Larry Dunlap

As most of you know, I don't drive my car much, at the most once per week on the weekend. The battery went dead twice a while back after not driving the car for a week or more. I thought it was the battery. Replaced the battery and now it's back. I didn't drive the car since the fall brawl and tried it this weekend, completely dead, no electrical activity. Charged it up with a charger and drive it, seems fine, I expect it to be dead again next weekend.

One thing I noticed, when I first put the charger on there is a clicking noise near the battery, first fast, then slower, then it goes away in a few minutes completely.

This just came up out of the blue, I don't think there is a short somewhere. Any ideas?

Zap Racing

U have a power drain somewhere. Not necessarily a short--just something that is draining power when the key is off, that is not supposed to be draining power.

The clicking sounds like a relay of sometype that may be the culprit, that for whatever reason is on when U think everything is off. next time it goes dead hook up the battery charger and try and find what it is that is clicking--don't let battery charge up--if it stops clicking--let battery drain back down and hook it up agin and try to find it. it quits clicking because there is enough power to keep contacts in relay closed and to drain power!

Done any electrical wiring changes lately of any type--start there!

If U can't figure it out--get ahold of Curt at Spring Branch Alt (713-690-664 I think--if not check phone book) and starter--probably one the best in Hou at stuff like that, or Owen.

Larry Dunlap

Yeah I tried to locate the clicking. Once it was actually going on without the charge hooked up. It is coming from near the battery , underneath somewhere. Next time I will get under there and try and trace it down

Wheel Spin

Get an automotive stethoscope to trace it Larry. I've had mine over 30 years now, found many problems before they became critical (water pumps, alternators and PS pumps primarily). Your headlight motors still working correctly? I think our models are a little different, but may be a motor relay up there acting up.

xtremeirocz

check your grounds and make sure the cables back to the battery are good, also try to disconnect the battery after the car is running to make sure the battery isnt running the whole car

Wheel Spin

Headlight switch moved to off position, or ignition turnd to off position, is supposed to cause the F'bird headlight motors to go to the closed position. I love the Firebird, but these DeLorean headlights make me want to go Camaro.

Larry Dunlap

headlights work good, but the sound is near/under the driver side headlight area. I don't think the battery is running the whole car, but I will try that as well. The car starts and runs fine but over time the current just drains away.

Zap Racing

Figure it out yet?

Larry Dunlap

No, I haven't had time, planning on tracing it down this weekend. I checked it as of last night by just opening the door, and still had power. When it goes dead, it goes completely, zero electrical activity. We will see

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I had the same sort of problem... a power drain. Ended up having my buddy disconnect the battery, me pull a fuse, and reconnect (touch the battery cable to)the battery. There was a small spark. Replace fuse and move onto the next fuse. Repeat. After removing a certain fuse, there was considerably less of a spark. Mine turned out to be my hatch motor. FYI.

Good luck.

Larry Dunlap

That is a good idea. thanks Ill try that

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

you can use a test light. unhook one of the battery cables & hook the test light up between the cable & battery post.
make sure you push the door switch for the dome light in so your not seeing a draw from it. bright light means big current draw, the dimmer light the less draw you have. i forget at what point the light does not light up at, i think its around 0.125 ~ 0.175 amps or so.

84transam78239

another way you cna see is get yourself a multimeter or jsut an ammeter if you dont want to spend the money on a multi meter, check how many amps you are pulling with the battery hooked up but the car off, it shouldnt be over .4 amps, anything over that is way to much. and if its carbuerated there probably shouldnt be any, depends on teh car, but if its like .9 and up leave the car off, battry connected and stuff, and start pu;ing fuses while a buddy watches the ammeter, when the culprit fuse is pulled your amps that the system is using will disapear, this way is probably more effective than trying to "guage" a spark, and this method is what a electrician would do if you brought the car to him



PS. hook up the ammeter is series with the batterey, Example: negatiive battery post----->negative ammeter lead----->ammeter----->positive test lead----->negative batt clamp

TexasSilhouette

iTrader: (4)

Watch it making sparks around a battery. When lead acid batteries charge, they produce hydrogen; sparks and hydrogen are bad business. The most likely time for a battery to explode is when connecting and disconnecting. If it's been on a charger, count on there being a lot of hydrogen in the battery. Fortunatly it floats away rather quickly so fanning and or blowing across the battery can dissipate it.

Zap Racing

Good point--in other words Larry do not do this in a closed garage!!!!

Larry Dunlap

OK, cool. Im going to do it tomorrow in the driveway. It started today so it seems like the drain is very slight

J_Byb_04

I have been having the same problem with my 88 Camaro, I disconnected the battery while the car was running and it died. Any idea on where I should go from there?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Easiest thing is to get the alternator tested. Most parts places do it for free. Other than that, I've personally had the wire that 'activated' the alternator go bad.

J_Byb_04

I've had the alternator tested at O'Rielly's, and they say it's good. I'm starting to have my doubts though. All of the grounds are good, the Battery is brand new. I'm stumped on this one.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

if you car has an ECM, don't unhook the battery when the motor is running, that can fry the ECM.

with the motor off check the voltage at the battery with a volt meter, check it again with the motor running, if it reads at least 13.2 or higher, it sounds like you have a current draw somewhere. if its lower when running turn the motor off & unplug the connector on the side of the alternator & turn the key to the on position but don't start the motor, then check for power on both wires in the connector.
also check for power on the terminal on the back of the alternator, you don't need to unhook the wire on the back to check it.
both the red wire on the side connector & the one on the back should have battery voltage to them.
i believe the small brown wire on the side connector should also have battery voltage on it.

J_Byb_04

Okay all three wires on the connector have voltage, i've replaced the alternator and still no charge. What else could cause this i'm stumped here guys.

Zap Racing

What part of town do U live in?

Larry Dunlap

I tried a few things on my car battery deal about two weeks ago. Then last weekend before last it was dead again, then I went on a business trip for a week and got back yesterday. So I guess its really dead now. I need to get out there this weekend and figure it out.

Zap Racing

Both of U guys--if possible--go see Curt @

Spring Branch Alt + Starter

713-690-6644

Gessner and Hempstead--1/2 blk east

Call before U go over!

Larry Dunlap

Thanks, I will probably do that. I just don't have the time these days to do it myself

l_dis_travlr

I fought a charging problem for a while. Alternator tested good, but
battery wasn't getting charged. Problem turned out to be a severely
coroded junction block. On the 90 Formula, this was mounted on the
core support in close proximity to the battery (hence the corrosion),
but not readily visible. Cleaned it up, problem solved.

I thought I've seen this problem in tech forums, but I can't remember
the ultimate solution. Have you tried a search? The hatch-pull
seems a very likely culprit.

Denn-Shah has as usual, the good hard number info.

Good luck, & keep up posted.

kk

J_Byb_04

I might give him a call BUT I won't be able to go, i'm in South Central Kansas.

Zap Racing

Yeah that would be a far drive--LOL

Maybe if U add your location to profile where it shows up on the deal at the left of your posts, I won't make that mistake again.

J_Byb_04

No big deal dude, i'm not on here all that much but I will take the time to fill the rest of the stuff out. I'm still stumped as to the cause of it, it's always fun to track down electrical gremlins.