BadaPwned

Just over the weekend I took my car to a dyno at Wyotech in PY. My buddy went to to school there and his instructor tuned my car for free.

To say the least, my first pull was around 290 HP and something like 300 ft/bs.

The car was way lean and was starving for fuel, so after going up say.....eight jet sizes on the holly 750 dbl pumper, the final numbers were,

340 HP
320 ft/lbs

The motor has a 750 dbl pumper, vr jr. intake, Brodix T1 heads, possibly stock bottom end (dont ask, long story lol)

Here is my cam, its an Engle cam. 1025EP-25.507"

.507"280°
280°.338"
.338"244°
244°108°
Powerband 2500-6500

The trans a TH350 with a stupidly violent shift.

Also, as far as my stall goes, I thought it was around 3k - 3.5k, definetly not the case either. The stall was around 4.5k.

The RPM's would shoot instanlty to 4.5 then it would start to climb like it normally would.

All in all, I would estimate the motor being anywhere from 400 - 450 hp.

The motor is in a 84 TA, my best track time was 12.6 @ 107.

I have since then tuned the engine, went from 3.71 to 4.56 gears, and have a 150 shot of nitrous.


My end goal is 12 flat w/o the giggly spray, 11.5 with spray.

What do you guys think?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Sounds to be about 425ish FWHP to me, not bad, you have no idea what the compression is either do you?

BadaPwned

Nope, to say the least, the guy who rebuilt the motor for me was a shady dumbf***. I should have done it myself. This is why I said "possibly stock bottom end" because the guy didn't know what it was. Not to mention everything he has told me so far has been completely wrong lol.

I would estimate the CR to be around 10:1 give or take one lol.

I was making plans to build a 383 when this motor blew, but I figured why dump so much money into the car, its not a race car by any means. Just one of my hobbies. So, when I put the giggly gas to her, hopefully she stays together, if not, as long as my heads stay safe im OK with it blowin.

My end goal is just to get 12 flat in the 1/4 and 11.5 with spray. I think it can be done...

Here is my car BTW,

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2372309

Does look different now, those are older pics...

Thanks for the help.

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

4.56 is a really low gear. Are you ever going to drive this on the street? If you run a 12.5 right now and put a 150 shot, that should put you in the 11.50 range

BadaPwned

This is going to be my everyday car for the summer. (minus the rainy days....)

I dont know why people complain about having 4.56 on a street car. Its not like im trying to save gas money lol,

I put the 4.56 so my trap rpm would be better.

With my 3.73, 29.5" Diam tires, my trap rpm was around 4.5k, I am hoping now that my trap rpm is around 6.5k with 28" tires, my shift point and around my peak HP.

EDIT** I also did it so I would launch harder, I forget my 60' time but it was launching like a minivan.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

The 4.56 gears just suck for highway, around town they're not really a problem. What stall converter are you running?

BadaPwned

To be honest, I didn't notice the difference in highway driving from when I had 3.73 to 4.56. Its probably because of my stall.

When I bought the car the guy said he had a 3k or 3.5k (dont remember) in it.

But, after watching my car run on the dyno, everyone there agreed that I must have around a 4.5k stall. As soon as the gas was stepped on it would shoot instantly to 4.5k then start climbing as if it was gaining speed on the road.

So...driving around 70 mph with 3.73 or 4.56 I was around 4.5k give or take 500 rpm. I now think I didnt notice the difference becuase of my stall, thanks for pointing that out....

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

with my 3.90 gears and 3500 stall converter I am going through the traps just at redline

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

For me at about 55 mph the engine is turning about 4,000 lol been a while since I took it on the highway. I'm still running 26 inch tires for the street and 28x9 slicks at the track. Crosses the line at about 6800-7000 on a motor pass.

BadaPwned

Thats exactly what im looking for, pulling 6500 - 7000 rpm at the trap.

Whats your trap speed EvilCartman?

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

114 mph, almost 115 last time out.

BadaPwned

Have you had your car dynoed?

Just curious what your rwhp is.....

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Nope, haven't been on a dyno but I'm guessing it's about 420 to the wheels.

BadaPwned

Quite a bit of power, that's a 500+ HP motor.....

Isnt your motor a 355?

I guess its possible, your heads flow a little better then mine, your cam is a little bigger.

Hell, what do I know, im coming here for advice lol.....Cool cool, keep up the good work,

Pretty soon im going to have the same exact car as you lol.

O, one more thing, when I run my car at the track, Ill let you know what 340 rwhp does with a full interior 84 T/A with a TH350, 4.56 rear end and 28" tires does lol.

