NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

I know ultimately it's my car, my decision, etc but just looking opinions on 5 speed swapping this car.


I've had it for 5 years, am the 3rd owner, and it has just under 100k miles on it. It is optioned very oddly, so that curbs my enthusiasm on just throwing a manual in it, but I've had the itch for another stick thirdgen a lot lately.

It has original paint(7/10) except the front lip someone did a long time ago and is original minus wear parts, freshly refinished wheels that look awesome, radio has an aux port, side bolster repaired in drivers seat, and a Gale Banks exhaust installed in 1989.(has carb sticker under hood)

-Lear seigler in tan (one year only in tan. seats in great shape, needs carpet)
-TPI
-power antenna
-overhead console
-3.42 rear gear with posi
-hardtop
-GM 140 speedo
-clean carfax
-rear wiper


Just a cool, oddly optioned car. I'd probably want too much of I sold it(12k), so looking at swapping it if I keep it.

What kind of value depreciation do you think I'd see if i did the swap?! I have a wc t5 from my 87 Iroc i previously owned....

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty invasive...

Trans tunnel (or SERIOUS modification of your existing one... eeeeeeeezier to cut it out and weld/rivet in the corresponding part out of another car), console top, shifter, pedals, trans, clutch, BH, hydraulics, … abuncha stuff. ALOT more than just the T-5 itself. You pretty much need A WHOLE other car, with all of that still INTACT, to cut up and throw away to really do it right. I don't know that I'd want to also cut up a nice clean car like that, but of course that's just personal opinion.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

The hydraulics are easy. You can see where the hole needs to go on the firewall and even the insulation. Then get the pedals with the support rods. Cutting the tunnel is easy with the boot as a template. The support ring can be found on ebay sometimes. I fabricated my own. Do fix the column interlock. Then some wiring which is oretty easy. I'd do it

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

If you're like me and don't plan on selling it ever, you have the whole kit to do it, then screw it, change it.
If you feel you may get bored of it or want to move on, more value in it as it sits I would think.
I thought about changing my 77 over to a 4 speed but it's just fine with an auto, I have all my other rides for manual trans fun.

burnout88

An TPI yellow IROC with a 5-speed screams awesome! I would do it but only if you have the skill to do it the right way. Every installed piece like the factory. Column, hydraulics, Trans tunnel, etc. everything done the right way from a donor car. If you can’t do it to this level then do not do it.

LeonardS

Leave it alone. If you want a 5 spd, save your money and buy one when you can.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Most people don't take the time, or put in the effort to do the job right. That applies to all projects on thirdgens, not just 5spd swaps. Even the pictures posted in this thread are half way there. You can cut corners, but then you can also tear the car apart to weld up a cracked firewall too. A T5 is kind of a ho-hum trans under ideal conditions. When it's a used trans from a donor vehicle, swapped in by a previous owner, that takes away something from a stock setup. I don't know, but if I were buying, I'd rather a stock car with an auto than one with a swapped in 5spd, just because I wouldn't trust a seller to have done the job right. It'd be a "that's too bad, what other cars are for sale?" for me.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm well aware of what it takes to do it right, it's a lot of work! Look at my past post and builds on here, you'll see some of my previous work. I also have a 5 speed car sitting in a parts area that I could have everything off of.

I do agree it may be worth more time/money than the "fun factor" in the long run though.

Leaning towards keeping it as is and just picking up an original 5 speed car if I find one I like!


Thanks everyone...

85@IRocZ

iTrader: (6)

Being that it's a yellow iroc that's nice and original if it were mine i would leave it and find a 5sp car

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I'd just find a 5 speed car.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

Leave it to the restoration crowd to get all squeamish and talk you out of it....

This is a 100k mile car people. How many times have I heard people say how much they prefer a low miles car because everything is still tight and factory fresh? According to many on here this car is now nearly worthless as a collectible because of the miles. The OP admitted the paint is 7-10 with some paint work, combine that with the miles and the people saying avoid a 5 speed swap wouldn't touch this car with a 10ft pole anyway.

It's your car, swap it over if you want to. No reason to keep people happy here that would never be potential buyers for your car anyway. The hardest part of the swap in my opinion (I've done six manual swaps on thirdgens) comes because it's an '85 and you can't easily burn chips for it. If it were my car I'd 100% swap it to a stick, and see how it does on the stock tune. It might drive and transition just fine, but I'd be ready to convert it over to 86-89 165 ECM if you weren't happy with the tune.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, that is the one thing I have not though about, the tune. I have converted a 86-89 to SD in my younger days, but never messed with the slow 85 computer.

I do think I will focus on building my LS/turbo build in my other yellow Iroc and cruise this one as is. I do enjoy it a lot, just want to shift some gears sometimes!

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

.

steves

MC_87

Love the car! Original yellow with gold pkg like my 87 but I have black int. Mines hardtop as well with 305 tpi auto but quick off the line..i like the auto and wouldnt swap mine but its all up to you. If you sell the car swapping it might hury the value but if you keep it and swapping to a stick is what you want then do it. If you want my opinion since its a nice car I wouldn't do anything that cant be changed back to original and keep all the parts you swap out. Good luck

KMK454

Swap it or sell it for a manual. Sounds like you aren't completely happy with the car because it's missing a third pedal. I wouldn't be either.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Chris; It's your ride,..... make it your own. It's great car as is but as others have pointed out - While very cool, in awesome condition, and certainly a valuable car as it sits, it's still got mileage that will keep it from being a top dollar collector car.

