Stock dual electrics vs. aftermarket
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 400
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Stock dual electrics vs. aftermarket
I'm looking at running a stock dual electric setup, versus buying a derale dual setup from Summit that's rated for 4000 cfm. Is is a set of stockers good enough to cool my high performance 400, or would I be better off going with the aftermarket and fabbing up a radiator support bracket?
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
im running the stock dual electric fans and i have them wired to come on at all times(going to change to a switch soon though) and the blow ALOT of air. i have a mild 350 and it stays at 180 degrees unless there is some heavy heavy traffic which my car never sees.
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Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
I am thinking on buying Summits direct fit radiator just dont know what fans will fit it? Unless the stock (I am also doing a dual fan setup conversion) dual fans can be mounted to it.
Here it is:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This also has an AUTOMATIC Transmission Cooler Built in. Meaning I dont have to buy aftermarket and have more accessories (weight) on my car.
GMPartDirect has both L & R hand fans for $40/pr. Hawks Third Gen has the upper and lower fan shrouds for around $40/pr. So around $100 including wiring and labor and switched.......Anyway good luck and if anyone knows of anything about this radiator please let me know, like what aftermarket fans fit?
Here it is:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This also has an AUTOMATIC Transmission Cooler Built in. Meaning I dont have to buy aftermarket and have more accessories (weight) on my car.
GMPartDirect has both L & R hand fans for $40/pr. Hawks Third Gen has the upper and lower fan shrouds for around $40/pr. So around $100 including wiring and labor and switched.......Anyway good luck and if anyone knows of anything about this radiator please let me know, like what aftermarket fans fit?
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I converted from belt to dual electrics in my 85 (350/330), and the car runs cooler now than it did stock with my old LG4. I wanted nothing to do with in-cabin switches because I didn't relish the inconvenience. Here's what I did:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...electrics.html
JamesC
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...electrics.html
JamesC
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
Not trying to steal a thread here..but this brought up an idea I have had for awhile, just haven't done it.
JamesC I have a question.
I am running a stock dual fan setup on my car wired through relays and activated by toggle switches, each fan is seperately controlled.I want to set them up to come on automatic through the use of a temp switch, but also have a manual overide.If I am right the head mounted coolant/thermal switch is the ground switch for the fan relays?
If that is the case I can use any readily made switch like the Jet IIRC that turns on at 200/off at 185 and run my relay grounds through that to control my fans automatic?Then I could also leave the hard grounds already in place so that I can also control them with the toggles if I so decide?
JamesC I have a question.
I am running a stock dual fan setup on my car wired through relays and activated by toggle switches, each fan is seperately controlled.I want to set them up to come on automatic through the use of a temp switch, but also have a manual overide.If I am right the head mounted coolant/thermal switch is the ground switch for the fan relays?
If that is the case I can use any readily made switch like the Jet IIRC that turns on at 200/off at 185 and run my relay grounds through that to control my fans automatic?Then I could also leave the hard grounds already in place so that I can also control them with the toggles if I so decide?
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Car: 84 Z28 H.O. w/Megasquirt II
Engine: semi-stock L69
Transmission: T-5 non W/C
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
You would need two paths to ground for an 'override control'.
One path is through the sensor, and this'll handle the automatic control. The other ground, which should branch off of the wire to the sensor, is through your in-cabin switch. The other side of the switch would go to a good ground. This setup will kill the fan if the key is off, which is a good thing.
I have this feature and absolutly love it. Worry about it when you want, ignore it the rest of the time and it works great.
My other car only has the in-cabin switch wired through a relay coming straight off the battery. Although it is VERY hard to leave a loud fan running as your walking away from your car, I have managed to do it. It was raining hard and I got distracted. Come back out, and my battery is dead, and the rain was still pouring.
One path is through the sensor, and this'll handle the automatic control. The other ground, which should branch off of the wire to the sensor, is through your in-cabin switch. The other side of the switch would go to a good ground. This setup will kill the fan if the key is off, which is a good thing.
I have this feature and absolutly love it. Worry about it when you want, ignore it the rest of the time and it works great.
My other car only has the in-cabin switch wired through a relay coming straight off the battery. Although it is VERY hard to leave a loud fan running as your walking away from your car, I have managed to do it. It was raining hard and I got distracted. Come back out, and my battery is dead, and the rain was still pouring.
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
[QUOTE=pizza_guy;3157950]You would need two paths to ground for an 'override control'.
One path is through the sensor, and this'll handle the automatic control. The other ground, which should branch off of the wire to the sensor, is through your in-cabin switch. The other side of the switch would go to a good ground. This setup will kill the fan if the key is off, which is a good thing.
I have this feature and absolutly love it. Worry about it when you want, ignore it the rest of the time and it works great.[QUOTE]
Exactly what I wanted to hear.I have to revise my wiring to do so but this is what I have been wanting to do for awhile now.Many thanks!!
One path is through the sensor, and this'll handle the automatic control. The other ground, which should branch off of the wire to the sensor, is through your in-cabin switch. The other side of the switch would go to a good ground. This setup will kill the fan if the key is off, which is a good thing.
