Mr.ChevyStroker

So, I am wanting to get some power for not that much, i know people say junk the 305 and get a 350, but a 350 will come into the equation when my 305 blows up.
So the idea here was to run either 081's 1.94 intake 305 heads or vortec heads 1.94/175. The difference in price is going to be getting the vortecs milled down to 56 or 58 combustion chambers. I found a set of 081's 331 shipped here, or 300 for the vortec heads from a machine shop about an hour away from here. So the question is what is it gonna cost to get the vortecs milled down to that small of cc chamber?
Then i am gonna do a lt1 cam swap, gm performance vortec manifold, and a chip. possibly CAI. The block is a 1991 305, with 9.3-1 compression ratio, so I should be able to keep the same compression ratio with either heads and the proper headgasket.
Will a premade chip work possibly? Other wise I'll go down to a floor dyno place and pay about the same for a chip to get a custom burned one from tunning after dyno pulls.
Can I get some advice or point out my flaws in what can go wrong or not work?
Please and Thank you's!

P.S. Already have gm performance vortec tbi intake*
[/B][/B]

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Save yourself some $,sweat, and disapointment. Trust me. Lots of people on here including myself have entertained that idea and probably wouldnt do it again. I like my 305 and will wait on it to go sour then haul it for scrap when it does. But i would not try to make much power out of one if i was going to build a 350 later

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Ditch tbi and go bigger cam it would be easy 300+ hp with vortecs and hotcam well tuned with proper port efi

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

NO NEED TO DITCH TBI! You could make 350+ RWHP with a single big block TBI unit.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Show me

gearheadotaku

iTrader: (1)

Just use 305 Vortec heads and save yourself the machine work. The valves are a bit smaller, but at this power level you'll be fine. You didn't mention your exhaust plans, but the Vortec heads have a different exhaust manifold bolt pattern vs the stock f-body heads so plan accordingly. I wouldn't count on a pre-made chip. You'll need to datalog etc, etc.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Assuming your referring to 300-RWHP, you will need to max out two 104-lb injectors running at a max duty cycle of about 90%. If you can pull that much air in with what you have to work with, then it should be a piece of cake...

sootie007

I am one of those people Cain talked about who modded their 91 305 roller too....I started with the 170 hp TBI 305...I think at absolute best I now have based on feel is 220-230 hp ~280 ft lbs is my guess with these bolt ons . I didn't do heads - I reused the TBI's - I just did cam ,intake ,carb swap, headers, fuel system and also threw in a gear and posi at the end. Looking back I wish I would have simply thrown this money into a Vortec headed 350 or 383. Sure I would have had a little more in it , a little more work but I also would have a much quicker car , a little higher resale value on the street than a bolt on 305 Camaro does. I would have easily had 350 hp plus sitting under the hood as well. Sooo my advice would be whatever parts you buy for the 305 make sure they will work for the 350 in your future. Also make sure you don't paint yourself into a corner with the Vortecs by milling them down too much - if you go turbo or possibly forced induction later on the 350 the milled compression ratio that's great on the 305 might hurt you on a power added 350 (detonation). Bigger cam I agree - which will probably mean a spring upgrade in the Vortecs in case you haven't budgeted for that....Vortecs will also be easier to sell down the road in case you abandon your plans.



QUOTE=Mr.ChevyStroker;5800989]So, I am wanting to get some power for not that much, i know people say junk the 305 and get a 350, but a 350 will come into the equation when my 305 blows up.
So the idea here was to run either 081's 1.94 intake 305 heads or vortec heads 1.94/175. The difference in price is going to be getting the vortecs milled down to 56 or 58 combustion chambers. I found a set of 081's 331 shipped here, or 300 for the vortec heads from a machine shop about an hour away from here. So the question is what is it gonna cost to get the vortecs milled down to that small of cc chamber?
Then i am gonna do a lt1 cam swap, gm performance vortec manifold, and a chip. possibly CAI. The block is a 1991 305, with 9.3-1 compression ratio, so I should be able to keep the same compression ratio with either heads and the proper headgasket.
Will a premade chip work possibly? Other wise I'll go down to a floor dyno place and pay about the same for a chip to get a custom burned one from tunning after dyno pulls.
Can I get some advice or point out my flaws in what can go wrong or not work?
Please and Thank you's!

P.S. Already have gm performance vortec tbi intake*
[/B][/B][/QUOTE]

Mr.ChevyStroker

SO if i have around 9.3-1 compression whats the most i should mill the heads down to?, and the stock vortec heads take 512 lift I believe..

