Iroc_Z28

hey i think my hatch motor burned up i was just wondering how i can get my hatch to lock down until i can get a new one.....any help is greatly appericated

Duffster

well, the latch should still work, it's not electric, it's mechanical. if you need to get the hatch to drop until you can work it, it's a PITA...
remove the 3 bolts holding the motor assembly in place.
remove the motor assembly from the carrier by removing the LARGE screws holding the plastic housing and then slide the carrier down into the assembly.
bold the assembly back into place w/the 3 bolts.
close your hatch.

Or try replacing your fuse if that might be it.
More symptoms might help.
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Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),Torker II intake, Holley 80457,600cfm w/vacuum secondaries,84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.

Iroc_Z28

I already checked the fuse... that was the fiest thing i did

Duffster

Iroc_Z28

It worked perfect when i went to the store i opend the hatch and closed it came back home and when i opened it the motor didnt push the latch up..........there is no more symptoms...so my guess is the motor is shot i want to know how do i get the latch up enough for the hatch to lock in place

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

if the the motor fried when it was down you'll have a hell of a time getting the hatch shut. somehow i found myself with the hatch open and the motor was down. even with all the slamming it wouldn't reach.
hope this isn't your situation.
it is pretty easy to replace though, it is all in a single unit that can be swapped out.
make sure you get the correct year model though. gm changed the connectors on some of them. my '87 parts car and '88 my driver car have slightly different ones. just thought i'd mention it.

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88 CAMARO RS
87 IROC-Z DRIVETRAIN
305 TPI, 700R4, 3.73s
ported plenum, performance resource chip,edelbrock TES Headers and cat-back, K&Ns, AFPR, rest is stock.
15.0 @ 92.5 (bald tires)

Camaros4_life

My hatch does the same thing sometimes, what I do is I push the little notch at the top of the motor, its the little thing that tells the motor to come back up... If you push it down and hold it down it will come back up then you slowly lower the hatch on it and it will lock it down...

GTARob

Look at the motor. There is supposed to be a plastic peice with some blueish grease in it. If that is broken the motor is gone. Mine did that and I could only pop the trunk once a day. after that it would overheat and not work. The motor brand new is 400 bucks!!! I got my new one from a junk yard, works good.

88305tpiT/A

iTrader: (2)

I think I can help

my pulldown stopped working about 2 weeks ago and I just got it fixed today.

here is what happened.

my motor was doing nothing at all but luckily was in the up position so it would latch.
when you take the plastic molding off the trunk this is what you should see
relay, with wires going to the motor (4) and 2 wires going behind the latch to the switch, a tab that camaros4_life was talking about. if you have a different set up then I guess fake IROC is right about different model years. mine is an 88.

at first we thought that my motor was fried but i just wanted to tell you that I had some of the same problems you do and the only thing that was wrong was that switch was dirty and the guy tokk it apart and cleaned it today and now it works.

of course if any parts are obviously broken I.E. the clear plastic housing with the blue grease then just go to parts recycling place and get the whole unit because these are only 65 bucks ( i bought one before I got mine working).

and the relay for the dash button is only 10 bucks if you feel like splurging.

any way this reply is kind of hard to write so if you need any more info let me know.

James

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88 T/A 305 TPI--
K&N,Air foil,hypertech chip, thermostat+fanswitch
no MAF screens, no cat, dynomax exh, urethane motor+trans mounts,
SSM frame con, Bilsteins
homemade ramair.

Godti

My hatch motor does not work. It fried when it was down, now basically all I have to do to shut it is like a regular hatchback, slam it shut. I dont see why you couldnt get yours to latch!!

Iroc_Z28

well if i knew why it wouldnt latch i wouldnt have posted anything on the board..so if you dont have some helpful advice we dont want no smartas* comements...thank you and have a nice day

Godti

Who made the smart *** comment?? If you are refering to me, I was mearly pointing out that I can shut my hatch with the motor in the down postion and could not understand why '87FAKE-IROC-Z (hence the quote) could not. Mine is still not working, I think its the relay, I just have not had the time to mess around with it.

[This message has been edited by Godti (edited November 30, 2000).]

88305tpiT/A

iTrader: (2)

hey guys

I think the motor should work without the relay. if you push the trunk release button and you can hear the latch click then the relay is fine and its probably the switch or the motor.
also not all motors pull down the same amount. you can adjust the motor placement by losening the bolts to the track assy. and moving it around.
this is why when some motors die in the down position they will latch while others will not.
if you want to just latch it like a normal hatch back you can adjust the tracks so that the striker just reaches the latch. but be careful not to make it too hard to close--
the motor was put there for a reason (stupid as it may seem) GM didnt want people shattering the window. I think it cost like 800$ new or something.
James

Godti

I thought the reason for the motor was so you did not have to slam the hatch. The slamming of the hatch puts pressure on the spoiler causing it to crack (the gta spoiler anyways). Can you get this option on a Z28, if so then it puts my theory in the garbage.

Blade

Z28s and IROCs also had that option since at least 85.

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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires.

Best ET 13.5@105 mph

"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)

http://www.truspeed.org/Members/Chev...dmondIndre.htm

BigH

89GTA. HELP! I need to know where to get
the plastic guides(4) for trunk pulldown motor. So far I have replaced the clear plastic motor housing and now the motor
will not work, just gets real hot!