When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
DFI and ECMDiscuss all aspects of DFI (Digital Fuel Injection), ECMs (Electronic Control Module), scanners, and diagnostic equipment. Fine tune your Third Gen computer system for top performance.
I’m sure there are several owners on this forum who have installed the FAST XFI 2.0 on their car. Im in the market for a new EFI system for my engine build and I I’ve got a few questions. My car is a 1990 TPI with the 7730ecm currently installed. The engine is a 383 with FIRST intake.
1. What issues did you run into splicing the system into your car? (Loss of function of speedometer and tach etc)
2. Did you remove your current ECM?
3. How intuitive is the tuning software? Is it worth it over Tunerpro and a 7730 ecm?
The build is a 383 with AFR 195 heads and it Doesn’t t have nitrous or a power adder, but I don’t want to limit my options if I’m going through with re wiring the whole mess.
Anything else to to consider with a swap to XFI 2.0?
Are you tuning yourself ? If not you are better off with the EBL https://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_P4_Flash.php
I have both the EBL and XFI 2.0
The EBL is more like OEM and the XFI requires alot of fine tuning.
I have an EZ-EFI 2.0 retro kit in my IROC and basically took out the factory ECM and harness and only kept the wiring for the constant/keyed power and gauges coming out of the C100 block.
I have an EZ-EFI 2.0 retro kit in my IROC and basically took out the factory ECM and harness and only kept the wiring for the constant/keyed power and gauges coming out of the C100 block.
thats exactly the route I’m planning on taking. So for example, the FAST harness has a leg off of it for the speed sensor on the transmisssion, on the factory ecm those wires go to the 7730 ecm and send the signal from there to the gage cluster, did you backpin off of that output from the XFI computer to your gages? What about the tach? Or the temp gage? I’m thinking it’s all just going to take a bit of time and I’ll be able to sort it out. I’m just wondering if you ran into anything that you couldn’t make work? I also forgot to mention that I’m going to use their distributor as well and remove my current one.
thats exactly the route I’m planning on taking. So for example, the FAST harness has a leg off of it for the speed sensor on the transmisssion, on the factory ecm those wires go to the 7730 ecm and send the signal from there to the gage cluster, did you backpin off of that output from the XFI computer to your gages? What about the tach? Or the temp gage? I’m thinking it’s all just going to take a bit of time and I’ll be able to sort it out. I’m just wondering if you ran into anything that you couldn’t make work? I also forgot to mention that I’m going to use their distributor as well and remove my current one.
I don't remember there being a VSS wire in my kit, but my car is a manual so that could be why I didn't hook one up. As for the gauges I did a pin out of the C100 block and isolated the Tach, temp, oil, and volts and those wires were just ran to the corresponding sensors. There are two temp sensors on my car so one of them is directly hooked into the Fast ecu and the other to the gauge. I had to extend the fuel pump wire into the engine bay to meet up with the fast ecu and also rewire the dual electric fans. I also went with all fast ignition components like the dual sync distributor, E6 ignition box and matching coil. Going that way it was a plug and play installation with only three wires to run. (12v constant, 12v keyed, ground)
I have not ran the engine yet due to some coolant leak issues and needing new injectors, but I really haven't had any wiring issues that I couldn't figure out. It has just been a slow process with a lot of research to make sure it's being done right.
I would also like to mention that I had to rewire my entire engine bay due to rodent damage, so that was the main reason I went with the kit I did.
I don't remember there being a VSS wire in my kit, but my car is a manual so that could be why I didn't hook one up. As for the gauges I did a pin out of the C100 block and isolated the Tach, temp, oil, and volts and those wires were just ran to the corresponding sensors. There are two temp sensors on my car so one of them is directly hooked into the Fast ecu and the other to the gauge. I had to extend the fuel pump wire into the engine bay to meet up with the fast ecu and also rewire the dual electric fans. I also went with all fast ignition components like the dual sync distributor, E6 ignition box and matching coil. Going that way it was a plug and play installation with only three wires to run. (12v constant, 12v keyed, ground)
I have not ran the engine yet due to some coolant leak issues and needing new injectors, but I really haven't had any wiring issues that I couldn't figure out. It has just been a slow process with a lot of research to make sure it's being done right.
I would also like to mention that I had to rewire my entire engine bay due to rodent damage, so that was the main reason I went with the kit I did.
Ok, that’s exactly how I have it drawn up too. My car is also a manual and definitely has a speed sensor circuit that wires through the factory ECM though.
Ok, that’s exactly how I have it drawn up too. My car is also a manual and definitely has a speed sensor circuit that wires through the factory ECM though.
Maybe because you have a 90 and mine is an 87? Hell I don't know lol!
So I happened upon my C100 pin out and here is what I came up with for wires I had to deal with
Red - switched power - hooked into fast ecu and ignition box
Purple - Starter interlock - ran to starter solenoid
White - Tach - ran to the ignition box
Tan - Oil pressure - ran to pressure sensor on back of motor
Dark green - Coolant temp - ran to temp sensor on maifold
Brown - Volts - ran to alternator
Red - constant power - ran to starter
Since I'm using all Fast components both the distributor and ignition box are supplying info to the ecu that would normally have to be hooked up such as crank trigger and rpm input. Also since I removed the factory ecu the fast one is controlling the factory dual electric fans now.
So I happened upon my C100 pin out and here is what I came up with for wires I had to deal with
Red - switched power - hooked into fast ecu and ignition box
Purple - Starter interlock - ran to starter solenoid
White - Tach - ran to the ignition box
Tan - Oil pressure - ran to pressure sensor on back of motor
Dark green - Coolant temp - ran to temp sensor on maifold
Brown - Volts - ran to alternator
Red - constant power - ran to starter
Since I'm using all Fast components both the distributor and ignition box are supplying info to the ecu that would normally have to be hooked up such as crank trigger and rpm input. Also since I removed the factory ecu the fast one is controlling the factory dual electric fans now.
ok cool. Thank you, I will verify those pinouts on my c100 and probably wind up doing the same. That pretty much sounds exactly like what I’m after too.
I'm setting off to do the same thing. I'm switching over to a T56 transmission. What did you end up having to do to get the speedometer to work? Does it run through the ECM behind the dash? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Mine is a 91.
I’m about 80% complete with my installation of the XFI so far. I haven’t got to the VSS yet. A couple of years ago when I put a TKO 600 into my car I fixed the speedometer by buying an interface box from Dakota digital. You wire in power and ground and splice into the yellow signal wire on the connectors for the ECM and you can then dial the box up or down and match your speed. I’m hoping I can use the same box on my new XFI harness and get the same result.
07-04-2020, 10:09 AM