Also how different are the bolt patterns for the exhaust to run... Because my buddy just swapped a pair on his 350 and is waiting for a few things for it, but he put a few bolts on the header area and it looked like it was fitting...?

How do I max out the stock injectors exactly? How much more are 454's injectors?

The main reason I am going to try and keep tbi is because well if i had more money i would obviously go holly terminator!!

But fuel econmy is nice getting 27 mpg's is awesome!

Lastly, the dyno thing would be better then probably? Because wouldnt they be able to tune it with the wideban in there and get a pretty dead on custome chip correct?

Mr.ChevyStroker

Also, if there is a way i can not run tbi and still get that good of gas mileage ill definitely be interested.. Haha, and the main reason i am wanting to wait on a 350 is because i dont really have any room to store a block just anywhere...

Ron U.S.M.C.

Just take the car and install 3.42 or higher rear gear ratio and a L.S.D. and have some fun with it until the engine go's.

The only thing is that with a 305, that could be forever........

That's what I'm doing and my little 5.0 is a blast to daily drive.

Mr.ChevyStroker

well Ill probably do the cam, and the heads and the intake... But I should still need a tune, which is where i am still kinda dumb, and lost at...

Mr.ChevyStroker

Or I could save my money and do a DZ swap, then I'd be a 1 of a kind 3rd gen. Haha

Mr.ChevyStroker

By the way I was kidding about that 302 swap.... But i still need the cruicail info for the swap, how much to mill the heads down, and would it be better to get a dyno tune, since im kinda to cheap tp by the prom and all the others stuff that costs alot...

sootie007

I don't think Vortecs can handle .512 lift without a different spring setup. Stock Vortecs I have read can be anywhere from .480 max lift to as low as .450 depending on who you talk to or articles you read . Rons advice may be the best - just put a fun gear / LSD in it until the 305 dies. Save your money for a larger cid combo that can really produce. This is coming from a guy who just did all this to his 305.

The trend seems to be going to power adders these days - either turbo or supercharger. Most of those simpler street combos they want 8.5 -9.0 : 1 max from the head piston combo without running meth injection to cool things down etc .

The bottom line however is its your car - so you do whatever the hexx you want with it and enjoy it and the experience of wrenching on it and putting the combo together.

Dakota W.

Upgrade the rest of the car to handle a 350 before you put a 350 in, since you still have a working 305.

Mr.ChevyStroker

I have a guy linde up here for a lt-1 t56 swap i just need the x member and the torque arm. Or would a stock 3rd gen arm fit? That could save me 350 bucks....

sootie007

You wil be happier in the end with this 350 combo ! Good choice.

Mr.ChevyStroker

So it's ironic I am saying this.. But I need a best answer to this cluster of info that happened today. Driving to work, califonia rolling stop signs, and the last stop sign is a hard one to roll to because it's hidden by trees. Anywho, luggin in 2nd, i pretty much come to a complete stop without pushing the clutch in just yet, and then i give it some gas, and some sounds of metal occured. then, as i was driving to work it definitely felt a power loss, but i had to get to work so I didnt really have much time to look around. After work i check the plug wires and such, make sure nothing arc'd, but nothing so I drive over to my friends house to show him, and on the way there, the motor backfired in a different way like normal backfire. ( 305 tbi lo3) and then I took him on a cruise showing him and he even notice the power loss. The car then immediately after a few minutes of driving it did the back fire thing again but it wasn't a normal type of one. He said is sounds like pre detonation.. I think it may be a dead cylnder because the car shakes all the time now. And I also believe I broke the trans mount bushing-thing from lugging it. Any ideas? \

1991 305 lo3. only mod is shorty headers with catback, and 5/8 spark plugs have been changed, and a new o2 sensor. I'm lost folks. All info will begood info, so throw what ya got at me!

Mr.ChevyStroker

I found out the issue. I was a wiggling spark plug. Anywho. So, since im going to buy that rear end and the t56 set up, and my plans are to do a ls based motor swap. Most likely 5.3. Should i get a cheap 350 runner ans swap my tbi parts on it and such to get a little more oophm untill i eventually get the funds to do my build? I love 27 miles per gallon right now, but as soon as i get the 3.73's and the 350, its gonna be like 20's ish.. no more than 25 probably, and this will be a DD. And if i were to get a 350, i wouldnt have to retune the ecu should i?

gearheadotaku

iTrader: (1)

If you're you're going to go LS power in the future, don't spend your time/money on the 350 in the meantime. Just keep with the 305 (stock) until you're ready for the LS. You'll save time and money.