Gimme that 12' flat baby, im here all night........

Big, White & Sl

Your motor is very similar to mine I have a 355, track 1 heads, 12.5:1, a hair bigger cam(276@.050 & .540 lift), victor jr, 850dp, & 4500stall with a 4.56 gear. My car weighs 3200 with me in it(it's gutted). I've gone 11.78 in the 1/4 first time out(7.60 in the 1/8) and gone 1 1/2 tenths faster(7.45) @ the local 1/8 mi track the 2nd time out. There's plenty more left in it. I was only able to leave @ 2000rpm because I hadn't done the manual brake conversion yet and couldn't hold the car on the line. Putting a transbrake glide in now and should see some real improvement. Anyways, you should have no problem reaching the goals you've got.

BadaPwned

Appreciate the input.

So far, everyone I have shown loves my car, when I start it they jump back every time lol

Gotta love the spintechs......

Ill let you guys know what I run when im done, hopefully in the next week or so.

Im hoping to finish my manual brake conversion today.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

lol yeah, still a 355, guess I got lucky with the parts combo. First time out I ran mid 13's then changed things here and there to get it running where it is now. Hoping to swap in a roller cam maybe next month, just need to buy pushrods and lifters. Got a custom cam from a car that was running 10.80's on the motor that I want to try out.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

my converter does that on the dyno as well, but its still too tight when i run the car on motor. going to 3.89's over 4.56's didnt change my 1/8 mile et a bit. (mph slightly slower, though.) i would run something more like that on the street over a 4.56.

i have a stock LT1 with ported stock heads and a 23x/24x hydro roller cam. it dynoes 425ish rwhp.
th400, 3600 stall, 9" ford rear with 3.89 gears. 28" hoosier slicks.
3100lb raceweight
7.12@98 with a 1.55 60' in the 1/8, never ran on motor in the 1/4.

BadaPwned

Ahh, whats the deal with that? I thought converters were suppose to lock up at the rated RPM?

I finished my manual brake conversion last night. The brakes are a million times better then they were. I bought the smith performance kit.

They still need some tweakage, the peddle travels a little to far and the pads dont seem like their grabbing that well....

I took her for a spin last night, man that feeling never gets old lol

I made plans to run Wednesday at that track. Im not worried about the giggly spray yet, trying to get all the little things worked out...

Ill keep you guys updated.....

Thanks for your input......

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

got a buddy that swapped a nitrous converter in his car and lost over 100rwhp. it was just "slipping" the whole time and never locked up so to speak. however, with a 300 shot it hauls.

BadaPwned

Update: Well guys, I got some bad news.

My "fresh" motor has a ton of blow by......sweet huh.....

I have always noticed the smoke coming from my valve cover breathers, but on Saturday it got worse.

My driver side breather got saturated with oil and starting to spray it all over my engine bay / headers etc.

So, I rigged up a PCV system with a catch can. Within a 10 or 15 minutes of drive time I can collect say anywhere from 1 to 2 tea spoons of oil in the catch can.

I haven't even called the guy who did the motor. I know he did a shitty job, now im paying for it.

Im still debating on what im going to do. I hate dumping money into the car knowing ill never see it again.

If the weather permits, I am still going to run at the track on Wednesday to see what times I can come up with.

At this point, I am kind of looking for a machined block, possibly from someone who is strapped for cash lol

I know my block is toast, one of the head bolt holes needed to be helicoiled, the engine leaks oil under one of the heads.... etc etc

So, that's all I got. Im hoping to build a new motor for cheap. Im hoping to have a balanced / assembled short block for no more then $1,500 bucks.


If I could turn back time, I would have never given my motor to this guy lol...o well, live and learn...

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about the bad luck :/

bart91406

Well, I am sorry to hear of your misfortune, but I would not give up on the block yet, there are plugs on the driver side of the block that can leak, and I would guess that is the oil leak. Helicoiled threads are not a bad deal, in fact, AFR heads have many threads helicoiled out of the box, because the helicoiled threads are actually HARDER to strip in aluminum, I am sure a heli coil in a cast iron block will have near the same thread strength as the original thread.

I would guess your problem is a broken ring, or if you run hyper pistons, possibly a broken ring land from insufficient ring gap. I would pull it apart, find out what kind of bottom end you do have, what is wrong with it, and from there decide what it needs, You may get by with one replacement piston and a new set of rings, or you may have to just start over, but i would not give up on it just yet.

BadaPwned

I dunno, im so disgusted with the whole situation. Im contemplating what I should even do with the car.

I would estimate anywhere from 8k - 12k of money wrapped up into it.

