scorpion92

Me and Lucille (92 camaro rs 305tbi) got one helluva shock a while back, and I'm currently tryin to get my car to run right. I have a new Starter, solenoid, and starter enable relay. Now when i hook up my positive battery terminal, my starter decides it wants to automatically engage with my keys in my hand, faaaaaaarrrrrr away from the ignition. So, after a couple calls, the answer i keep getting is "run a new primary to your solenoid". I got the wire, (havent yet put it in) but if my primary wire got burnt, wouldnt it just not let my starter engage at all? I think that the two copper rings in my ignition lock cylinder got welded together after half my battery drained through Lucille and I. Any input would be nice

scorpion92

Update: Im tired of chasing a ghost. I just wanna be able to drive to work while im chasing the real answer, so im going to run a push button. Should i remove my starter relay and primary off my solenoid before i run the pushbutton? I have the resistor to bypass my VATS, Run the hot terminal from the battery to a switch, then to the hot on my starter, i understand all that. Just figure better safe than sorry before i start redneckin my car. So many more electronics than i like dealing with

Dewey316

I would not go that route, sounds like you wired something up wrong and have a circuit energized by the battery that should not be.

Also, Don't run power load through switches, it's bad juju, use switches to trigger relays of the correct amperage.

Schurkey

Since you've replaced the starter, solenoid, and "starter enable relay" you may want to verify the wiring after all.

Another possibility: Copper contacts in the solenoid welded themselves together. Not a wiring problem, it's a solenoid problem.

Happened to me more than once, as I recall it always happened when the battery was fairly low on charge.

Pop the solenoid off the starter, take it apart, clean all the contacts. It's REAL easy to break the plastic (Bakelite) end-cap of the solenoid, you might want to simply replace it after verifying that it's welded. An ohmmeter between the top and bottom terminals (the two BIG ones) should NOT show continuity--if you have continuity, the solenoid is welded.