compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

Lately I've really haven't been liking to drive my car too much because of the crappy way the steering feels. I've been driving my Trailblazer everywhere just because it drives so much nicer even though it gets 3-4mpg worse gas mileage.

Here's a little info about my suspension for those who don't know: UMI SFCs, UMI tubular control arms, 1" V6 drop springs, KYB GR-2 struts and Gas-A-Just shocks, rear tubular control arms, bigger sway bars with polyurethane bushings and end links, TDS wonder bar, and 275/40/17 tires. I think that's everything off the top of my head. The center link and tie rods are original as far as I know but they feel tight, idler arm was replaced last year.

I replaced my steering box with a rebuilt AC/Delco quick ratio unit earlier this year and it made the steering EXTREAMLY touchy, like meaning I couldn't drive down the highway with one hand on the wheel because it would want to go all over the road and then trying to correct would make it go the other way. I tried using the aftermarket alignment specs I got off of here but that made no difference at all. So I sold the quick ratio box and bought a rebuilt AC/Delco standard box and now the steering is very stiff, like as in I try and move the steering wheel and it doesn't want to move and then all of the sudden it moves a lot and moves the car too much. So I realigned with the factory specs and it made a bit of difference but it is still way to tight. I loosened the over center bolt about a turn and it seems to make a slight bit of difference but not much.

Right now my thoughts are maybe the power steering pump needs to be replaced (it's leaking anyway), I noticed it seems to be whining a little bit now. My other thought would be the rag joint eliminator causing some binding and causing part of this problem. I just don't know though since I had both of those with the quick ratio box and it was way too touchy. My stock box was more liveable than both of these rebuilt boxes have been but there was play in it and I already turned it in for the core charge.

I think I covered everything, but it's late so I may have forgotten something. Does anyone have any ideas for me? I know it'll never drive like a newer car, but I need to do something.

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

Anyone?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I know it's a mess, but I'd remove the rag joint eliminator and try without it. I've heard many people cite the problems with binding with this item. It would be the cheapest possible solution if you do the work yourself. Another problem would be in the settings of the steering box. These are just shoved out the door and no attention is paid other than just replacing worn pieces. I can't remember the technical term, but it has something to do with the 'roadfeel'.

Kevin84Z28

iTrader: (3)

Get rid of the power steering set up and go manual. Power steering was created for the women anyways.

KJZ28/TA

iTrader: (1)

definitely the pump is bad or something. These cars are fun to drive. It should not be doing any of the listed problems.



But A LOT of the parts you got are going to make it more diffucult to go straight. Usually when your cornering goes up going straight gets to be more of a chore. Take the sway bars off.

Kevin84Z28

iTrader: (3)

Take the sway bars off? Why would he want to do that? The sway bars have nothing what-so-ever to do with his over-steer/under-steer problem.

KJZ28/TA

iTrader: (1)

That is completely true. But I read the thread to quickly and didnt read part of it. he seemed to really annoyed before the steering box swap that he couldnt go down without adjusting the wheel every second. Taking the end links off would make it easier to drive down the road with one hand.

his probelm could be one of the sway bars is too big. With sway bars sometimes bigger is not always better. you want a balance.

One of your ball joints could be shot also. that really messed up the steering in one of my cars once.

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

The RJE and the power steering pump were my thoughts, it's just I'm tired of spending money and the car not getting any better. I think I may put the pump on first and see what that does since that's cheaper than the new i-shaft.

I don't understand what the sway bars have to do with this problem either. If they did help this problem, then I'd have tons of body roll which would just be another problem.

New ball joints came with the UMI tubular control arms.

Adjusting the steering box was a thought, but I don't have the proper type of torque wrench to do that and I really don't want to take the box out of the car again.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

How about the strut mounts? Mine were sloppy as can be on both my cars. Replaced with Spohn solid bearing pieces.

I would also go ahead and replace your tie rod ends, center link, and idler arm. You can grab them and wiggle them all you want, but you wont be able to duplicate what a 3500+ car does when moving, or the force that hydraulic assisted steering produces.