The damn car probably isn't even worth 6k lol....not sure what to do.

Anyone got any suggestions?

bart91406

I probably have 20k in my car, it might be worth six in this economy. A good part of that 20 grand is from redoing engines, rear ends, and tons of other stuff twice do to my own mistakes! I guess it is just part of the hobby! The only way to have a hot rod worth what you have spent is to buy it already done, otherwise it will probably be worth about half of what you spend.

BadaPwned

Ya, not that anyone can be thinking investment with the hobby lol.


Whats real frustrating is my father keep pushing me about it. Try this, do that, look at this, read this.....

He thinks all the oil going into my valve cover is going towards the back then getting pushed out by it getting bounced around by my rocker arms etc. As far as I know, millions of cars have a breather hole towards the back of the valve cover, none of the normal running cars have oil coming out them.

Do you guys get smoke coming from both your breathers?

If you guys take your breather off and put your hand over the hole can you feel the air pulsing on your hand at idle?

I just don't see it being anything else. I have tried so many things to remedy the problem. I just don't think oil should be able to come up through my breather so easily.

bart91406

All motors will have a little blow-by, It should not have much being a fresh motor, but I have seen a share of fresh motors have more than I would I expect.Really, the best way to tell the extent of the problem, is to do a compression test on all the cylinders, if you have one that is considerably lower than the rest, than you found the culprit.

Do your valve covers have baffles? if not, than I would not be to suprised to see a strong vacuum signal pick up some oil, even with breathers I guess that some of the vapor could escape, but not in the amounts you are describing. How much smoke does come out of the valvecover with no breather? If it really seems excessive a motor teardown may be necesarry, but it will not be the end of the world, it may just need a hone and fresh rings.

BadaPwned

We have a fresh bottom end on a truck at work. The motor is 7.4 vortec (454) , pulling the PCV and putting your hand over the valve cover there is very little to no pressure. I would think since the pistons are larger then mine, I would feel even more pressure on every PS, not the case.

As far as actually seeing smoke, I would guess my motor has more then the 454. So, I dunno, lol.

Im still going to run it tonight. I got to finish my line lock and ill be ready to go.

For the compression test, can I do it cold or does it have to be warm. I know on a 2-stroke it doesnt matter.....

BadaPwned

sooo, im at work and thought ide let you guys know im excited for racing later.

For whatever reason my heart just starts thumping whenever I start thinking about it lol.

I have driven the car hundreds of times before and been racing before and it never goes away lol, you guys the same way?

Hell, im even a salesman, I don't even get this excited when im giving speaches to groups lol.

bart91406

I am the same way, especially on the first pass of the season, it is amazing the adrealine you can get just sitting in your car waiting for the lights!

BadaPwned

Alright guys, just got back from the track....

First off, I am having horrible over heating problems, every run I had to let the car cool down....PITA

Also, once it hits 220 it starts missfiring like its nobody's business, not sure why this is either.

Heres my best time:

60ft - 1.7370
330 - 5.1389
1/8 - 7.9398
1/8 mph - 87.56
1000' ET - 10.3679
1000' MPH - 100.42
1/4 ET - 12.4059
1/4 MPH - 112.72


So, not as quick as I was hoping. I could probably launch a little harder with my new brake pads. I was having a hard time from keeping my back tires spinning at the tree. (my front tires have the new pads, my backs are still my old shitty ones, havent had time to change them yet)

I was launching about 3,600 RPM, im pretty sure I could hit 4K once I put my different pads on.


So....pulling off the 12 flat probably wont happen, well see what happens.....

Not sure what the car weights, its completely stock except the motor, trans, hood and headliner. So, basically factory weight with me in it soo, maybe 3,600 - 3,800 total? best guess....

elano

iTrader: (2)

With 112mph trap, you should be able to get a faster et! 12.4 is pretty darn good too tho.

RED_DRAGON_85

about the blowby...
mine has basically the same deal.
the prev owner had the engine swapped to a 350 and rebuilt.
according to him, he spent 4k on parts for the motor but ran out of money and had it built for $250 including labor by a buddy of a friends sisters aunts son.... you get the picture

as far as the blowby is concerned, i have a breather on each valve cover the driver side is right about in the middle, the pass side is 3/4 to the back.
if you unplug either of them, it looks like i am purging my nitrous ( i dont have nitrous )
needless to say, i have pretty bad blowby.

the worst part is that it gets so bad that the pcv system cant flow enough to keep pressure from building up and oil gets forced past the rear main seal, so now my rear main is on its way out...

eventually i am going to need a block, because this one is already 0.060 over, and was never machined or honed into spec so i wouldnt be suprised if the cylinder walls are completely shot.

but enough about my junk

BadaPwned

Ya, I know what ya mean.