Dakota W.

Try more like 15mpg highway.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Try again!! I get 18-19 on the open highway in a 6,200 lbs Express van with a 350, 4L80E, and 3.73s.

I would not waste my time LS swapping one of these cars. If you want a LS buy a 4th or 5th gen. If you have one of these cars build you a nice 355 or 383 out of a factory roller cam block and use a nice pair of heads on it. 450-500 HP all day long with the right setup and alot more torque than a LS.

Dakota W.

T5 gear ratios are shorter than the 4L80E ratios. And weight doesn't have much to do with cruising.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

You would be suprised how much load that the combination of weight, frontal area and drag coefficient have on MPG.

4L80E has a .75 od ratio where a T-5 is .63 IIRC. The 4L80E also takes more power to spin than the T-5. The 9.5" 14 bolt also takes more power to spin than a GM 7.5" 10-bolt or aussie 9 bolt.

Dakota W.

T5 has .74 for 5th. With my T5 and 3.08's I'm at 3k rpm at 60mph. Granted, my 350 has bigger heads than it really needs, and a fairly large cam, I still can't manage to get more than 16-17hwy. I know that I need a different carb, but it runs fairly well despite that. I'm not sure how a rearend and transmission take more power to spin than another, and unless you're doing over 75mph drag doesn't play THAT much of a difference. Physics tells us that an object in motion stays in motion until other forces act upon it, which is why weight isn't an issue when you're already at speed.

RS-Chevy-SS

There are forces acting against it while in motion. One could argue that the wind resistance is greater on a vehicle with more weight at a given speed, than a vehicle with less weight.

Or you could argue that it takes more force to get something moving that is heavy over something light. Therefore it takes more force to keep that weight moving.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Its actually 80-90 mph that it often cruises. Speed limit is 75-85 mph here.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

If your worried about torque go larger like a 6.0 block if you really want fun stroke it. Lol

do your research before deciding ,

350 -383 has there strong points and weak ones intake is biggest weak point and heads
just like lsx swap has there strong points and weak points major weak point is cost mainly and properly built lsx engine will make torque and you wont be disappointed at all check lsx thread and see who is complaining about torque lol

Mr.ChevyStroker

You are at 3k? At 65 I'm at like 1750 with 3.08s. Im pretty sure they have the .62 overdrive. At least I do...

The next thirdgen I'll eventually get will have a badass tpi stroker motor of some kind.

Would i be able to bore a 5.3 to or bigger than a 6.0? Or would I save a few bucks and just get the 6.0?

This build will probably start by the middle of this next school year for me.. (trade school) and end by the middle of summer. I'm gnna be able to not have to be worrying about paying rent because my uncle is going to let me stay there. So ill only be paying insurance phone and gas. Haha. So the plan is to get most of the parts by the middle of the year and get it all done. still also deciding if I should upgrade it immediately(the motor components) or get it running first then upgrade later.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Can bore 5.3 to 5.7 but no bigger , 5.7 can go to 383 , 6.0 can go up to 408 or 402 depending on block aluminum vs iron iirc there are 39x stroker kits also but dont see them often

bigger you go the less rpm needed to make powee

go lsx you wont regret it !!!

Big thing with lsx engines is that stock parts perform very well and ported stock heads can run with aftermarket heads

if your looking for budget lsx swap get a junkyard 5.3, f body accessories and intake throw on some stock 243/799 find a used zo6 cam get a tq converter throw it all in get a tune and will get you tad above 300 rwhp

just google 5.3 zo6 cam results speak for its self

for future you can just swap to bigger block like a lq9 and swap to bigger cam and lq9 block with 243/799 heads basically makes a ls2

or you can just upgrade cam on 5.3 and cnc port heads etc

or boost 5.3 as is and throw down atleast 600 rwhp


But seems to me your on a budget and 5.3 zo6 cam is win , and uses all stock factory parts so you can find cheap good deals

No iron block had 243/799 heads iirc aluminum 5.3 do have them as they where high output motors and 07 and up gen IV had 243/799 heads also

Also you can just mill stock heads on 5.3 to boost compression

Many ways to go about it

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

LS engines do not make the low-end power of a taditional small block. On the street they are under performing dyno queens unless they have a ton of cubes or boost IMO. They really like low gears and 3,600+ rpm converters.

