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Old 03-15-2001, 12:18 AM   #1
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installing Viper alarm you guys who know your alarm stuff in here--->

hi guys just a few questions for ya
ok 91B4C see sig
I got an older model Viper for free and she has all the options minus that talking crap. I mean duel zone radar, glass brakeage sensor, duel stage shock sensor, starter kill,.......
now for the fun part
1.whats the best locations in my car for all the sensors?
2. its got starter kill and I have VATS can I use this relay to disable another system in the car. if so which is the best?
3. I have two different shock sensors could I use both? If so how can this be done? or would it be any better.
ahh thats all I can think of right now if I think up any more then I will post em thanks guys


------------------
Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her
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Old 03-15-2001, 02:58 AM   #2
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The shock sensor is usually mounted solidly to the steering column. Do not use velcro or double sided tape because you won't get the solid connection to the car. I used to plastic zip ties and tightened them as much as I could.

I mounted my radar sensor inside the center console between the shifter and the storage compartment.

I don't have a glass breakage sensor so I don't know ...

I don't know if there would be any benifit to using more than one shock sensor. It would be connected just like the other sensors. The "brain" doesn't know what kinds of sensors are connected to it. Basically you connect the sensors in parallel. My alarm came with a shock sensor and my radar sensor came with an adapter harness to allow the connection without having to splice the wires. You may be able to get a similar harness.
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Old 03-15-2001, 12:02 PM   #3
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Location: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
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Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3, yes...LO3
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond

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Glass breakage and shock sensors are the same thing. Once you mount it, adjust the sensitivity and walk around the car, lightly thumping it in various places to see if it triggers. I suggest you disable the warning stage of the dual stage setup. Its a good way for someone to kill the battery on your car.

------------------
92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake
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Old 03-15-2001, 12:05 PM   #4
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Location: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
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Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3, yes...LO3
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Also, if your car has VATS...you don't need to hook up the starter kill relay
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Old 03-15-2001, 02:29 PM   #5
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ya I know that the vats kills the starter and FI but is there any other system(Fuel Pump. ignition....) that would be good to have the relay kill.

and As for where I would put the shock sensor I would think that it would work better in some places then in others
and the glass sensor has a mic on it I would thin that this sensor would benifit from a good position.

Belker How did you adjust the radars fields with the console in place
------------------
Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her

[This message has been edited by 91B4C jacob (edited March 15, 2001).]
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Old 03-16-2001, 02:19 AM   #6
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I left off the shiftcover/ashtray plate to do my adjustments. This cover is very easy to remove or reinstall. However, I admit I'm gonna have to take it off again to make an adjustment 'cause I'm not happy with the current settings.
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Old 03-17-2001, 02:19 AM   #7
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ok its going in tomarow do any of you guys have any ideas about what to use the starter kill relay for. any little thing just to make the car even more safe. or should I just forget about it

------------------
Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her
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Old 03-17-2001, 10:54 PM   #8
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try putting the starter kill relay in like the brake somehow if you have an auto cause you cant shift outa park without brake or the gas..cant go without gas

if u got a stick then id say gas or somehow clutch.....anything to make your car immovable...if u just go like brake fluid then they will start and not stop...no good
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Old 03-18-2001, 04:49 AM   #9
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Do 90-up thirdgen's need brake pedal pressure to shift out of park? My 89 doesnt. I used my starter kill relay (in addition to killing my starter)to deactivate my hatch release button while the alarm is armed.

------------------
1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
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Old 03-20-2001, 01:26 PM   #10
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do not use the starter kill, its useless for anything. do not use two shock sensors. if you want two stages of shock use the dual stage shock sensor. (this also requires the alarm be compatible with the dual stage shock. some of the older 300's are not) i would highly recommend installing a hood pin switch, its up to you which zone you hook it to, you can use the door pin lead if you like. another recommended option is the keyless entry, and trunk release. (only an easy install if you have power locks, and the button that releases the trunk from the inside) last but not least, do not install the horn where it can be easily disabled from the bottom of the car, and use wire loom for everything in the engine compartment. if you can tell its alarm related, so can a thief, and he will cut it. i really hope you have the instructions, and all the harnesses with the viper, if not your screwed!
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Old 03-21-2001, 03:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 91B4C jacob:
(..snip..) I got an older model Viper for free and she has all the options minus that talking crap. (..snip..)</font>
Talking crap?! I'm offended!! Hey, I don't care if people look & laugh, or if they look & are impressed- as long as they look when my alarm goes off!

Anyway, as to your questions, you should wire the starter kill relay so it intercepts your neutral-safety-switch on your clutch. This would give the effect of the theif not pushing the clutch in to start the car. Yeah, they might push the clutch in, but since your relay's cutting that circuit out, the car doesn't know otherwise.

You should hook the power wire for the Viper into the positive terminal on the starter, not to the "obvious" positive terminal on the battery.

Yeah, stick with the one shock sensor, wire-tie it to the harness at the base of your steering column. If you wanted to use two sensors for some reason, the Viper's orange wire (is it orange? Hell it's been a good 6 years...) is the trigger wire for zone 2. (At least, on the Viper 300T.)

When installing multiple alarm sensors, such as the dual-stage shock sensor along with the field-disturbance sensor, all of them tie into the orange wire. However, a diode is used right before the connection to the orange wire. I believe the Vipers ask for a 1N1004 diode? Anyway, you'd put this diode in the end of the wire from the sensor. Then, you'd hook the other end of the diode to the orange trigger wire.

But; that's alot of work if both of them are dual-stage shock sensors. One of those under the steering column's enough.

Oh here's another install tip: If your Viper starts to act funny (as in, you think, "Oh crap! I broke it!"), disconnect the negative battery cable for a few seconds, OR flick the ignition key from "off" to "on/run" to "off" again.

For silent start-up of your alarm, as in, after you've installed it, and you're going to hook the negative cable of the battery back up, put the key in the ignition switch. Turn the key from "off" to "on/run" (NOT start/crank!). Now, connect the negative cable. Otherwise you'll get a siren in your ear!

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Old 03-24-2001, 12:23 PM   #12
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is there a way to disable fuel delivery? this could be with the fuel pump, gas pedal pressure, anything...

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Ravenous ...stronger than you think.
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