felo72

I just finished rebuilding a 383 stroker TPI. The previous owner installed new lifters without changing the cam and set the lash too tight, inturn wiping 7 lobes off the cam and sending metal shavings all through the engine. But now I finally have it rebuilt and plan on starting it tonight and wanted to ask the experts (you guys) a couple of questions.

1. When I start it, should I automatically keep it at 2,000 rpm, or do I have a couple of minutes to set the initial base timing?

2. It doesn't have a custom burnt EPROM, it ran good before the cam took a sh_t, will I be ok without one? And would I only need one to get optimum performance?

3. This is a dumb question, but my friend and I were talking about it last night and he talked me into it, but we installed the gooseneck and t-stat without filling the engine with fluid. He said when we fill the radiator, the waterpump will pump the water through the engine. All we have to do is keep filling the radiator. Does this sound right?

Thanks for all the help guys, and any suggestions would help and be appreciated.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

1. you got a little time, but get rpms up as soon as you can, actually, if you drop the distributor in on TDC #1 cyl, on compression stroke, it shouldn't take much to get it too run.

2. you may not NEED it but, it may help provide optimum power, and fuel mileage

3. alot of people, just fill the radiator first, thats what i and most people i know do, only had a problem once, but that was due to a glob of silicone from the intake gasket, so it woulda happened anyway, as we speak my engine is sitting back in the car after having been removed for a pan gasket, waiting for a clutch, it has no water in it, the cooling system is closed, when we are ready to start it, i will fill all fluids at the same time so nothing is forgotten

felo72

Thanks for the reply, that makes me feel better about the startup proceedure. This fuel injection is a whole new world compared to carburetion.

BTW, I spent the extra money for the one piece oil pan gasket, if your like me and hate using the 4 piece oil pan gasket, it's definately worth the money.

Mark A Shields

Soon as the engine fires, bring it to 2k rpms. There is no oil in there, so it needs to splashed around in there and to bring the oil psi up.

And just fill the radiator, there is still some coolant in the engine.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

as far as the pan gasket goes, i prolly shoulda dropped the extra cash for the one piece, they're nice.

but i have never had one of my pan gaskets leak, i guess i'm just lucky,or stubborn.

the reason the pan leaked was cuz we had to replace the timing cover last year while engine was in car, and we apparently messed up the gasket,it was torn in 2 places, at the front of the rails


as far as filling the block with water, i forgot to mention why people think you should fill the engine then put the thermostat in, it because of vapor lock, it can cause high temps, and hurt gaskets, like i said though, only had that one problem. remember to leave the rad cap off untill it will not take anymore water. of a little boils over so what, its water it'll dry

as far as fuel injection goes. it is a good thing, for economy, and when initially firing up a injected motor, i have yet to see one bark fire through the intake like a carb will. so it is safer in that respect

ede

i'd set the timing after a few minutes. it won't take long to do that ,especially if you already have a light hooked up and the distributor hold down bolt loose. i usually drill 1/8" hole in the t-stat ,sometimes i forget. it really doesn't matter the water will get around and the air will bleed out, just keep filling it.

felo72

Thanks for all the replies guys, I'll repost tomorrow and let you know the end result. Oh, I almost forgot, I'm in the works of getting a chip from Motorvations and I plan on testing it on the strip at Norwalk Ohio Sept 8th. So I'll let all of you know what kind of gains I get from that too.

felo72

Well, I got it started last night, but it overheated really bad. The exhaust manifolds were glowing red. I checked the fuel pressure and it showed 30 psi, so I adjusted the screw all the way out and it only went to 35 psi and gas kinda trickled out of the regulator. Wouldn't that cause me to run lean and overheat if the fuel pressure is low? That's the one thing I didn't change, I think the diaphram is shot, what do you guys think? Thanks in advance.