IROC315

iTrader: (9)

Lol at that comment. Mine has never seen a dyno and it certainly has no trouble performing on the street .

I do have a 3600 and 3:73s .

Dakota W.

You're forgetting to mention the wiring harness, converting to an automatic transmission, different length Driveshaft, different length throttle cable, different a/c, and different gauges. There is no such thing as a budget LS swap.

Mr.ChevyStroker

Well I'm going to have a t56 from a 95 bird, so, i wont need the automatic harness. I'm assuming I would need the manual harness, and then the ls1 conversion kit. housing, input shaft shim's, etc. its 300 bucks I believe. Then fbody accessories, and Its gonna be a DD, so I WANT A/C. I was gonna look into getting possibly ls6 intake as said before/done, or going with a fast 90 intake, and a ls7 cam, with ls7 lifters and springs pushrods etc... unless some of that can be handled. I'm going to have a 3.73 geared axle, hotckiss t arms, sphon trans member and looking for a torque arm. I wanna make like, 400-450 rwhp and tq. Im going to be running LT's, porting the heads, or getting ls1/ls2 heads? I also wanna be able to add like a 100 shot... Just for fun. Which will require a trans rebuild eventually... Either 3 to 3.5 in y pipe, or 3 inch dual straight pipes... This is what I love about straight pipes...


Anywho. And at that point a 9 inch or a 12 bolt will be purchased Now the nitrous and the 12 bolt will be like a year or less after i complete the swap as since I will be broke.. But Im also am going to get better wheels. And man the list goes on.

But main point, with the ls7 stuff be compatible with the rebuilt, bored 5.3-5.7, flat tops, ported heads, or ls2? ls7 springs pushrods, lifters and cam... I know for budget build 400 rwhp is pushing it, but i could do 300-350 and a 100 shot and still get there correct? Any special pistons or anything like that to run nitrous? i know stock 5.3 or LS's in general have a very strong bottom end.

Mr.ChevyStroker

Also, keeping it a DD, should I stay with the stock fuel injection type system? Or go with like holley terminator... Self tuning..

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't trust any of the self tuning junk. I don't even like auto ve correction without looking over the resulting values and smoothing them substantially. In my experience factory efi gives much less problems and is easier to find replacement parts for on the road. My last TPI setup had a LS1 0411 ECM running it.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast355

LS engines do not make the low-end power of a taditional small block. On the street they are under performing dyno queens unless they have a ton of cubes or boost IMO. They really like low gears and 3,600+ rpm converters.

hmmm this a tough one i see your a diehard sbc guy as i am also i love both lsx and sbc
SBC= can make or usally make more lowend buts very dependent on intake and cam and cubes mainly on how the power curve is , run shorter intake runners like miniram or stealth ram you find your self gaining more upper rpm power , and like i said both platforms have there strength and weakness

but i think your underestimating a well built lsx engine and are not under performing dyno queens on the street you dont need tons of cubes or boost , if you have a well built lsx its anything but a dyno queen

reason for higher stall is because of the powerbands and can get away with a higher stall there is nothing wrong with running a higher stall but its all depended on setup and cam etc and you should know that

sbc guys can run higher stalls also but dependent on setup but most bolt on sbc street guys cant get away with higher stall or gear due to there powerband

but lsx engines have alot more potential and is far more efficent than a sbc

steet lsx auto guys usally run 3.42s or tad higher and t56 guys run 4.11ish gears

but IMO your kinda overexagerating abit lol both SBC and or LSX when built right have there advantages and disadvantages

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dakota W.

You're forgetting to mention the wiring harness, converting to an automatic transmission, different length Driveshaft, different length throttle cable, different a/c, and different gauges. There is no such thing as a budget LS swap.

harness you can get with engine most engines should include harness
converting to auto Easy, same driveshaft , can use stock 4th gen trottle cable from specific year Easy , A/c is easy can piece it together or go to a/c shop to build you some lines Easy, Can use stock gauges
i recommend doing alot more research than putting false information out there

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.ChevyStroker

Also, keeping it a DD, should I stay with the stock fuel injection type system? Or go with like holley terminator... Self tuning..

stay stock its more than enough to meet your needs ,you can get self tune from like ez efi but thats if you have extra $$$ to spend stock system works fine

since your t56 ive seen 5.3 t56 with zo6 cam and a tune and get 30 mpg dont see many 5.7 or 5.3 claiming that lol
stick with ls6 intake for now cheaper and meets your needs

5.3s can handle more nitrous i think 150 is usally used on a mild setup and good tune so you can reach your goals fairly easy

that should be fun setup and meet your goals

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I am too, wanna debate with me?

