vangogh4560

my car is a 1987 camaro it has been a carb car since i got it but my wire harness has been a mess. i have just pulled the motor for the first time and I'm trying to clean the bay up new paint got rid of the ac but going to put the blower back in so i can have heat.this weekend I'm going to try to get rid of all the wires that i don't need have a Friend that is going to help me and he seems to know what he is doing but I'm scared as hell. at this point i think all i need is all of the main power to the battery power to my alternator power to my distributor the wires that go to my 700r4 and the wires for the blower motor. the harness that goes to my head lights seem to be all in 1 so will not mess with that at all. if you guys have some tips or know of something that i should not get rid of id really appreciate it.

91RS_Charlotte

iTrader: (1)

If it still has the Oil Pressure Switch on the back of the manifold, it would be a good idea to leave that on there as it cuts fuel to the engine in case of loss of oil pressure to prevent engine damage.

vangogh4560

nah its never had that since i have had it. the 305 i just took out of it has Edelbrock carb intake and headers

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Wrong
The oil pressure switch TURNS ON the fuel pump once oil pressure is over 4 psi.In any case it is in parallel with the fuel pump relay so one or the other would keep fuel to the engine regardless of what oil pressure is

camaronewbie

The large wire bundle that comes out of the pass side fenderwell - all of that can go - every last wire. So, you can unplug from inside the car, take the plastic fenderwell cover out of the wheel well, and disconnect the entire bundle from the outside, and chuck it. Leave everything from the driver side in tact, and leave the few wires beside the heater blower assembly in tact.

Unless the PO installed a torque converter lockup system, your TC is not locking, so you're losing fuel economy and running your tranny too warm at highway speeds - get something to lock your TC as well.

vangogh4560

cool ty

vangogh4560

this job is done looks good

redtruck18

I'm fixing to tackle the same basic job, The PO swapped from TBI to Carb, and i've got a few miles of hacked up wiring laying in the now empty engine bay. What all do I need to keep in tact if I only want to run fans, an A/C delete box with heater fan, carb'd motor, and of course all the interior goodies... The motor will be carb'd, HEI, non emissions, with a Holly 750 DP(mech. secondaries). What wiring do I need to keep? Is there a walk through or diagram out there that will simplify this? I am currently rebuilding the 700R4 and will definitely pursue a standalone lockup control unit once finished. Any advice?

camaronewbie

Redtruck18:

Like mentioned, the pass side harness can all go. You need 95% of the driver side harness that comes out of the firewall below the brake booster. There's a thread floating around that details the 2 or 3 wires that can be removed from the driver side harness, but to me wasn't worth the trouble just for those few.

I actually left BOTH harnesses in tact on my car. I find it really convenient to have an existing supply of in-cabin to engine bay wires (the pass side harness). I've used them for many things, like manual fan switches, TC lockup, external lighting (like engine bay lighting and fog lights), etc. All I did was cut the sensor connectors off, and tuck that pass side harness up in the fenderwell - it's there when I need, and totally out of sight when I don't. Very handy to have.

The only other wiring under the hood is the wiring for the heater box/blower - these come out of the firewall right below the box - you want to leave these intact. There are also 2 vacuum lines in this small blower motor harness. One runs from the vacuum system IN to the heater controls, the other runs OUT from the heater controls to the heater diverter valve (if you have) - you want to make sure this OUT line is either used or plugged so your vents still work (otherwise you'll be stuck on the factory default of defrost only).

The TC lockup kit I used was TCI. My only issue with it was the tiny little vacuum switch - it broke less than a week after I bought it (cheap plastic, vac hose nipple broke right off the end). Cost almost as much as a new kit to just get that vacuum switch off of them, so I passed. I just lock it manually with a switch (I still have their solenoid and wiring inside the tranny, but I only use the manual switch provision they provide to activate it). There are several brands, pick your poison.

But before you order - test what you have inside currently! There is a sticky in the carb forum titled "TCC Lockup" - it shows how to test whether you have a normally open (NO) solenoid switch or a normally closed (NC) switch - if you have the right one, you can rig your own switch without replacing anything - saving you some cash!

I deleted cruise control when I went to carb, and I wired the TC lockup function to my cruise control switch - keeps the interior stock (no ugly toggles) and it's easy to reach (right at the steering wheel). I can detail how to wire this if interested.

While you have the tranny out and open, consider if you want the Vette servos/boost valves/etc. "stuff" - would be easier to install now than later under the car. Also, shift kits - much easier while tranny is out. And have the pan tapped for a fluid plug - this was the one thing I forgot to do while my tranny was out and I really wish I had done it.

Good Luck!

KyOutlaw

Can some one tell me whickh wire goes to the temp gauge under the hood and we to locate it! and what is the TC lockup you guys are talking about. Oh ine last thing anyone know where I can find a diagram of the steering column , mine has til and its loose.

Thanks

camaronewbie

KyOutlaw: What year, what motor, what induction (TPI, TBI, carb), what tranny?

Generally, the water temp guage sender is on the driver side head, between the #1 and #3 spak plug - has a single wire to it.

TC lockup is on the 700R4 automatic transmissions - a solenoid inside the transmission opens a valve that forces fluid into the torque converter to fill it up - since it's literally full of fluid, there's no way one half can turn at any different rate than the other half (since there is full amount of fluid on each side of the turbine blades), thus it is "locked", meaning the transmission input is running the same rate as the engine output.

KyOutlaw

Sorry its a 1984 Z28 motor has been changed out from the 305 to a 350 and carbed, I know where the sender unit is on the block just cant find the wire that goes to it. only gauge on my car not to work . oh yeah 700r trans.

camaronewbie

The wire will come out of the driver side wiring harness, near the back of the block on the driver side. To keep it from touching exhaust, I have mine zip-tied to my plug wire loom. Should have a simple female spade conector on it. Good luck!

KyOutlaw

Thanks for all the help , did find the wire had bee cut back behind the distribitor , got my temp gauge working and also to apart my steering and tightened up the 3 torx bolts on the tilt, now it is sweet. I am guessing on the TC lockup you guys are talking about. It must be hooked up. cause I have a very hot motor and the trans seems to work fine. It will lay you flat out back in the seat. I am thinking about putting a stall kit in the trans though, when you shift her into gear she's ready to go. any ideals on this ???

Thanks again!

camaronewbie

What's the idle at?

Angelis83LT

Just a point, but the computer works with the CC Quadrajet that was on there originally to lock up the TC. In order to lock it up if you have removed the computer from the equation you need this.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=

Without it, you are not getting actual lock up. You might think you are, but you aren't There is another one out there as well. I forget but I believe it works on vacuum reference. The thing you need to remember is that the lockup only happens at a set throttle position or below. And it must be in 2nd - 4th gear. it will not do it in first, since if it did it would stall the car.

KyOutlaw

Thanks for all the help on this, the idle is at around 1000rpm's because when I put it in gear it idles at 500 rpm. one other question seems to want to get alittle hot on me when sitting at lights would it help to install a electric fan also since this motor is alittle souped up!

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

Hey I know this is an old post but I was wondering if maybe someone could answer a question, my fan is riged up to come on whenever the key is turned on I want to hook i up to a toggle switch, currently the mechanic who put my new 383 in and re did the wiring the fan has two wires coming off it one is grounded and the power wire is hooked up to a inline fuse spliced to a thick red wire that goes up the driver side wiring harness. I want to know what wire this is and where can I locate it in the interior. Also if I use this wire along with a ground wire hooked up to a toggle switch would this work?

mechanic58

I can see by reading this thread that I should probably go ahead and open up and auto electric shop. This thread made my head hurt.

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

Have any solutions??

mechanic58

Yes, do it right. Buy a 195*F temp switch that will screw into one of the 3/8" pipe thread holes on either cylinder head, use the lead coming from it to ground the coil on a 30A relay. Run a hot wire from your ignition (only hot when key is on) to the other side of the coil. (Coil connections are pin 85 and 86) Then run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the common or line connection on the relay, pin 30. Then run another heavy gauge wire from the normally opened contact (pin 87 I think, 87A is normally closed) to the hot side (+) of your cooling fan motor. Ground the other (-) lead coming from the motor. Now whenever your ignition is turned on and the engine temp is at or above 195*F, the fan will come on automatically.

MSRed91Camaro

iTrader: (2)

Im still curious though anyone know what this red wire is?

mechanic58

Just because its coming from the 'factory' harness bundle doesn't necessarily mean it was there originally. Obviously it's wire that has 12v on it...or is supposed to. Trace it out - if you can't do that then you shouldn't even be messing with it in the first place. Good luck.

Edit: It's probably the charge wire coming from the post on the back of the alternator - assuming you still have the model year correct accessory drive on your engine with the alt mounted on the driver's side.