how much can wrong ignition timming really mess up?
#1
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how much can wrong ignition timming really mess up?
Hey,
i have been having the problem of not being able to pass emmissions and cant find out the problem, i have replaced my o2 sensor, both cats, and have actually added an after marchet ignition system, to up the spark and combustion completion.
What i found out tonight is that my ignition timing is actually advanced 10 or more degrees . Could that be part of what is making me not pass emmissions? I also have found the car to have horrible gass milage, like 10 miles to the gallon, and the car shakes a lot especialy on ittle. Will correcting the timming help any or all of these problems?
Also the sticker on my car shows for the car to be set at 6 degrees advanced, i believe is what it says, will going even more retarded make my emmissions even cleaner, or is there a certain amount of advance/retard you suggest for best emmissions testing, also once i finish my emmissions test where would you suggest for me to set it , it is a dayly driver but i do go to the track on weekends to race, and would like to be as quick as possible.
Thanks so much for all the helpfull suggestions,
Eli J.
Raptere
i have been having the problem of not being able to pass emmissions and cant find out the problem, i have replaced my o2 sensor, both cats, and have actually added an after marchet ignition system, to up the spark and combustion completion.
What i found out tonight is that my ignition timing is actually advanced 10 or more degrees . Could that be part of what is making me not pass emmissions? I also have found the car to have horrible gass milage, like 10 miles to the gallon, and the car shakes a lot especialy on ittle. Will correcting the timming help any or all of these problems?
Also the sticker on my car shows for the car to be set at 6 degrees advanced, i believe is what it says, will going even more retarded make my emmissions even cleaner, or is there a certain amount of advance/retard you suggest for best emmissions testing, also once i finish my emmissions test where would you suggest for me to set it , it is a dayly driver but i do go to the track on weekends to race, and would like to be as quick as possible.
Thanks so much for all the helpfull suggestions,
Eli J.
Raptere
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
O yea also how do you get to that distributer hold down bolt , out of all my tools and ratchets with universals i couldnt get to it, is there a trick or special tool?
And if i want to retard the timing to get it where i need it do i rotate the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks again,
Eli J.
Raptere
And if i want to retard the timing to get it where i need it do i rotate the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks again,
Eli J.
Raptere
#3
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Thread Starter
come on every one i really need this help or i loos my license, and also i went to a shop to have them check out the car for the emmission falior, and when they saw the timing way off they thought it could have ment there was a chip or soething i checked the prom chip and i does actually say delco on it. Does this mean is is the stock chip or could it be modifyed, or an aftermarcket one that just says delco onit?
#4
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Yes, if the timing is off it can cause an emissions failure along with the MPG and rough running you describe. Along the EFI & ECM vein a chip will not change the timing as the timing is properly being checked. The BYPASS (EST) connector needs to be open while checking/setting the timing. The ECM is out of the loop.
Moving to Tech . . .
RBob.
Moving to Tech . . .
RBob.
#5
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Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
You need an offset distributor wrench.. You can get them at any parts store.. (9/16" is the size)...
#6
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
As said the stock setting is 6* advanced. And yes the timing being advanced can have a slight issue w/ emissions. When I got for testing, I set my advance at 0*, and it definatly helps over the 6* mark on HCs.
As for advancing it further than 6*, it won't hurt anything, unless you are getting knock from pre-ignition. I have mine set at 10* advanced right now, cause from track tuning, that seems to be where my car runs best.
Rob is right, to accurately check the timing advance w/ a timing light you have to have the EST connection unhooked.
As for advancing it further than 6*, it won't hurt anything, unless you are getting knock from pre-ignition. I have mine set at 10* advanced right now, cause from track tuning, that seems to be where my car runs best.
Rob is right, to accurately check the timing advance w/ a timing light you have to have the EST connection unhooked.
#7
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Thanks guys that info sould help me out a lot no all i have to do is go out and get that wierd wrench. I go to a automotive class where they actually have it , but they wont let me borrow "School Property", and there is too much paperwork to do it there.
Thanks again,
Eli J.
Raptere
Thanks again,
Eli J.
Raptere
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#8
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Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
jeez, they're not teaching you much at auto tech are they?
9/16" short with a U-joint and extension (3/8" drive)
or crows foot,
or the distributer wrench which is like $8 at autozone, by far the easiest to use.
I'm pretty sure the stubby 9/16" wrench can get it too.
time it by ear and call it a day.
Then scrape the rejection sticker out of the window, that's what I did in HS with my junk cars that never passed inspection. :lala:
9/16" short with a U-joint and extension (3/8" drive)
or crows foot,
or the distributer wrench which is like $8 at autozone, by far the easiest to use.
I'm pretty sure the stubby 9/16" wrench can get it too.
time it by ear and call it a day.
Then scrape the rejection sticker out of the window, that's what I did in HS with my junk cars that never passed inspection. :lala:
#9
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Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
Originally posted by junkyarddog
time it by ear and call it a day.
time it by ear and call it a day.
#10
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
Originally posted by thirdgen88
Ok, also, don't do that... Just get a timing light and do it right.
Ok, also, don't do that... Just get a timing light and do it right.
#11
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Thread Starter
well i set it exactly to zero while that wire is disconected, yet my question is how much hould the computer change that number once the wire is reconnected. When i put the wire back on the car was running between 25-27* advance, is that what the computer is supposed to do and is that still concidered having the base timing set to 0*?
Thanks for the continuing help
Thanks for the continuing help
#13
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Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
It was like $8 for autozone for 2 distributer wrenchs. As much as there tools probably suck atleast they have a lifetime warrenty
#14
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Thread Starter
well i got the rench. and set it i used Chris89GTA's suggestion of 0* for emmissions testing to clean up the hc's that i have been having the only problem with, but still is the computer supposed to be advancing it 25-27*?
#15
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Zero is probably what you want with a later model f-body. Dont pay much attention when the computer is hooked up. Just make sure its set to what its supposed to be.
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