TimRS

OK guys I have electronics question. A couple of months ago my wife and I went to the mountains on vacation. When I returned I planned to change my radiator which was leaking. While in the mountains I broke my foot and had to have surgery and was off my feet for about two months. So once I'm back up and moving around I go out to start the RS so that I can move it and begin the radiator work. It won't start; no juice in the battery. I charge the battery and try to start and the black junction block by the battery starts to smoke. What I believe is a fusable link now has the smaller guage wire broken between the fuse and junction block. I spliced this back together and tried to start but no luck. The starter turns over and I have lights, HVAC fan, but not radio and the ignition is not sparking. I sure of the ignition because I removed the coil wire from the distributor and left it close enough to the post on the distributor to see if it would arc and nothing happened. I also do not hear the electric fuel pump cycle when you turn the key. Does this entire fusable link need to be changed or do you guys have any other ideas?

TimRS

Somebody has got to have some idea or experienced something similiar.

NINÅ

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Fusible links are located near the junction block you found and on the starter wires

Fusible links are just a fuse in a wire to prevent surges. Go to any parts store and get a blade fuse pigtail and splice that in place of the link

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

hey neighbor. get a schematic and find where the volt drop is. use a test light to check those links.

tony_cogliandro

iTrader: (3)

pm me with an email address and i will send you the entire wiring diagram including the 7 fuseable link areas. its from my 90.

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

if you already have a schematic, disconnect the ecm, use a dvom and check power and ground at the ecm pins

skirkland1980

iTrader: (2)

my email is chevycamy@yahoo.com

TimRS

Excuse my ignorance, but where is the fuel pump relay? Is toward the rear under the car close the gas tank?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Near the brake booster on the firewall

There should be 2-3 depending on how many fans you have. The fuel pump relay will have a red wire lead with a black connector sticking out not connected to anything

Unplug it and test voltage on the orange wire, or simply supply 12v to the red wire and listen for the fuel pump to prime

TimRS

Thanks Pocket. I'm gonna give this a try this afternoon. I'll post what I find.

Badley

You will need to replace the whole link. Make sure you install a link that is 4 sizes smaller than the wire it connecting to. Example, if your connecting to a 10 Gauge wire you will need to use a 14 Gauge fusable link. Hope this helps.

Jason Badley

Theking

iTrader: (1)

isnt it possible to replace with regular (large AGU) fuses instead ?
Or isnt that possible to get a correct AMP fuse ?

People seem to have alot of trouble with fuse links...

Im working on replacing all old power cables to new (little larger) ones to prevent problems. only have 3 fuse links left to replace / or change to regular fuses.

Runned large AWG2 from battery to starter and same size from battery -> block and new cable from alternator to battery (little little bigger than stock)

Just left with the 2 small fuse links from starter to fusebox and the larger fuse link to fans and injectors...



Also did you solve your problem ? what was it ? its always good coming back telling if you found the problem or not.

Badley

I Just rewired my whole car, a 68 Camaro which i switched over to Fuel Injection. I used fuseable links and relays throughout. I read up on some stuff from Mad Electrical and it made alot a sense. Is it the best way to go? I dont know, but after reading up on everyting I decided it was the best way for me. Heres a link to the Mad web site. http://www.madelectrical.com/

I was just answering this guys Question about replacing a fuseable link.