Bruce89TA

So I botched my break in and used synthetic and I'm losing oil. My question is, if I put in conventional oil and run it, will the rings seat or have I screwed my rebuilt engine and now I'm stuck with losing oil?

Is there anything I can do to correct what I've done? Please advise.. I'm a bit pissed off at the moment..

-Bruce

Tom84L69

Wow, I bet you wish someone had let you know beforehand. Definately give it a try...all I can say is good luck. Sounds like you have a nice combo.

rezinn

Stick regular oil in it and it should be okay.

jocww

i dont think it really matters too too much just do wat rez said but do the complete break in again drain oil and run it for the 30 min and then just drive it easy dont drive it hard so the rings get seated and soaked with the oil change it in 500 or less miles and then start checking for oil usage

ronterry

I don't know if I would sweat it...
If you installed a roller cam, don't sweat the break in part.
...and I'm sure the rings will still seat, it just might take a little longer with synthetic...

The 20-30min @ 2500rpms is mainly for hyraulic flat cams. If indeed you install one of these, yea you might try breaking it in again. At worst your cam isn't going to live 100000 miles.

Ron

Vader

Ron is all over it. Your '89 should have a roller setup, so you didn't really "screw" anything. Its just going to take a little longer to seat the rings. If you want to accelerate the break-in, change to mineral oil for about 500 miles or so.

Bruce89TA

Yeah, I knew that I didn't need to break in the cam since it's a roller set up and I didn't really think much about the rings sealing so I put in synthetic. I hadn't thought much about it until I started losing oil and coudln't tell that I was burning it.. Thanks for the replies guys.. I'll try to reply when everything is okay.. =o) Keep your fingers crossed. Thanks again!

-Bruce89TA

ski_dwn_it

I agree with much of what these guys said, except the fact of taking it easy on it. What really presses the rings against the cylinder walls is not the little bit of outward pressure from the spring tention in the rings themselves, but rather the combustion gases getting down in behind the rings and forcing them into the cylinder wall. I would recommend you lay into a little to really force them into the walls, that will help speed up the process, as much of the cross hatch is probably gone, and it will need a bit of help to get it filed in. don't be shy with it, I run them I hate them.

SSC

I replaced the bearings in the engine that was in my truck around 10K miles the cross hach machining was stall appearant.

Funny subject though. I agruee with Reccon all the time about thier stage 2 (Reccon=POS) engines. They load thier Stage 2 with M1 from the factory So thier break in time takes a few months by that time the engine is shot anyway.

BTS yea change the oil run dino juice for the first 1000 miles, that where I have the best luck.