tubbing????
#2
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
The rear "frame rails" are part of the inner fenders (tubs). You can't tub a third gen in the traditional style of tubbing without doing a complete back half swap.
The closest thing to a mini tub is squaring the front corners to put a taller tire inside the fenders.
The closest thing to a mini tub is squaring the front corners to put a taller tire inside the fenders.
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
It's easy on our cars. Just takes $$
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
That's my buddies car. If you've had experience welding/fabbing-then tubbing a car is really simple. With these uni-body cars you basically have to build a frame to tie the 4 link/ladder bars into. The hardest part by far in tubbing is making the final finsihed product look good. I've seen too many cars that are hacked to peices and look like shiiit, why bother? With the above Camero he's redoing the motor again and wants to be part of the "outlaw" wheel standers thing-when you look inside it looks like the factory made this car. True quailty workmanship.
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Car: 1985 Z-28
Engine: a big one
Transmission: 4 spd auto soon to be a 6 speed
i am thinking of tubbing my car this summer when i do all of my body work.
the way i was thinking of doing it, is to take the steel on the outside of the spring pockets off and putting in new straight steel plate. i would then need to use coil overs to keep the spring location somewhat the same.
as for the suspension, i am thinking of using what gm had on their early 60s trucks. the long arm suspension system, which consists of two very long lower control arms which bolt to the rear axle and then get mounted to the car near the centerline. and then a panhard bar is used to locate the rear side to side.
nascar uses this style of suspension, so it must be worth something.
the way i was thinking of doing it, is to take the steel on the outside of the spring pockets off and putting in new straight steel plate. i would then need to use coil overs to keep the spring location somewhat the same.
as for the suspension, i am thinking of using what gm had on their early 60s trucks. the long arm suspension system, which consists of two very long lower control arms which bolt to the rear axle and then get mounted to the car near the centerline. and then a panhard bar is used to locate the rear side to side.
nascar uses this style of suspension, so it must be worth something.
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
Engine: 383 Stroker/ ls3 e-rod
Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
Re: tubbing????
well i was thinking of something ike this.... the dotted lines are how the wheel tubs where before just add on some thick steel to both side to where its square or a little rounded whatever works for you and you should have te same srength as you did befor just bigger tub. and you can adjust this up higher or wider for the lower your car is or the bigger your tires are same thing for the back
Last edited by ChevyRS-305; 11-28-2007 at 11:39 PM.
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Car: projects.......
Re: tubbing????
well i was thinking of something ike this.... the dotted lines are how the wheel tubs where before just add on some thick steel to both side to where its square or a little rounded whatever works for you and you should have te same srength as you did befor just bigger tub. and you can adjust this up higher or wider for the lower your car is or the bigger your tires are same thing for the back
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i am thinking of tubbing my car this summer when i do all of my body work.
the way i was thinking of doing it, is to take the steel on the outside of the spring pockets off and putting in new straight steel plate. i would then need to use coil overs to keep the spring location somewhat the same.
as for the suspension, i am thinking of using what gm had on their early 60s trucks. the long arm suspension system, which consists of two very long lower control arms which bolt to the rear axle and then get mounted to the car near the centerline. and then a panhard bar is used to locate the rear side to side.
nascar uses this style of suspension, so it must be worth something.
the way i was thinking of doing it, is to take the steel on the outside of the spring pockets off and putting in new straight steel plate. i would then need to use coil overs to keep the spring location somewhat the same.
as for the suspension, i am thinking of using what gm had on their early 60s trucks. the long arm suspension system, which consists of two very long lower control arms which bolt to the rear axle and then get mounted to the car near the centerline. and then a panhard bar is used to locate the rear side to side.
nascar uses this style of suspension, so it must be worth something.
Stephen has posted picks of the wheel well mods you are talking about. It will allow a slightly wider tire, but still not much before you get too close to the control arm.
- yes, a true "tub" job requires back halfing or some other sort of custom suspension/fabrication.
Last edited by Shagwell; 11-29-2007 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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