Ive just decided im going to run it. If it blows it blows, not sure what else to do.

Right now theirs other little things im trying to workout. I have an over heating issue, I put a new water pump pulley on the motor back when I had it rebuilt, but its to big. And of course summit or jegs rarely states what sizes the pulleys are. So, thats kinda where im at.

Atleast we have learned our lesson lol. I will never have anyone touch any of my motors unless they have a real shop and actualy understand what boring and honing are for....

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Wow, what a saga! I tuned in for the first post and somehow got cought up.

Anyway, about the first post. With 340 RWHP you should be able to find a 11.80 pass in there. Mine made 375 and times are in sig.

About the blowby....That sux!

BiGgE

iTrader: (2)

In my experience, it is not uncommon to have large amounts of blowby in a new motor, at least until the rings seat. As far as the overheating goes, is it going through water, or just running hot?

Anyways, if I were you I would be tempted to get to the bottom of the problems rather than running it till it blows up. I would bet it'd be a lot cheaper to fix than starting over.

bart91406

I am willing to bet that you blew your rear main seal after a wide open run, right? The reason I say this, is that the pcv system you are using to alleviate crankcase pressure, or in your case blow by, is not designed in the way you would think.

The pcv system works off vaccum, which works well cruising around town, but on a WOT run, when crankcase pressure is at its peak, your motor will have basically no vaccum to pull out the pressure. So now, instead of helping to draw out pressure, it is actually acting as a cork and preventing it from escaping. So naturally the pressure escapes the easiest path. I have seen it blow out rear main seals, dipsticks, intake seals, etc.

The cure for this is often just a header evac kit.Which uses the exhaust pressure in your headers to create a vaccum to evacuate the crankcase, and with this kind of vaccum, it will increase with throttle, and be highest at wot, when you need it most.

This will not fix exsessive blowby from a woreout engine by any means, but it will keep you from blowing out gaskets on one. And the kit is supposedly worth a little free power as well.

BadaPwned

Well, the day I was racing wasn't exactly the best conditions. I didn't have any traction problems but the temps were 80 - 90 F and the humidity was high (probably at or near 100%, it had rained all the day before and all day until I got to the track), not sure how much power you can loose like that.....

The other issue was my launch. I was able to launch about 3600 RPM, hopefully get that to around 4k next time. Perhaps I will try an off idle launch like FastLs1

BadaPwned

Well, let me tell you a little story. (Incoming dumb*** story coming.)

Im sure like most of you, my car isnt my only hobby. I also have a CR250 & a Banshee. Well, I find myself bottling up my old motor and tranny oil. Particularly from my two bikes because I change them so often. Well, nothing makes a better bottle then good old plastic coolant containers. The first day I got my car going this summer, I had the rad cap off, to top it off while it was running. Well, I walked over to my smorgasbord of oils, coolants, bottles etc. I grabbed the first coolant bottle I saw, walked over to the car (you can see where this is going) and as I began to tip the container and commence the pouring I see this ultra thick used gear lube pour right into my rad. Sweet.

So, back to the point, im sure my coolant is years old plus my special additive that I would be glad to sell lol has kept the cooling system from working very well.

I am going to take it to a shop and have them flush the coolant and throw in some of this nifty water wetter.

All in all, the motor is just running hot. Ill let you know if the coolant flush helps.


As far as the rebuild goes, at this point the only thing I care about on the motor is the heads, intake & carb.

Im just going to drive it. Wether it blows or not, I still have to pull the motor.


One more tid bit, for those of who are interested in bikes, please read my guidelines for engine removal. The guys at the other forum seemed to enjoy it.

http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/...s-cr250-44966/

91 camaro 383

for the guy who said the best way to cure excessive blowby is the exaust evac system...dont you use alot of oil then It just kind of sounds like a cover up for the real problem. i also have a fresh engine with tons of blowby. it blows the diptick right out and poors oil everywhere...its real depressing after spending 6k on a motor build yknow...i just cant believe that there is no real cure for this. im gonna do some compression tests this week on it. im getting tons of alcohol in my oil as well (e85). my engine does the same thing. spits oil out of my breathers and smokes out of them as well but recently started blowing the dipstick out. i had the motor built this winter and it sat until last week and started it. it only blows the dipstick out at high revs but it spits oil out of the breathers all the time. any help would be much appreciated. the guy that built the motor is very reknowned in these parts so i dont want to lay the blame on him if its something simple im missing.