Any engine is as strong as the amount of money you put into it. No such thing as weakness, only weak parts, weak builder, or weak owner.

More potential? Where, exactly? Perhaps your saying this because you chose to run one yourself? Ever consider the possibility that your personal SBC ability is flawed?

Sure you did...

RedLeader289

iTrader: (2)

Throwing all this money at a car that you want as your DD is asking for bankruptcy. Most of the DD's i see are fairly stock. One decent wreck in this dream you're building and all your money and time is gone (I know, the same can be said of weekend cruisers). Leaving you with a mangled up car, no money (because of said car) and no way to get around.

Nitrous on a DD is also ill-advised. When would you use it? On the interstate? waste of money for a car that would never see the track.

All things aside, whatever you do, please do not go with straight pipes. A well done exhaust system not only will make your car sound better but it will also perform better. On top of that, a DD with straight pipes is going to make you deaf in less than a year.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Stock for stock lsx engines have ability to make more power that stock no where i mention in my post i stated using any aftermarket parts ... all parts are from factory and can be found cheap used

Fully modified sbc Vs fully modified lsx then the ball game is different just like you mention said but that wouldnt be a budget DD now would it

So whats theres to debate ? Apples vs oranges

To OP this is touchy subject as you can see

lsx is more efficent engine compared to sbc ...

Did i say my personsl SBC was flawed ?

Did i say i hated it ?

Im pretty sure i didnt ,

i had a stock 5.7 tpi engine rebuilt with mild cam , ported intake ,and full exhuast and tuned , with a t56 swap i did its was auto before it blew a fwd sprag and went to 6 speed , it was fun street car to me especially with 6 speed and defiantly not flawed but i guess it is... since you said so .you know me best ..

I also had a 5.0 tbi , that i did ultimate tbi mods on ,space intectors had mild cam i got used and just a cat back that i had and i had a tune aka chip lol which was also fun for me , you dont need much to make a fun car was going to swap heads and do more till when head gasket started to give , i got scammed and mechanic parted my car along with all other cars so that was a end of story there

Oh thats before i decided to do the swap which was my personal choice not because of anything ,i did my research ,drove cars etc

Im sure ive seen and drove 5.3 t56 zo6 cam with good tune , the t56 with its double overdrive is lovely 28 -30 mpg is also lovely of course if you have a heavy car shape like a brick than things will be different but our thirdgen are not as such

anything over 25 mpg is amazing in V8 a decent in a dd

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...72-post79.html

there is also a thread on here that ran similar engine setup


Op as you know there are some touchy subjects when posting on some topics this is one of them as you can see and its more of a measuring contest than posting good helpful info im not hear to debate anything here but post truthful facts ,its black white ..smh

Mr.ChevyStroker

I would quote everyone but I am kind of too lazy to do this, as for just replying like so...

So, first the nitrous would be If and When I would take it to the track.

Self tuning efi would be if I went with a "carb" style fuel system.

I shoulda said weekend warrior. When this swap/project begings ill have already purchased another vehicle to get me to A to B.

So I did some reasearch and ls7 cam is a no go. not worth the time to fiddle with all the bologna. Bu the Zo6 cam has been the way people have been going. Just for safety I'd upgrade the springs.

The only downfall to the build is really the wiring. I'm not electrician, but the make a wire-converter-swap-kit ma-bob Correct?

Agreeable on the straight pipes. I just love the way that bad boy sounds. I'd probably just keep my set up I have now (catback) and toss in a cut out for fun.

So quick run through.

1) Since It's a DD, A/C is a must. So F-body accessories
2)Ls1 Manual harness or will stock lm7 harness get the job done?
3)Ls1 front bellhousing swap kit( 95 trans am t56)
4) I'm assuming stock fuel rails,coil packs, injectors. (Lm7? Ls1?)
5)Notch the k-member or buy the hawks fabbed one?
6)lsx motor mounts
7)ls6 intake
8)Zo6 cam, with springs, rockers.... Whatelse? I think stock lm7 could handle it
9) port the stock heads
10) Lsx hawks longtubes. Hopefully 1.75 primaries, along with wideban o2 for the tune.
11)stay with 3.73w for mpg, since DD, or 4.10s for still decent fuel mileage but awesome necksnapping...
12)Already have sfc's
13) rear end has Hotckiss trailing arms
14)Torque arm and panhard bars. for now stock 3rd gen one should handle well.
15)Big brake kit. (probably just stock ls1 rotors and such till I get my new wheels whenever that may be)
I'll probably keep the dash, just get custom dash gagues. something higher than 115...
16) I need custom ac hoses correct?
17) ill also will need different front springs since the lm7 is less than the 305...
What else Am I missing, I think thats just about everything right? I can use a fbody water pump correct?
I'm just confirming and think of what else I need/forgetting. I have been researching for sometime now on the swap parts and such but the information is so much it's hard to remember it all

Dakota W.

