

B) ***How does the Remote Turn-On lead work with the cap?

Do I run the remote turn on lead from the head unit, to the amp, then to the capacitor? That's how the installation instructions make it sound.

OR

Do I run the remote turn on lead first to the capacitor, then to the amp...

Option 1 shows power wire to distribution block, single wire to capacitor, I assume wrapped around the capacitor terminal, and then on to the amp.



Option 2 shows power wire to distribution block, one wire to cap., one wire to amp.... but then when the amp hits low, will it actually draw power from the cap?

Ragnarok_Tyr

Do NOT run your remote turn-on lead to your cap. A capacitor is for storing power during off-peak periods of power usage, while your turn-on lead is just there to 'tell' your amps that the radio is on. One has nothing to do with the other. Typically, you want to wire your cap as close as possible to your amp. Since your bass amp is most likely the one which will be drawing the most power, you should mount it after the dist. block, right before your bass amp. You can place it before the block, but it will lose some of it's effectiveness.

9177

Since its a digital cap you need to run the remote turn-on from the headunit to the remote turn-on on the cap its just like an amp. If the remote turn-on is not connected the cap will still work but the digital display will not come on. and it doesn't matter what order you go in as far as what hooks up first just as long as they get hooked up.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

In terms of placement, you want it as close to the sub amp as possible. I've got my cap wired to my distribution block, which results in 3 to 4 feet of wire between the cap and my sub amp. My cap doesn't do a damn thing. You want no more than 12" of wire between the cap and sub amp.

If you're running 2 sub amps, then a pair of smaller caps, one for each amp, is your best option. If you can't do that, then you just need to attempt to minimize wiring length.

dps8315

I've got everything wired, when I put my face on my HU, my digital capacitor lights up and shows 12.2V or 14.0 when the car is actually running, my speakers play fine, but I have no sound from my subs...

***I have a RED light on my AMP***

I can't find anything that tells specifically what my problem probably is, so I'm a little concerned.

The amp specs are:

Peak (Dynamic) Power (measured at 14.4 Volts DC):
120 Watts x 2 into 4 Ohms
212 Watts x 2 into 2 Ohms
425 Watts bridged into 4 Ohms

I've got two speaker level outputs on the amp, with the right positive and left negative marked underneath saying "bridged"

In my enclosure, I have 2 12 MTX Thunder 6000s, I ordered them with a pre-fab box, everything was wired. Of course, I switched the boxes out so that I could fit these in my trunk.

There's a black wire that runs from one side of the speaker, on say, the bottom of the coil, to the other side of the speaker, still on the bottom of the coil - it doesn't cross over. One of the terminals on the sub is red, one is black, so I'm assuming its wired correctly.

I have both subs wired into a single circular terminal to get to the outside of the box, both red wires lead to the red terminal, both black to the black,

But I've got a RED light on my amp nonetheless, any suggestions appreciated.

TomP

Are you bridging the subs? Or do they each get their own channel to the amp?

dps8315

I actually tried to run the subs bridged first, then I tried to run off just one channel thinking that I had messed that up somehow; neither worked.

I think that my problem is the connection from the amp to the terminals on the enclosure, I tried to use a spade connector for some reason and it probably does not provide sufficient contact.

When I fix that, the only way I can see to wire the subs is to bridge them, otherwise I'd be running both subs off of one channel since I only have one terminal on the enclosure.

Do most enclosures have two terminals, one for each sub?

James

9177

Try seeing if the amp will power up correctly if you leave the subs disconnected.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

That amp isn't putting nearly enough strain on your electrical system to need a cap.

dps8315

Jim,

I know the amp is weak, the plan is to use it for some 3-ways when I get the money for a Class-D, but right now I just need a little bit of bass.

9177,

This morning I did the following:

disconnected the speaker wires from the amp to the enclosure. Same red light.

Connected the left channel of the amp directly to a sub, red light, still no sound.

Left the left channel connected to the sub, disconnected the capacitor from my configuration, so now I've just got an amp, wired to one sub, still a red light..

I'm pretty sure my remote turn-on lead is fine since my digital capacitor starts reading as soon as I turn the stereo on.

J-

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't making the comment just to criticize your amp. I guess I should have explained further. I'm more or less questioning your need for a cap. Unless you've got alternator charging problems, you should never need a cap for that amplifier. Since most people only install caps because they see their headlights dimming, I was wondering if you might have had the same situation. If so, you may have another problem that needs to be addressed.

dps8315

I probably should've explained myself better, I'm the one looking for help after all...

The reason I installed the cap at this point is because I plan to be running this amp and a more powerful class D at the same time, and I wanted to get the configuration ready to make installing the class D easy when I have the money for it.

The cap really isn't the issue I'm havin right now tho, my friekin amp doesn't seem to work at all...

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

that probably won't change with the class D amp. The joy of class D is that they are very efficient, so the power consumption is minimal.

9177

If your going into protect mode without having the sub hooked up then most likly there is something wrong with the amp.