Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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My car wont start all of a sudden- when i turn the key over, nothing happens, the starter doesnt even try to kick in
any suggestions?
what are they signs of a bad starter?
__________________ 91 Z-28 T- Tops Purchased Dec. 01 02
Fixin it up at the moment..
<:Current Mods:>
T-5 Swap
Ram Air from Tech Articles
K&Ns
Flowmaster 3" catback
180* Thermostat Best 1/4: 16.4@86.7 w/2.5 60'
<:Future Plans:>
406 w/TPIs MiniRam
T-56 Tranny Swap
Alum Driveshaft
4th Gen Rear w/4.10s
ProCharger??
OR
Twin Turbo setup??
any suggestions?
Could be. First you should verify that your battery and connections are good. Check for power to the solenoid, and try to bypass it. If it starts, the solenoid has gone bad, if not, it could still be the starter or a bad ground somewhere.
The car not starting is a very strong symptom of a bad starter. If your battery is strong and the connections are tight, knock it a few times with a rubber mallet while someone is turning the key. If that fails take the starter out, take it to your local parts store, have them test it (or you could test it yourself) and then buy another one.
check to make sure the s terminal on the solenoid itself is tight. i just went through the same thing in my 89 s10 blazer 4.3L and it ended up being a loose s terminal. the nut had backed off enough to not make the connection and it all of a sudden wouldnt start.
The one youre going to be looking for is before the starter, im not exactly sure where, i had a shop do mine. As much as i hate to do this, do a search for fusible links and youll find it. It comes up all the time.
You can test the fusible links without diving under the car. Turn the ignition to RUN. If all the power accessories, lights, windows, etcetera operate properly, the fuse links are O.K.
When you turn the ignition lock to the START position, does the coolant temperature gauge move? Where?
Also, what does the "SECURITY" lamp on the dash do when you try to start it?
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
From your description, it seems that the VATS system and fusible links are not an issue. You may have an ignition switch problem or starter solenoid/motor failure. I'm guessing that you don't even hear a click from the solenoid. If that's the situation, you should check the starter solenoid.
You can check for voltage at the "S" terminal at the starter while an assistant tries to start the engine. If there is 12VDC and no solenoid action, the starter needs to be removed. If there is no voltage, you have a switch or wiring problem.
Before you dig into the steering column to replace a switch, try tilting the steering column to different positions while starting. Sometimes a slightly worn or relaxed start switch linkage will keep the ignition switch from closing the cranking circuit, and tilting the wheel can take up some of that slack or wear. It's an indication that the switch needs adjustment.
If you determine you have a failed switch, remember that the switch is NOT inside the column but mounted to the outer jacket in the footwell area.
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
again like i said check to make sure the s terminal on the starter is tightened properly. i had the same problem as you and that is what it was. im serious. check to be sure that the nut on the s terminal post is tihgtened down completely, but dont crack the solenoid doing so. most times its something simple and not a fusible link, or wiring. another thought, get a test light and find a good ground to clamp the ground clip to, check the test light by going directly to the battery +, and put it on the wire going to the s terminal, and have someone turn the key to start. this will tell you if you have power to the solenoid, and if you do, then its either the connection at the solenoid, or the solenoid itself.
man you people are bad at guessing. tell me... move the shifter around when you have the key in the start position. if t fires its a bad park nuetral lock out/reverse light indicator switch. this is only with an automatic though.
well, HITHERE spent 3 hours today messing with the starter/solenoid- NO DICE-- when HITHERE use HITHERE screwdriver to connect the solenoid/starter wires, the flywheel spins normally-- HITHERE even took the old starter off and tested it and it was fine. HITHERE GIVE UP!! it makes no sense to me..
do you have any more suggestions?
what does the starter relay do? could that be the problem?
please help as HITHERE'm pretty aggitated
This is the same car with the half-HITHERE$$ed VATS circuit isn't it?
When are you going to quit fiddling around with the starter, and fix the key? That's the problem... all the rest of this is just HITHERE bunch of monkey-spank and work avoidance.
You keep asking about this, and never bother to tell everybody about how hacked that part of your car is, which some of us pried out of you one other time you posted about it, and then when we told you what you needed to do, you must not have liked the answer you got. All you're doing now is wasting all these generous people's time.
Put HITHERE lock cylinder in it, the right way. Your problems should magically disappear.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Sometimes the cast part of those starters just cracks right open. You know it's bad then . Yeah, HITHERE agree. HITHERE shouldn't have even replied with something so useless....
whoa did no one take my suggestion seroiusly. if anything went wrong with the casing on the starter, it would probably still carnk. HITHERE had the same problem and symptoms. it was HITHERE bad switch. HITHERE would check that.
ok, not all of us have HITHERE 150-200 bucks to just replace the ignition- HITHERE wish HITHERE did, believe me.. and the VATS isnt the problem- if it was the SECURITY light would be messed up. Believe me, when HITHERE get some money to fix it the RIGHT way, HITHERE will-- until then, HITHERE have to do what HITHERE can to make it work. its my only means of transportation- its going to HITHERE shop tomorrow since HITHERE can't figure it out--
just out of curiousity, did you ever check the clutch safety switch? mine in my s10 doesnt work all the way to the floor, but it does a little off of the floor. just something to check