reefland

Picked up some new wheel bearings (inners and outers) to put on while I was adding struts. Something just isn't right though.

The front outers that were on the car had a plastic housing and fit nicely into the seal pressed in the rotor. The new one was too big to fit into the seal but fit nicely into the rotor without a seal. So I went that route.

Got everything back together and took off. Well, the new struts are great and make a big difference but the front wheels are definitely grinding; you can hear and feel it. It's got to be those outer bearings.

Can someone confirm that the bearings should definitely seat into a seal that is pressed into the rotor?

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

You pack the new bearings with grease? Maybe a silly question, but if we get in a hurry/distracted/whatever..... Mistakes do happen.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

you mean the inner wheel bearings that go in the rotor before the seal is tapped onto the rotor. or the outers that are put on, then the washer, nut, cotter pin, after setting proper wheel bearing clearances...?

nomind

Did you put new seals on after you put the wheel bearings in? I could work my bearings in and out with the seal still in place, but the seal didn't last long after doing that. I ended up with grease all over the place on one side.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The only seal is on the backside to protect the inner bearing. By seal, I hope you don't mean "race". The bearing rides on the race (which is pressed in), so without it trouble will arise. There are two different outer bearings, one for a standard rotor and one for the 1LE. Make sure you have the correct bearing. Also, I'm uncertain what the 'plastic' piece is that you refer to.

EDIT:
The A6 inner bearing is common to both the standard rotor and the 1LE.
The A3 outer bearing, which the 1LE uses, has a larger OD than the standard A34 bearing. If you had the larger bearing, you had the 1LE.

JamesC

reefland

The only seal is on the backside to protect the inner bearing. By seal, I hope you don't mean "race". The bearing rides on the race (which is pressed in), so without it trouble will arise.
---End Quote---
James, I'm afraid I do mean the race. It was pressed into the rotor. The only way the new bearing would fit properly was to remove this piece by Beating it out with a screwdriver and hammer. The new bearing came with this same piece (I guess the race) and it was too large to fit so the bearing went in without it. It sounds like this is my problem...


---Quote (Originally by JamesC)---
There are two different outer bearings, one for a standard rotor and one for the 1LE. Make sure you have the correct bearing. Also, I'm uncertain what the 'plastic' piece is that you refer to.
---End Quote---
The plastic I referenced was on the old bearing. I don't think it is relevant now but the outer piece of the bearing was made of plastic (or similar material). The piece that wrapped around the rollers of the bearing; it was even off-white.

---Quote (Originally by JamesC)---
EDIT:
The A6 inner bearing is common to both the standard rotor and the 1LE.
The A3 outer bearing, which the 1LE uses, has a larger OD than the standard A34 bearing. If you had the larger bearing, you had the 1LE.

JamesC
---End Quote---
Isn't the 1LE rare? Seems odd that they would have picked these to give me...It is definitely slightly larger, making it not fit within the hub of the rotor with any "race".
***************

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Odd? Being given the wrong parts happens all too frequently (occurred to me this summer with my Jeep). I'd suggest that you return and pick up the standard bearing/race. I wouldn't drive the car further without the race for fear of somehow galling the spindle.

JamesC

reefland

Yup, going to keep it parked until I can get it fixed. I drove it about 5 miles; do you think I have done permanent damage to the spindle?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

No telling. To be certain, you'll have to do a visual.

JamesC

reefland

Alright, got things taken back apart; acquired the correct bearings and things back together. All is well and the car is riding smoother than ever.

I went to a different parts store and they too pulled up a part number that is the wrong bearing (at least for the rotors I have). I had the old one with me and after researching, we found SET34 that was an exact match. Those worked well.

It leaves me wondering though, what rotors do I have to fit that bearing??

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The A34 and the SET34 are the same. Both should fit the standard, 82-92, 10.5" rotor.

JamesC

reefland

Roger that. Odd when Advanced and Auto Zone both pull up the 1991 Z28 5.7L, the larger bearing is what they recommend. The smaller set is definitely the right one for me.

Another related question while I have your expertise...

How much do springs play in a smooth riding car? I have replaced the shocks and struts and all bearings front and rear and greased everything in the front. Inspection shows what appears to be good bushings on the front end. It is still a bit rough though; perhaps to be expected or could it be the springs?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

With the old springs and with new--along with quality struts/shocks--my car has always had a very firm ride. Generally, I'd say nature of the beast.

JamesC

reefland

Thanks! I have been slowly trying to replace wear components on the front and back and think I have completed the task but wanted to make sure it is riding as expected. I think it's time to move on to the body work then.

Thanks!

fireburdluvr85

just for future reference, they recommend the bigger ones only for the " performance" aspect. meaning the counter person was a knuckle head. i have this same problem and was sent the wrong brake lines 4 times for this reason. always ask for the non performance brake/ suspension/ steering components. sad really.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The whole business is goofy. For example, if you're looking for rear rotors for your 89+ car, you'll likely see "performance" or "1LE" as all J65 cars in that time frame were equipped with 11.7" rear rotors.

JamesC

windsurfer

When using the used race to install the new race place the thin edge of the used race to the edge of the new race. Hammer only 1/4 of the circumference then knock out the used race and work on the next 1/4. This keeps the entire used race from becoming embedded completely and difficult to remove.