itsMikey

alright so heres what my pull down is doing...

it wont latch at all to begin with. but when i plug the motor in, it just runs without the latch parts moving up or down..so would drilling these holes mentioned
here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...nverision.html

work for mine? even though its not working?

when i shut the hatch, it sounds like the hatch is closing before it even hits the latch part.

itsMikey

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/198...pair-p-86.html

should i just buy this? or the screw thing?

just screwing in the screws and making it a mechanical unit would be better but idk if it'll work with what mine is doing..

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Don't try and hack it up. There are actually very few parts to the rear hatch assembly.

There is a striker switch (that small lever that the metal latch presses down to start the "down" cycle.)

There is a reversing switch. Basically a glorified on/off light switch. This makes the "click" sound you hear at the end of the down cycle and start of the up cycle.

Hatch motor. Self explanatory.

Gear nut, that spins up and down depending on opening/closing.

Guides (white molded type deal that the hatch assembly raises up and lowers down on)

All of this stuff is available from TDS at the following site: http://www.top-downsolutions.com/ Lon can walk you through all of this stuff. The hatch motor is a simple fix. I took the entire thing apart on my table and rebuilt it in about 10 minutes. And I went for new everything.

itsMikey

which one should i get though?

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/198...pair-p-86.html

this one? or the other less expensive one?

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you beat me to the website. Try this for the moment. Lift up your hatch and leave it up. Take your finger and push down on the striker switch. It will be a tiny lever on the driver's side of the area the latch would latch into.

Hold the striker switch down. You should hear it click at the end of the cycle......Now release your finger from it. You should hear it click at the end of the cycle. You should also see the whole assembly move down with your finger in it. And see it raise back up with your finger out.

This is simulating closing the hatch. Sometimes, it's a simple case of the motor is halfway through the cycle and stuck there. Running the striker switch with your finger gets your motor aligned back in the end area where it should be.

It could be as simple as the gear nut is old and stripped. Thus when the motor runs, it's not moving up and down as it should. The gear nut is cheap. $7

One thing I would absolutely recommend though is getting the guides. Mine looked great just staring down at them from outside the car. Once I took the assembly apart, they broke apart into several pieces. So definitely get the guides. It's a case of everybody's are 20+ years old and the old style is just worn out.

itsMikey

I held it down and it didn't do anything, ,I know what your talking about tho because I've had to do that before

So what do you think I should buy?

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

That's normal.

If you're holding down the striker switch and nothing is happening (hatch motor not going down, no noise at all), then you either have a bad striker switch or a bad reversing valve. PM me your email and I can send you a picture for checking the continuity of your reversing valve (My reversing valve was bad in my car. The up cycle worked, but not the down cycle. Hence my hatch would latch into place, but not pull itself down)


I recommend also recommend the $78 kit instead of the $115 kit. Your motor still works. On the other hand, if you're going to take it apart, you might as well replace it all. I did. The newer motor that TDS sells sounds a bit nicer than the old motor. My old housing wasn't cracked, but I can see how his reinforced one would be stronger for the future. The guides are a must.

amlv20

how are your power and grounds? check the switches also.

92CamaroKyle

I had the same problem and disconnected the power wire and adjusted the nut mechanism down enough to hold the hatch tight against the rubber stops. Works fine with key, and a cheap quick fix. Only took three times in and out to get it perfect.

itsMikey

which nut mechanism??

itsMikey

will do tomorrow

92CamaroKyle

The main plastic one that screws the catch up and down via the electric motor.

itsMikey

which side is it on??

92CamaroKyle

Pretty much in the center. If you take it apart you will see what I mean. It was a trial and error to get it set at the proper height to hold the hatch down so it doesn't rattle. Bolts on the side just attach the assembly to the body.

Berlyn0963

iTrader: (4)

im going to have to check that website . good info. those plastic guides really fall apart and crumble just by looking at em its annoying.i wonder y gm would use an inferior plastic since most other plastics last forever.