If you suspect they are original, its just a good idea to freshen them up. Plus, the cost isnt too ridiculous on those parts. Unless you feel that they are low mileage and really are ok.

I have a quick ratio box on mine, and i can drive it down the road with one finger. And I have basically the same mods as you...maybe a couple more. In fact, I feel that my car is probably the best driving car that Ive ever owned.

You'll get it. Chances are its something that is worn out or binding. I dont know much about the rag joint eliminators....so i cant say if that is hurting you to that degree or not.

J.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Removing the power steering isn't a good idea on a DD. There are no systems that would allow the full range of motion. Besides, power-steering isn't a bad thing in cars that are meant to handle...that's why most run it.
Uh.... I'm pretty sure removing the sway bars would make the car less enjoyable. Turning in the car would be a chore because of the increased body roll and lack of control.
I'd still say try the cheapest parts first. Get a new rag joint in it, then the PS pump. Probably would still be a good idea to replace all the steering linkages/strut mounts that you haven't already.
Also, you can adjust the sttering box on the car, but I don't know if you'd want to do that until you've checked everything else.

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I have full intentions to replace the tie rods and center link, but I don't have the money right now. I am going to buy Duralast (yes I know AZ parts are usually not as good as O'Reillys, but the steering parts are still made by Federal Mogul), so I'll be able to save a little money there. My biggest concern right now is just the feel of the steering since I pretty much know what the parts are that are causing the car to follow the road so bad. I know the strut mounts are original too, but I haven't noticed an extreame amount of play in them although I would like to get the solid ones at some point.

Lo-tec

So, you replaced the steering box, and the steering got worse.

You put a different steering box in, and it changed again (worse in a different way).

I would say the problem is with your steering box.

I had the factory box from my Z rebuilt by Lee Power Steering in CA.



Excellent service and the steering is tight (my problem was slop in the box).

May I ask why you replaced the box in the first place?

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I replaced it because I thought I wanted the quick ratio. That was the only reason. It had a small amount of play in the box, but not a whole lot.

Lo-tec

Did it work better than the two boxes you replaced it with?

vette gator

Is the frame cracked near the steering box mounting area?

Kevin84Z28

iTrader: (3)

Then try this method.


http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/boxmesh.shtml

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

My stock box was just a standard box (I have an RS), then I bought the rebuilt quick ratio, and then I bought the rebuilt standard after I sold the quick ratio. I wish I hadn't turned in my stock box for the core charge or I would have just gone back to that since that would have been cheaper.

No.

At the bottom of the page where he said the steering will feel numb and not return to center, if I remember correctly that is how it felt with the quick ratio box. But now it is the complete opposite and really wants to return to center. Maybe the thrust bearing preload is too tight. I just really do not want to take this box out of the car again. I had an idea that the box may not be adjusted properly. Maybe I'll wait until I had the money to replace the center link and tie rods and after I have the center link off the pitman arm I'll pop off the i-shaft and try to adjust it.

campbellerman

he needs to try the freeplay adjustment on top of the steering box. just loosen the nut and turn the allen screw then tighten the nut back down and turn your wheel this will either put freeplay in the wheel or take freeplay out. adjust this until you are happy

8t2 z-chev

were you using a standard"varible ratio"box?
When my original steering box started to leak at the
input shaft,i replaced it with a varible ratio box from
a sport coupe-it worked but i didn't really care for how
it drove,replaced that with a "constant ratio"box from
an '85 trans am-all fixed,driving like a z28 again
By "following the road"do you mean the wheels are
"tramlining"in highway grooves? what wheels are you
using?-they might have the wrong offset.
My z28 drives superb-at least as good as my porsche

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Back from 2008?

JamesC

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Also...since this thread popped up and others might see it... I dont suggest playing with the "freeplay" of the box all ***** nilly without learning what you are doing. You can VERY easily mess the box up, and potentially cause a dangerous steering issue while driving.

Yes you can tighten things up this way, but if you arent sure what you are doing, its a little more involved than "just tightening the top screw up"...