TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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First off, I searched and nothing came up answering my question.
Who has done the cam swap and dynoed there car? what kind of performance did and what numbers are you pitting down now? Anything else you do to aid the cam swap?
__________________ Wounder bar, 36/24 sway bars, custom slp exhaust with highflow cat, TBI mods 1 and 2, underdrive pulleys.
You will have to grind the dowel pin on the LT1 cam down a bit but that takes like 2 seconds. An LT1 cam with new springs and what not plus a tuned chip and exhaust can supposedly be worth 25-40hp.
Are you serious? What do you call "keeping up with?"
Serious, kickdown LT1 gets like 10 feet slight better accelleration wich my trans am catches up. Althoug driving the 4th gen does feel faster (specially wenn you push the "power trans" button), must be the stiffer body and stiffer seats.
Although if I calculate what I spent untill now, I could easely buy a used LS1 4th gen. They are a little faster then mine.
Serious, kickdown LT1 gets like 10 feet slight better accelleration wich my trans am catches up. Althoug driving the 4th gen does feel faster (specially wenn you push the "power trans" button), must be the stiffer body and stiffer seats.
Although if I calculate what I spent untill now, I could easely buy a used LS1 4th gen. They are a little faster then mine.
So your TBI will run a low 14 in the 1/4 with bolt ons and an LT1 cam? Not calling bs but I really would like to see some proof, maybe a time slip or video?
And by the way, I have 2 good stock '96 LT1 cams sitting in my garage
So your TBI will run a low 14 in the 1/4 with bolt ons and an LT1 cam? Not calling bs but I really would like to see some proof, maybe a time slip or video?
And by the way, I have 2 good stock '96 LT1 cams sitting in my garage
mind giving an 18 yr old that has hopes of a semi kind of almost quick car a good deal so i dont get passed by hyundia's?
So your TBI will run a low 14 in the 1/4 with bolt ons and an LT1 cam? Not calling bs but I really would like to see some proof, maybe a time slip or video?
And by the way, I have 2 good stock '96 LT1 cams sitting in my garage
Im running the following cam. 208 230, .450 .460 ,116, GM 94-95 LT1
No 1/4 tracks here, to be honest havent had the chance to test from a stop, but im preatty confident ill catch up. Waiting to bring it on a test bench. Good you dont claim bullshit, it does actually still snap quite hard wenn shifting in to 3rd. The set up is actually sucking up fuel for little over 280hp at the moment. The car has 78k miles now and is like new.
Sorry no videos. The spesc are from this chart, may not be perfect. I have mesured the lift and knowing the year of the camaro it came from it matched, but your numbers dont look too different.
newb question for sure i know...but, do you have to rebuild the whole engine to do a cam swap or can you just replace it, i know other things have to be replaced such as valve train parts, timing chain ect ect, but my engine just rolled 101,000 miles today infact and my grandma is the orginal owner, she drove in very easy and put 91,XXX on it, i put the rest.
Lol no you do not have to do a rebuild. All you need is the cam, and I would also get some LT4 valve springs and a new timing set. Don't forget your fluids and gaskets that you will need. All of this could cost you less than $100.
__________________ 96 WS6 M6 - lopey idle mod
94 Formula -sold
91 Trans Am - sold
91 Firebird - sold
Parts needed:
LT1 camshaft….Free-$50
Timing chain set – Part number 12371043 (from Scoggin Dickey)….$50
Valve springs – Part number 249-981-16 (from Jegs)….$60
Intake manifold gasket set – Fel-Pro MS93317….$15
Timing cover gasket set – Fel-Pro TCS45121….$8
Water outlet (thermostat) gasket- Fel-Pro 35062….$2
TBI unit gasket – Fel-Pro 60903….$7
RTV silicone sealant (gasket maker) and thread locker….$10
Fluids – Oil, coolant….$20
Master ShiftyCapone's LT1 digest, you already discovered, will give you all information. I used all the suggested parts (upgrading valve springs is a must).
Only thing not mentioned is removing the air condition radiator and filling it up after reassembly, good time to upgrade to R134a refrigerant.
I would also add EBL flash to the expenses, or burn some 500 chips. Keep in mind EBL has some wery useful features you really need to make power that the stock ECM dosent have.
If you want the most from your cam swap you need to update the tune. I wouldn't go to all the work of swapping a cam and then leaving the tune stock.
