RBob

iTrader: (1)

An AFPR is just an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You set the fuel pressure to the value desired and that is where it stays. If the injector outlets are below the throttle blades then most likely it will also need to be vacuum referenced. This is to retain the same injector flow rate as the manifold pressure changes.

You don't have to run a knock system (ESC) with the EBL. But on a boosted engine it is recommended. I placed it in the drain hole of a '68 SBC block. Which is where GM places it in the GEN SBC's that come with an ESC system.

RBob.

TierAngst

Is that drain hole properly tapped already or is it a push in style thing?

"Q3) Where do I put the knock sensor?
A3) Passenger side water jacket drain plug - just above oil pan rail. Be forewarned that it is best to remove this plug while engine is out of the engine bay. These plugs are known to rust-in and break while removing. Drilling a pilot hole and right size easy-out is only way I know to get them out! It is PITA."

Found this on another forum, is that accurate and do you have another (hopefully easier) way to remove the drain plug? Am I going to be dumping lots of fluid when removing this?

Is this the right PN: 350 knock sensor - GM 10456288?

Thanks for all the help so far Bob and sorry for the stream of questions.

TierAngst

Just got off the phone with motorvation and he said their 1150cfm TB runs the long style TPI/LT1/etc. injectors either high or low impedance (said $324 for (4) 83# low saturated), this is more of what you're wanting to run, correct?

Also found for a bit cheaper: 83# FAST Injectors on Ebay would those work?


Also heard back on the powerjection setup...no go, they don't use a narrowband and don't have spark control yet.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Drain hole is a tapered pipe thread. I may have used a brass 3/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT bushing, but don't recall. It is a block drain for the coolant. But usually after a number of years they are crusted over. So after removing the plug nothing drains. Until you stick a wire in there and knock the crust open.

The correct knock sensor would be for a GM TBI system. Say a '90 full size van (K van) with a 350.

RBob.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

I don't think that the Motorvation TB is what you want. According to their site the injectors are set up as aux units for high power applications:

• 1150 cfm Injector Throttle Body has provisions for 6 injectors, supports power levels up to 1000 HP
• Ideal for turbo / blown applications where additional injectors are needed for extreme power levels

So, I don't know how they are set up.

The FAST injectors are OK. Here is a set of Deka I 83 #/hr low imp injectors that are good:

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/621

And the Accel TBI unit that takes 4 standard port injectors:

http://www.accel-dfi.com/ProductDeta...tSearch=74135B

To be honest I don't like the idea of a TB requiring a modified injector that is only available from one source. And then only offering high impedance injectors at that.

RBob.

TierAngst

No rails, 1000cfm, all electronics:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

I could get the rails from here:
http://www.auto-nomics.com/cgi-bin/s...part=10910-005
Or try getting a set from motorvation since they use the same setup on their Accel replicas.


OR:
750cfm - All electronics and rails included:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVC-950750/

What do you think?

TierAngst

Sprung for the 1k CFM unit since it's cheaper ($310). Working on getting some rails ordered for it now, we'll see how that goes.

Ordered the 83# Deka's and pigtails for $262 and knock sensor, knock module, and map for $158.

Just need to dig out my ECM to get it sent in now, it's a pain finding everything after having it in storage for a year.

TierAngst

Looking over the wiring diagrams on the dynamicefi.com I came up with a few questions...
Does the VSS box need to be in place between the sensor and ECM or can I run it direct?
Is the wiring diagram for the injectors only for the 4-injector upgrade or is this the same way I need to hook them up?
I'm guessing no for all of these but do I need to hook up: VATS (B6), High Idle (B9), anything for the trans/TCC/Park/neutral (my 700R4 is setup for standalone operation), the oil pressure switch, and the ALDL stuff (A8, A9)?
Can I tie in all (or some of) the 10 amp fused 12 volt ignition switched leads or does each one need to be on its own fuse?

TierAngst

Been super busy and totally forgot to ship out my ECM! It's going in the mail today and will be getting the TT-1 to use with the EBL and putting my LC-1 in my LQ9 Jeep.

Will the TT-1 work by itself since it has a narrowband sim or will I still need to use both it and a narrow band separately?

Sorry for the constant barrage of questions, just don't want any surprises since this is my only vehicle til I move back to NY where my Jeep is waiting.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The magnetic and optical type sensors needs a buffer box. There are some 2-pole digital sensors that do not need a buffer. The ECM VSS input is 2K PPM, digital (square wave) input.

VATs and high idle are optional, the TCC is optional. A park/neutral switch is nice to have but not mandatory. It helps prevent stalling when shifting into gear. Can crutch it by having the engine idle in park/neutral a little high on the throttle stop screw. And with some IAC counts when in gear.

ALDL is optional, but is available for use with a standard scan tool (diagnostics), flashing codes, and running the IAC.

The oil pressure switch is optional. It is a bypass for the fuel pump relay in case it or the ECM FP relay driver fails. Note however, that the fuel pump input to the ECM (B2) should be connected. It is used for injector compensation vs. system voltage.

The ignition switched power can be grouped together more on a lower number of fuses. IIRC, the diagrams show more along the lines of how it is OEM. Having the injectors separate is a good idea.

Injector wiring: it will be the same as shown for the 4-injector upgrade.

RBob.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The TT-1 has a simulated NB output that can be used in place of a NB sensor. The catch is the location. The WB sensor needs to be in a cooler area then a NB sensor. So down under the vehicle prior to the cat is the best location.

Since this usually leaves the NB O2 sensor in place, it is easier to just use it. The 2nd output on the TT-1 can then be used for a gauge, or even to a DVM for a quick reading without a laptop.

RBob.

TierAngst

The speed sensor is from my 92 olds wagon, it's the digital 2-wire.
My B&M shifter has a neutral safety switch...can I wire it up to the ecm?
The rest of the stuff will likely be wired up eventually


The LC-1 is still running like a champ after 3k miles installed in my long tubes, guess I got lucky... is there a recommended distance on how far back (I don't have cats) and is there a wiring diagram for hooking it up for auto tune with the EBL software or is that included in the WB software to use separately?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

You can use the prk/neut safety switch to activate a relay for use as a prk/neut input to the ECM. And still use the P/N safety still as that. To cut power to the starter unless in P/N.

The P/N input to the ECM is as follows: open in drive, grounded when in park or neutral. Using a plain 12V relay, one end of the relay coil goes to IGN +12 volts. The other end of the relay coil goes to the P/N safety switch. The end that goes to the +12 cranking voltage from the ignition switch.

This has the relay being activated whenever the ignition is on and the shifter in the P/N position. It finds ground through the safety switch and then through the solenoid coil. The current isn't high enough to activate the solenoid. But the relay does close.

Shift into a drive position and the ground goes away. And the relay opens.

The relay contacts: common (C) it tied to ground, normally open (NO) goes to the ECM.

During cranking the relay will open showing 'in drive.' But that doesn't matter as the ECM doesn't care about it during cranking.

You can find the TT-1 WB manual online at:

www.dynamicefi.com/TT-1_UsersManual.html

RBob.

TierAngst

And here I was thinking I went through all the pages on your site. Apparently missed that one!

Thanks for clarifying the P/N switch. I really need to pull that harness out and start modifying it while waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Actually, there isn't a link to the users manual on the site. So didn't miss it!

RBob.