I have this feature and absolutly love it. Worry about it when you want, ignore it the rest of the time and it works great.[QUOTE]
Exactly what I wanted to hear.I have to revise my wiring to do so but this is what I have been wanting to do for awhile now.Many thanks!!
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#9
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Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
My car will be for street/strip. I thought of maybe going with a 2600 stall. Nothing to MONSTEROUS. Lol. Also a quick question, how much advantage could I be looking at if I cooled my fuel? I will be buying flex-a-lites fuel cooler. Says it cools up to 80*.....HELL YEAH.
P.S. How big of a stall can I go with without using an external cooler. Because if I have to get one I am not buying that radiator.....I'll buy one from be cool.....3 row.....aluminum.....BADASS
P.S. How big of a stall can I go with without using an external cooler. Because if I have to get one I am not buying that radiator.....I'll buy one from be cool.....3 row.....aluminum.....BADASS
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
My car will be for street/strip. I thought of maybe going with a 2600 stall. Nothing to MONSTEROUS. Lol. Also a quick question, how much advantage could I be looking at if I cooled my fuel? I will be buying flex-a-lites fuel cooler. Says it cools up to 80*.....HELL YEAH.
P.S. How big of a stall can I go with without using an external cooler. Because if I have to get one I am not buying that radiator.....I'll buy one from be cool.....3 row.....aluminum.....BADASS
P.S. How big of a stall can I go with without using an external cooler. Because if I have to get one I am not buying that radiator.....I'll buy one from be cool.....3 row.....aluminum.....BADASS
For the main topic, I just have a plain jane 31x19 Howie radiator with the factory dual fans hooked into a Moroso automatic/manual switch. Fnas come on automatically at 180* and shut off after it reaches 145* or so. Not optimum for a street car, but for me, it works. Car has never been north of 180* since the switch, hwy, in town, 100* outside or 30* outside.
I have the largest external tranny cooler BTE makes, I play hell to get my tranny upto 150*. Typically when I street drive it 120* is about all I can get it upto under normal dirving conditions, and this is a 10" convertor that is rated at 4600 but flashes to 5000 on the hit. Our other truck has a 8" convertor with the B&M super cooler and built in fan, after one pass that thing is north of 210*....other buddies with 8" race convertors have no issues streeet driving them, while the other half get too hot too quickly, so everything will depend on your combination, and the only way to know for sure is to guage it.
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
I ditched my stock dual setup for a single electric (Proform?) I bought from Summit. The stock may have flowed more being two fans but I didn't want to mess with mounting them. Mine now flows 2100cfm which will hopefully be sufficient with the Stewart Stage II pump, big rad, and lower t-stat.
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
It you want less hassle mounting fans try the 4th Gen LT1/LS1 fan assembly.They use the same fan motors(I think the later LS1 maybe different)as the single/dual 3rd Gen fans and you have it packaged in a one piece assembly.I have a LT1 setup mounted in my '95 Jimmy 4X4 and it does a good job.On my '83 I have her converted to the 3rd Gen dual fans.
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Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
How big of a convertor without an external cooler is a loaded question since every combination will react differently. All you can do is install a trans temp guage and see where your at, and honestly I think the trans temp guages is just as critical as water temp guage so you can monitor if the tranny is getting stupidly hot for some odd reason.
For the main topic, I just have a plain jane 31x19 Howie radiator with the factory dual fans hooked into a Moroso automatic/manual switch. Fnas come on automatically at 180* and shut off after it reaches 145* or so. Not optimum for a street car, but for me, it works. Car has never been north of 180* since the switch, hwy, in town, 100* outside or 30* outside.
I have the largest external tranny cooler BTE makes, I play hell to get my tranny upto 150*. Typically when I street drive it 120* is about all I can get it upto under normal dirving conditions, and this is a 10" convertor that is rated at 4600 but flashes to 5000 on the hit. Our other truck has a 8" convertor with the B&M super cooler and built in fan, after one pass that thing is north of 210*....other buddies with 8" race convertors have no issues streeet driving them, while the other half get too hot too quickly, so everything will depend on your combination, and the only way to know for sure is to guage it.
For the main topic, I just have a plain jane 31x19 Howie radiator with the factory dual fans hooked into a Moroso automatic/manual switch. Fnas come on automatically at 180* and shut off after it reaches 145* or so. Not optimum for a street car, but for me, it works. Car has never been north of 180* since the switch, hwy, in town, 100* outside or 30* outside.
I have the largest external tranny cooler BTE makes, I play hell to get my tranny upto 150*. Typically when I street drive it 120* is about all I can get it upto under normal dirving conditions, and this is a 10" convertor that is rated at 4600 but flashes to 5000 on the hit. Our other truck has a 8" convertor with the B&M super cooler and built in fan, after one pass that thing is north of 210*....other buddies with 8" race convertors have no issues streeet driving them, while the other half get too hot too quickly, so everything will depend on your combination, and the only way to know for sure is to guage it.
I understand alot. This helped much. Thanks IHI
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