racereddy20

I'm looking at buying a cam right now any good ideas? I thought about compucam 2020 p/n 104211. Lobe seperation is 111. Duration is Int.194 Exh. 204. Lift w/ 1.5:1 rockers is Int 0.407 and Exh 0.429. Seems kinda mild. I want a power band between 1500 rpm to 5500 rpm. I'm willing to sacrifice some low range torque for some more midrange torqe. I am planning on scraping the heads in favor of some 350 heads. I ive next to the mexican border and can get some lt1 heads for a good price. I'm also researching some zz4 heads. i dont have a whole lot of money for aftermarket stuff. I hate to admit it but I know a whole lot more about fords than I do about Chevy's. i've only owned my 3rd gen for 6 months. I need some direction guys. Ford or Chevy I only stick to the american muscle camp. I dont drive or touch rice. Thanks in advance. P.S. A guy offered me some IROC rims w/ 2 new tires and 2 tires w 60% life on them. The tires are goodyears and the rims are 15". Either way right now I have a 89 rs (red) with (blue) rs rims. He wants $300. I think if he'll take $250 (cash) it will be a good deal. Any suggestions?

Nitroburn

Fire of all, welcome to the board! There's plenty of talent here to help you will all your questions and such. But for any of us to help you, we need more infomation from you.

Motor size, induction type (Carb, TBI, TPI, etc..) new or used motor, any mods that have already been done to the and/or engine (headers, exhaust, rear gears, etc..). Do you plan on making this a daily driver, weekend runner or strip.

Give us some more details and we'll be happy to help you out!

Later,
Mike

91Firecrow305TBI

Most people use LT1 camshafts that go well for our cars.
They can be found on Ebay usually for about 20-50 bucks shipped.
Lift Duration
Exh Int Exh Int LSA
.447 .459 201 208 115.0
Thats with 1.5:1 rocker arms

I have the cam myself, and am very pleased with the difference.

As for the rims, hold out for some 16x8's

I bought these with new 255/50R16's for 500 bucks

91Firecrow305TBI

91Firecrow305TBI

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racereddy20

:hail: Thanks guys I currently own an 89 RS. I havent really done much to the car. So far Ive changed out the shocks ans end link bushings with the poly types. I've changed the fuel filter, spark plug wires, distributor cap, spark plugs, and so on. I did install a msd 6al box in about 20 minutes. I bought the car with 16,000 mi on a rebuilt engine (so the guy says). Either way the car feels and drives strong. I was disapointed by the cars lack of power at first, but now I see it as a good challenge. It has a stock 305 TBI with stock heads, cam, exhaust manifolds, and a catback exhaust. from the cat back the tubing has been replaced with 3" tubing and a flowmaster muffler. Like I said earlier I plan on getting some heads in mexico (I live like 15-20 minutes from the border). I know that I can find some good stuff over there. I just need to take some time off from my jobs to go take a look and see what I can find. I want to do the Head, cam, intake, and header bolt-ons. oh yeah I also installed an open air filter element. Thanks THIRDGEN.ORG I plan on doing the adjustable fuel pressure regulator in a week or so when I have more free time.

racereddy20

I just bought a msd coil for my camaro. i spoke with a guy at the local speed shop today and He told me i could get some headers for $125 w/ holes for the air pump. I think I'll do that this weekend. I really want to baseline my car before I start modding the car. I really need to go to mexico to see what I can find and how much its gonna be.

91Firecrow305TBI

Headers are a great idea. They make the car sound deeper, and will also give you some more hp/tq The coil will also make a difference in the way the car drives. better throttle response, and a little more tq/hp. If the headers come with black paint, take the paint off with a paint thinner, and buy some Very High Temperature paint, and put 2 or 3 coats on the headers, then touch them up after you install them. I would then run the car/let it idle for about an hour to let the paint cure, and then you do not have to worry about rusty headers.


Clint

TP355Z

For your cam, I haven't used an LT1 cam so i cannot speak for it, but the compu cam that is slightly more radical than the one you spoke about (its like 212/218 dur) and (.440/.454 lift) worked great in my 350, its just slightly lumpy and would put you in the powerband you want.

TP

WhiteGhost

what about a ZZ-4 cam. is it usable at all in our cars.. Is it too big to use? Is it a roller cam? I just wonder how computer friendly it is.

racereddy20

Hey thanks for the advice firecrow. i spoke with one of the guys at the speed shop and he told me to run the car to a point before the paint boils. He said shut it down let it cool off, and then repeat the steps until the paint is cured (about an hour.) Heres my deal I want to pull out all the AIR stuff and Vacuum lines. I dont need to worry about emissions. I'm not planning on selling the car but if I ever do I'll save the stuff in a box and bolt that crap back on. The only concern I have with doing that is the check engine light is gonna come on with the AIR and EGR crap gone. Can I trick the ecm into thinking its still there? Maybe thats a question I need to post in the electronics section.

One QUESTION, where the coolant fan switch located. I can follow the wires, but I dont have the time or the patience. I know where the coolant temperature sensor, coolant fan relay, and coolant temperature sending unit are located. Where is that damn switch!? the wiring schematic has it with a dark green/ white wire. thanks in advance. Oh yeah this is for a 1989 Rs with TBI.

RICH92RS350

I'm using the Compucam 2030 with a 350 TBI.Works great!(hydraulic roller) Very torquey .
-Rich-

racereddy20

N/M found it will replace it tomorrow.

Joel Geerling

racereddy, re. your coolant fan switch, see my recent reply to brody on this board.

re. the AIR/EGR removal, you can find out a lot about this by searching the boards. Basically, the ECM doesn't give a **** about the missing AIR setup, but no EGR will cause it to light the SES (code 32) when you are cruising the highway in closed loop (warmed up, good O2 reading, etc.). This is annoying (and makes you look like a ****-up hack in front of passengers, when, really, you do know what you're doing) and can only be avoided by burning yourself a custom chip (see the DIY PROM board). Good luck!

racereddy20

Thanks joel I found the switch last night (lower passenger side of the block mounted on the block next to the starter. I was under the car looking at what the header swap will consist of, and lo and behold, I find a brass object sticking out of the block with a dark green/ white (stripe) wire coming out of it. I went to autozone and told them I needed a switch and they brought the same part (i was all smiles). Ive been looking for this part for about a week now. i was just to impatient to look for it. :lala: