rspain85

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum. Just bought my first 3rd Gen and must say I'm in love, and this forum seems like the place to be!

It's a 1992 Z28 with a 305 TPI and 700R4. I have a 350 on a stand that im getting ready to build with vortec heads. I was originally going to go carb, but I found out that there are TPI intakes for vortec heads, so now I'm thinking about going that route.

How much of the TPI stuff could I re-use from my 305? Throttle body and injectors too small I'm guessing. Also figure i will have to do some stuff with the computer, but I stepped into the PROM forum and quickly got overwhelmed in there lol. I'm just trying to get familiar with these cars and get some good info to help me decide which way to steer my build. This forum looks like a great place to be. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

88gta3508

this swap type has been posted way to many times
if you searched it's in there
Quick list
Knock sensor 305 vs 350 different
eprom flash to match 350
injectors 19 lbs 305 vs 22 lbs 350
all other TPI parts are the same

89fbirdformula

Dont bother going with the vortec TPI intake...

my setup ran well, but it lacked.

im hoping the new path, works MUCH better.

get a holley stealthram for vortec heads, along with what the above posted mentioned.

rspain85

88gta3508 I was afraid someone would say that right off the bat, I forgot to mention that i tried the search function and didnt really come up with a thread that answered my questions.

The stealth ram is a complete standalone FI setup isnt it?

89fbirdformula

No, you can buy just the intake and fuel rails by themselves..

tpi harness + pcm will run it just fine.

rspain85

Yeah ok I see that now, just found a good post about it here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...gal-whats.html

Looks like a sweet way to go, another question though, would my 305 TPI throttle body work on the stealth ram?

89fbirdformula

yes, it will work.

rspain85

Do you happen to have a P/N and any place recommended to buy from?

89fbirdformula

weiand 7542 for the intake, 534-193 for the rails with adjustable regulator, 534-192 for the non adjustable.

i got mine from summit racing, they were one of the few who had it in stock.

88gta3508

The HSR is a great intake.. there fuel rail kit is a rip OFF for what you get.. but it's plug and play.. I made my own using FAST rails.. with AN lines.. converted A Holley TPI AFR to AN fittings... if you jump up to the HSR !!! I would install 24 lbs injectors.. this intake loves to be advanced.. 10 deg is where it starts to come alive!!!! I would get at least a 52mm TB
the HSR will accept a 58mm TB from the factory.. again you will need someone to program your eprom or it will be a waste of time running on a factory curve!!!
!!!!you will not regret purchasing a HSR!!!!!
PS keep in mind there is no EGR... check your states emissions LAW

rspain85

Thanks guys for all the great info. Yeah the more I read the more i make up my mind, you guys have pretty much sold me on the Stealth Ram. I figured on the 24# injectors already. Do you think a guy can get by with the stock TB for awhile? What size is the stock TB? I'm going to just give a quick rundown of my engine build as of how i've kinda got it planned for now.

350 that will be .40 over when i get the block back

Stock crank and rods

Pistons yet to be bought, havent decided on them yet

Vortec heads that I have already swapped springs and modified retainers to accept my cam that I already had

Cam that I have right now is a Lunati Voodoo:

• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .468/.489

I'm not sure on what your guys' ideas are on what cam to run with the stealth ram intake

88gta3508

The stock TB is 48mm
you should really consider at least a ZZ4 steel crank... I would install ARP bolts
drill the rods dead center at the wrist pin. you can remove over 120grams per rod
have it balanced
will your springs handle 1.6 rockers???? this will add .30 = .498 / .519

rspain85

I already have ARP main bolts, rod bolts, head bolts, and intake bolts.

Is there a reason why you recommend a steel crank? I figured that the stock crank would be good enough for what i'm doing with this motor, but then again I just know enough to be dangerous lol.

I dont know if my springs will handle 1.6 rockers, for what reasons wouldnt they?

I like the idea of drilling the rods to lighten them. I've only built a couple motors that were basically stock for old 4 wheel drive play trucks. I've never built a motor like this and tried to get every ounce of performance I can for my money. I love little tips and tricks.

88gta3508

cast crank is weak & softer.. not as smooth as steel.. your bottom end will handle almost anything you throw at it...
the spring height to coil bind.. would need to be set up... for 1.6 if used.. if you don't check they give you a vented PISTON that would suck

you can grind the sides of the rods to eliminate the cast marks.. if you drill the ends use a mic & mark dead center.. do not drill bigger then 1/8... and deburr
again assembly's need to be balanced.. so lighten first..
PS the hole is to provide better oil to the wrist PIN

rext

Not hijacking but just laying down a baseline.
If you have a 305 TPI car/motor could you just install a 350 TPI motor (complete) in its place? Say it is a '90-92 to keep it simple for both.I believe the chip has to be replaced in the computer, but is that all as long as the factory 350 TPI is complete?Literally lift it out of one car and put it in the other. Everything else being the same.