Also, if you have not added headers, y-pipe, 3" cat and exhaust, a cam swap won't help much. Get the full exhaust taken care of first.
looks like im gonna have a nice little parts pile for a while, shorty headers or long tubes, i want the most power, what if i hollowed out a cat, since i have an extra laying around ive heard about doing that, also what help would an RPM prefomer intake do for me?
Master ShiftyCapone's LT1 digest, you already discovered, will give you all information. I used all the suggested parts (upgrading valve springs is a must).
Only thing not mentioned is removing the air condition radiator and filling it up after reassembly, good time to upgrade to R134a refrigerant.
I would also add EBL flash to the expenses, or burn some 500 chips. Keep in mind EBL has some wery useful features you really need to make power that the stock ECM dosent have.
R134a IS NOT AN UPGRADE BY ANY MEANS..... Its a DOWNGRADE, BIG TIME!!
First off, I searched and nothing came up answering my question.
Who has done the cam swap and dynoed there car? what kind of performance did and what numbers are you pitting down now? Anything else you do to aid the cam swap?
I put out over 240 RWHP with a .030" over 2001 305 L30 vortec block, flattop pistons, 187 swirl ports, LT1 cam, Edelbrock 3704, Doug Thorley Tri-Ys, and DIY programming on the 1992 TBI Van "299" ecm I was running. Was able to get a 1983 G20 van complete with 29" tall tires, 3.08 gears, and stock 1,600 rpm torque converter well into the 15s in the 1/4 mile.
Since your in texas, you must know, having extreme themperatures. My a/c works perfectly with r134 like the billions of more recent cars, but true we rarely have over 45°C here.
Wenn it comes to recycling and getting wasted in to the atmosfere the r134 is a upgrade.
R12 is legal to produce in wery small quantitys and if you find some, its origin is mostly from black markets in china and smuggled worldwide, so up to you to decide who's living you whant to support.
Since your in texas, you must know, having extreme themperatures. My a/c works perfectly with r134 like the billions of more recent cars, but true we rarely have over 45°C here.
Wenn it comes to recycling and getting wasted in to the atmosfere the r134 is a upgrade.
R12 is legal to produce in wery small quantitys and if you find some, its origin is mostly from black markets in china and smuggled worldwide, so up to you to decide who's living you whant to support.
which is cheaper, ill assume the r134, i need a,c we have been over 100 everyday for a while now...
what do u have to do to switch to r134 cause i need ac too.. its not been to hot here but it would be nice to have since im moving out to southern cali
shorty headers or long tubes, i want the most power, what if i hollowed out a cat, since i have an extra laying around ive heard about doing that, also what help would an RPM prefomer intake do for me?
long tubes are a pain, shortys and a y-pipe will be fine. You need a y-pipe that is nicely merged, the factory T-pipe is unnaceptable. Dont gut a cat, for one the stock one is too small, second its illegal. Buy a high flow 3" cat when you do the headers and cat back. Check out the exhaust board for details.
+1 on exhaust upgrade. easiest mods to do and will give you nice gains on these engines and their lumpy stock exhaust systems. i'd recommend hooker 2055 headers, catco 9118 3" high-flow cat and hooker 16823 3" aerochamber cat back system. great setup for flow, sound.. maybe not for the wallet though in any case, just a necessary requirement for future mods. and although you can gain even more with a chip tune, i would say it's not absolutely necessary to tune the chip for exhaust improvement, whereas a cam change imho does necessitate tuning (and proper fueling).
that isn't cheap, u can get an 8oz can of 134 for like 6 bucks
Compared to dissasembling your Stock R12 system, flushing out the mineral oil, updating the condensor, and installing barrier hoses it is CHEAP. For the difference in a/c cooling capacity, it is nice staying with R12.
If you like even better cooling there is a cheaper, much more efficient, environmentally friendly alternative.
Compared to dissasembling your Stock R12 system, flushing out the mineral oil, updating the condensor, and installing barrier hoses it is CHEAP. For the difference in a/c cooling capacity, it is nice staying with R12.
If you like even better cooling there is a cheaper, much more efficient, environmentally friendly alternative.
lol i was just referring to the price of the cans, do 90's firebirds have r12 or 134?
anyone else? 
in any case, just a necessary requirement for future mods. and although you can gain even more with a chip tune, i would say it's not absolutely necessary to tune the chip for exhaust improvement, whereas a cam change imho does necessitate tuning (and proper fueling). 
