$32B vs $6E
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
$32B vs $6E
I posted this on the TPI board and realized I probably should have posted it here instead:
I am getting my new (old) tpi setup on Saturday. It's off of an '87 IROC 305 and has the cold start injector. I'm considering converting it to the 1989 bin and deleting the cold start injector (and VATS). But before I go through the trouble, are there really any advantages in the '89 bin over the '87 bin? And are they referred to as aryp.bin and arap.bin?
I am getting my new (old) tpi setup on Saturday. It's off of an '87 IROC 305 and has the cold start injector. I'm considering converting it to the 1989 bin and deleting the cold start injector (and VATS). But before I go through the trouble, are there really any advantages in the '89 bin over the '87 bin? And are they referred to as aryp.bin and arap.bin?
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Cold start injector is problematic. Eliminating it is one more thing less to break. The 89 code is the most advanced form the factory so it should theoretically be the best code in regards to driveability and performance.
I do believe most people here who work on the 86-89 maf cars do indeed use the $6E code as do I for my friends cars.
I dont have the specific broadcast codes for a 305 MAF car handy, but I'm sure a quick search here should net you the answers you seek.
later
Jeremy
I do believe most people here who work on the 86-89 maf cars do indeed use the $6E code as do I for my friends cars.
I dont have the specific broadcast codes for a 305 MAF car handy, but I'm sure a quick search here should net you the answers you seek.
later
Jeremy
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Car: '84 Chevy 1500
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350
So...are you saying that I can take my $32 code off my '86 MAF system and just load it up with a $6E bin? Can I do that? I thought the ECM's are also different.
I'd much rather use the $6E code, more options.
If possible, then in theory I could just load up a $6E bin, throw it in, and it'll run with it, right?
-HD
I'd much rather use the $6E code, more options.
If possible, then in theory I could just load up a $6E bin, throw it in, and it'll run with it, right?
-HD
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
Well I hunted around and found out the bins I had quoted "aryp.bin and arap.bin" are corvette bins (included with TunerPRO). The bin on my ecm is ABUN. So I went to Craig Moates site and DIY-EFI, but neither has an ABUN file. Any other source to get a copy of it?
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
The computers are the same "165"....
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
I guess I don't really need a copy of ABUN. I just thought it would be nice for comparison. I wonder if there's a way to find out what the last $6E bin file name was...
Last edited by 86LG4T56; 04-02-2005 at 10:22 PM.
#7
If you're asking about stock BINs, the later programs have better MAF tables, better spark tables, more appropriate TCC points, and the commonly available ECU files offer more control options. The same options are there for $32 and $32B, but evidently few people have bothered to hunt up the addresses in those masks and devise a more complete ECU file to open those options.
FWIW, I'm using $6E and an ARAP based custom bin on my '86 with no problems. I disabled the cold start, toyed with the cold fuel adders, and reconnected the cold start. It actually starts best with a little of both. Go figure.
FWIW, I'm using $6E and an ARAP based custom bin on my '86 with no problems. I disabled the cold start, toyed with the cold fuel adders, and reconnected the cold start. It actually starts best with a little of both. Go figure.
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Car: 86 IROC
Engine: SC'ed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 12bolt
last spring I used $6E on my 86 and it runs much better. I think I used ARAP bin so I had to change the injectors to 19# and I copied my spark tables from my stock bin. I also modified the Crank Fuel PW Multiplier vs Ref Pulse to get rid of the long crank. I just pulled the fuse for my 9th injector, for now, will do a 9th delete someday. I still have a strange clunky shift when slowing down to a stop sign or turn but overall I'm very happy.
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Car: '84 Chevy 1500
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350
Well, why won't my engine start if I load up ARAP.bin into my prom? It should at least start if I just throw the ARAP bin into my '165 comp that originally had $32 code in it right?
What am I doing wrong?
-HD
What am I doing wrong?
-HD
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Car: '89 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5WC
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi
Don't forget to switch the fan N/O in the bin if using ARAP/APYP.
The other (biggest, IMO) advantage to using $6E is the 8192 baud (vs. the painfully slow 160 baud).
Should be as simple as this for loading $6E:
1) Select your bin (ARAP/APYP/ANZA [5spd LB9])
2) Reverse the Fan N/O switch in the switches list if necessary (ARAP/APYP)
3) Disable your cold start injector
4) Disable the VATS switch in the switches list if your car doesn't have it
5) Burn
6) Run
The other (biggest, IMO) advantage to using $6E is the 8192 baud (vs. the painfully slow 160 baud).
Should be as simple as this for loading $6E:
1) Select your bin (ARAP/APYP/ANZA [5spd LB9])
2) Reverse the Fan N/O switch in the switches list if necessary (ARAP/APYP)
3) Disable your cold start injector
4) Disable the VATS switch in the switches list if your car doesn't have it
5) Burn
6) Run
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Car: '84 Chevy 1500
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350
Ok, I'll un-check VATS, check FANN/O, but I can't find a switch to disable the 9th injector. By disable 9th injector did you mean to unplug it, or disable it with a switch? If with a switch, what is the switch called in tunerpro?
Thanks,
-HD
Thanks,
-HD
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Car: 83 TA, 89 TTA, others
Engine: ZZ4 TPI, LC2 turbo v6
Transmission: several, mostly broken
Just unplug it. The cold start injector operates off of a thermal switch, so the ECM doesn't have independent control of it.
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