I never said doing any of it was difficult, I said it wasn't cheap. Last time I checked, TBI cars used mechanical speedos, so yes, you would need to convert to an electric with a t56. I recommend actually reading what is typed before you start coming off as an arsehole.

Mr.ChevyStroker

Yeah, I would also need a electric speedo, ls1 cltcuh, and clutch hydraulics, starter, water pump, a ecm... throttle body..... also a new fuel pressure regulator because the ls1 based motors run at 58 psi? and new fuel system as well.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

They sell a mechanical tailhousing for t56 for cable drive speedos

RBob

iTrader: (1)

All '90 - '92 3rd Gens have an electric speedometer. Use a Dakota Digital SGI-5 box to interface between the T56 pickup and speedometer. Along with the ECM if it is the stock one.

RBob.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

OP has 91 RS thats why i didnt entertain the speedo issue thing to much
just trying to state facts and correct info and yes i did read !

i had a 90 Rs tbi they have electronic speedo
DGI 5 helps speedo reado out correctly due to the variation diffirence in the signal sent out from trans to what speedo can read

for fuel you can run walbro pump and use corvette fuel filter it has a built in fuel pressur regulator and then re do the fuel line end to adapt to ls1 its not that hard

if your serious about going lsx swap theres a dedicated sub forum under engine swaps has more than enough info for you a
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/
theres a thread on lsx swap using a t5 lol

also Pocket sells a direct plug and play harness if wiring scares you , its not that bad theres a step by step guide in lsx thread

but your right on track

Mr.ChevyStroker

So I calculated out my expenses... Being a young school boy, and starting trade school soon. Money will be tight. Not throwin a curve ball out here, but a 350 swap will be much cheaper, and less to worry about conversions.

I'm mostly staying tbi because of fuel economy and... Well thats it. If i had money to blow I'd do the lsx and go 60 demon. But sbc and carbs dont mix with fuel mileage.
This tags along in what I typed further down about the ecm.


I'm gonna try and get a roller 350 from a camaro or vette. And swap it in with new vortecs and my vortec tbi manifold, so that should be plenty of power for buck swap there.

Then I'm gonna save and do a 383 mini ram/tpi stroker (hints the name) during the summer time after working and acquiring knowledge and parts and i am gonna aim for 450 rwhp and 500 torque. I know stock tpi is a crazy tq set up since it has long runners.

But doing this will allow much less money to be spent, and not have to swap anything. Accept maybe a 12 bolt, or a 9 inch...

And the tpi is only a idea. I may just run a edelbrock and call it golden.

And since im going to try and get a roller motor, ill try and get a decent cam, (for now) but the only prob with that is that the ecm will start freaking the **** out and go haywire possibly. What will a stock 350 tbi ecm hold possibly? And ill upgrade to 350 injectors and computer.

Sorry for all the fuss and fights. I'm ending it now.

But i do indeed need the dakota digital speed box ma bob.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

What ever you choose its going to be fun

383 going to be restricted thru a stock tpi setup
Superram is another intake option
And first intake also but thats more $$$
If money a issue just save your money run the 305 till it goes than go 383 or lsx or 350 which ever best suit your budget

Look into porting tbi aka ultimate tbi mod and spacing injectors , look into getting a performance chip i had got mines awhile back from tbi performance iirc work out really well

No need to rush anything take your time time to decide and research and save to do it right

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

You would be surprised what an honest 350-400 HP 350 TBI engine would run like in a 3rd gen. I would start with a Vortec truck 350. I just picked up one from a local shop in running condition from throttle body to pan, fan to flexplate with full accessories for $400 that was rebuilt 30K before a 6.0 swap. The deals are out there, just have to look for them. I picked up a 4-bolt main L31 6 months ago with a 4L80E behind it for $800 with less than 100K from a 97 1-ton 15 passenger van.