If you do decide to convert No matter what: DO NOT USE THE CARPET / FIREWALL INSULATION AS A GUIDE for the Clutch Master Cylinder U-bolt hole locations !!! ( BY FAR the WORST MISTAKE you could make during this conversion. ) If these 2 holes are off - even just a little - the rod will not travel IN/OUT of the Master properly and will cause the seal to fail or the rod to bind - or worse, bend. If you want to convert to a stick and do not want to deal with problems later - do it right the first time.

Buy pedals for hydraulic clutch ( has rod supports on each side for U-Bolt )
Install the manual pedals
Push each of the support rods up against the firewall as hard as you can. (Support rods MUST touch the firewall without any padding/insulation in between them ! ) Mark each of the support rod holes.
Remove the manual pedals.
Drill the 2 U-Bolt holes.
Using the Clutch master and slave assembly,... cut a template from a piece of paper cut the template so that the support rod holes and Master hole is cut out. Fit the paper template onto the Master as if it was the firewall. BE SURE all template holes match the Master exactly. Remove template from the Master and hold it up to the firewall lining up the 2 rod holes previously drilled through the firewall,... mark the Master hole on the firewall.
Cut the Master hole,... start small & slowly enlarge. Repeatedly temp install the Master & U Bolt from inside the engine bay and keep enlarging the hole till the Master can be mounted easily and fits properly.
Install the pedals
Install the U-Bolt and Master/Slave

** DO NOT connect the Master Rod to the pedals yet. You do NOT want to mistakenly step on that pedal if the rod is connected and the Slave is not yet installed on the tranny !

If those 2 support Rod holes are not properly located,...... you can expect a short lifespan for the Master.

Factory 5-speed cars have a bracket that's spot welded to the trans tunnel under the car. It helps to support the big hole in the floor and adds a little more metal for the boot screws to grab onto. While not critical,........ if you can find one - or fabricate one - I would recommend getting / making one and installing it.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Who did your wheels, Chris?

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

I was where you were a month ago. I decided to leave mine as-is for now. The car would be a lot more fun as a 5-speed and doing it right isn't an issue. If I was sure I wouldn't ever want to sell it, I would do the conversion. My car is like this car- higher mileage, nice condition, and its driver's car meant to be enjoyed, not a garage queen.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Everything is better with a stick!

I had fun converting my '83 Crossfire, with 1MeanZ's help. It was fun tracking down all the parts and planning for it. For me it kind of scratched the itch of what would a Crossfire drive like with a stick and better exhaust, the way GM should have done it. I'm glad I did it, but doubt I'd do it again. I mean, there are soooo many cars out there to choose from. I had fun driving it with a stick and put thousands of miles on it, but when it came time to sell, you are in pretty deep.

But like they say, it's a hobby not a business!

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

This man is 100% correct. This is the exact method I use.

MANUAL TRANS WINS THE DRIVING EXPERIENCE AWARD EVERY TIME, SWAP IT!

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Who said to use the insulation as a template? I know this is directed at me. I said it shows you where the hole should go. All my fkin words are weighed here. Converted 6 3rd gens to manuals. I guess I got lucky they all function properly or I have a holy step drill 🙄

Good luck yall Im done with this forum. Miss the old days without the a holes. Been a member for like forever but i probably overstayed my welcone.

Tomorrow would have been 19 years. Nice. No rolex for me

George Klass

I would swap it for sure. Yes, original is always nice but if you perform the swap and have it exactly as is it would have been off the line definitely do it.

If I was looking for one and saw the swap was done right it wouldn't bother me at all.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Truer words were never said

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

I certainly wasn't accusing you of that at all, just highlighting someone that spent the time to specifically note a method I thought was really good. I didn't think you were suggesting anyone use the insulation as a template.

Saxondale

iTrader: (2)

Likely known to you already, and essentially irrelevant to this discussion, ‘87 IROC Zs originally had non world-class T5s.

Thanks for your patience.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

My almost EVERYONE misses, one of the most important parts of an auto to manual swap, and even John hasn't mentioned it in his well written post. As important as the hole locations are, the firewall doubler plate is AS IMPORTANT to the firewall for longevity as are the hole locations. If you don't put in the doubler the firewall will eventually crack, not if, but when. Without that extra sheet metal the metal will fatigue and crack. Out of all the 5/6 speed swaps I have seen here, I think I have only seen one or two people actually put the doubler plate in, and i have seen several other posts of T5/6 speed swaps where the firewall is cracked because they din't put it in. If you're going to do it, do it right.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

I did my first manual swap in a thirdgen in 2005. I still have the car probably 20k miles later and no cracks, and that's the one I don't put miles on. My GTA and my old '91 TA I put 30k miles on each of them and neither cracked. The TA was crushed in a storm, the GTA still going strong. The doubler is preferable, but not mandatory IMO if the hole is properly cut and deburred.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

https://offerup.com/item/detail/690985966/

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for all of the information, ideas, etc in the thread.

First.... car is tentatively for sale.

12k. Probably a little high, but if I dont get it, I'll keep it. No biggie. I love the car, just want a stick, t top car for my next cruiser.

We redid the wheels. We stripped the clear, compounded the gold, sanded the bare aluminum and then recleared the entire wheel. We then added the factory style steel valve stems and new tires. (245/50)

I also think I want a TPI 5 speed.

Maybe I'll get my enthusiasm up and write a for sale ad soon.

Thanks everyone