BOD1979

iTrader: (1)

how do you test the motor? Mine was working fine. I opened it the other day heard the motor for a second now nothing. I have power on the red w/ white strip wire. I took it out and have it on the bench. I want to test the motor to see if thats the problem.

itsMikey

theres no striker switch in the 115$ one though so do i need to buy

this:
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/198...pair-p-86.html

and this:
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/rec...down-p-62.html

?? or just the first one?

itsMikey

Okay so the switch IS working..the thing just isnt moving up to grab the hatch

amlv20

can you hear the motor working? if so tear it apart and check vertical gear, might be stripped, metal gear on motor turning a plastic gear causes it to strip over time.

itsMikey

yeah the motor is working fine..

which part do i take apart to see?

and is this what id need?
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/gea...nits-p-46.html

mrrman

I may have the same issue with my motor...will look into this further

itsMikey

which one do i need guys???

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

If the gear nut is stripped, the whole unit would either stay up, or down. I had the dang instructions to disasemble the unit but I probably threw them away. If Im able to find it, ill scan it and post it up for you. But its not that hard to open it up. The hardest part I found was removing the whole motor housing from the metal mechanism/body. Once you remove the whole clear plastic away from the whole metal body, you remove I think its 3 or 4 screws. Then the gear nut will be accessable. Then remove and inspect the grooves. caution!!! When you reinstall the screws back into the clear p[lastic housing, dont over tighten them because youll strip out the threads or crack the plastic where the screw goes.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Mikey...Have you taken it apart yet to see whats busted or stripped?

In any case..you should really give Lon a holler. Either call top down, or PM him on here. By far one of the most helpful and knowledgable guys when it comes to pull downs and other odd parts on our cars. He'll get you pointed in the right direction, and if you are ordering from his site, he'll get you great parts quickly.

It sounds to me like the housing is damaged. Causing the worm gear and drive gear to not mesh. The housings breaks from slamming down the hatch, or even from hitting a hard bump while driving. The plastic gets old and brittle. That $115 deluxe kit is a nice kit. Those guides are great and will tighten up the entire assembly and make it move smooth. He reinforces his housings with metal and epoxy in the weak spots so it helps it last a little longer. It should get you back in working condition.

I used that kit way back in my 87 and it still works 100%. Im going to remove it and put it in my 86 before the 87 goes to car heaven.

But get ahold of Lon if you still arent sure...

J.

itsMikey

alright..yeah i know Lon..great guy..ill probably give him a call but im gonna take it off the car in a bit and just inspect it because i dont wanna spend the 115$ if i dont have to..

if anything else, i think i just need the gear nut and the guides..right?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

It smiley,on doesnt live far from you. I believe he lives some where around the City of Industry. Thinking about movi g back to Hemet. Better job opportunities.

itsMikey

yeah he does...

so i took it off the car and the guides are done so ill be getting those but i dont see this gear nut..is it inside the actual motor housing?

and the housing is cracked where one of the holding screws go in but i dont think thats doing anything because the motor still works

im convinced its just the gear nut and guides.. but wheres the gear nut??

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

The gear nut is inside the housing.

itsMikey

Great lol..will check it out later

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I search all over my computer, trying to find the picture of how to test the reversing valve for continuity....I can't find it. But that's alright. Lon mailed it to me originally anyways. I'm sure he still has it.

itsMikey

took the metal part of the motor off and didnt see the gear nut but i think i may have broken it more when i put it back in/on..

gonna PM Lon right now and see whats up..

bitchin_buick

I replaced relay, no workey! Sprayed mechanisms' with Wd40 and stuck motor mech. with small flathead screwdriver carefully down the center while hitting the release inside the car/key, (simulation of open/closer) I quickly read your thread and may have missed something so I apologize if I overlooked anything. Motor may work, but works correctly if the mech. is in the right spot to the receive hatch.........

itsMikey

yours sounds kinda like mine..think its just the guide and the gear nut

DizzTransAm

Go to a self service junkyard, find any cadillac 75-2000 ish pull out trunk pull down motor and compare for parts.