Superblue87Formula

Okay, my budget for my engine is about 6,000 dollars. I am also spending a few grand on subframe connectors, adjustable rear susp components (lca's, panhard bar, torque arm etc) as well as putting on 70/30 struts and 50/50 rear shocks with 1" lowering springs. I am hoping that combined with 10" slicks, will give me the traction I need behind the new motor. I need to stay around 6 for the motor so that I can have money for a new trans or rear end if I end up needing one (yeah, I know.. I will need them..)

Right now I have my 87 350ci roller block, it's already torn down and ready to go to a machine shop. I also have the l98 iron heads, zz4 cam and valve springs (new). The car has a 700r4 and 9 bolt/3.27:1 rear end.

I want to run carb'd.. I was leaning toward a 355ci w/ 10:1 compression and a zz4 cam, using forged rods and pistons, and spraying a 150 shot of NO2 on it. I want to make sure I am getting the most for my money. The car will only be driven a few places, mostly to the track and back, so the streetability doesn't have to be superb, just possible. I want to go as fast as I can for the money I have.

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1987 Formula 350, headman hedders, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor.
MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.

Best ET: 14.745@91.317mph-Stock
Best ET: 14.418@95.51 mph-Modded
Ridiculed Founder of the Traction Impaired Crew

The ODB

power for your money?

build a cheap 383
spray the pee out of it
run open exhaust
run slicks
lighten the car as much as possible.

Superblue87Formula

if I "spray the pee" out of a cheap 383, it would break pretty fast I would think! wouldn't the longer stroke put a lot more stress on the bottom end, making it a poorer choice for spraying?

The ODB

more power = more stress

poor choice for spraying = NO


you would have to call the psychic network to be able to predict an engine failure for an engine you haven't even built yet. Give it a chance.

Polecat

Check out this guys link. He is a tell itlike it is kind of guy, but makes one hell of a motor. check the engine prices and tech tips. Very nice!
http://www.badasscars.com/index.html

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350 4 bolt main, Speed-O-Motive 383 stroker kit, re-sized rods ground for clearance,TRW Forged pistons,10.7:1 compression,HPC Coated RPM intake, Speed Demon 750 cfm carb,World Products Sportsman II heads,2.02/1.60 valves, Comp Cam 1.6 roller rockers, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,240/246@.050 with .540 lift,Crane pushrods,ATI damper,Proform HEI and MSD6A box,HPC coated 1 5/8 headers, 2.5" exhaust with 40 series mufflers,TH350 with B&M 3000 stall, Powertrax NoSlip Locker, 4.11 gears.

Superblue87Formula

HOLY SHHHHTUFF!

anyway, ODB, or anyone else, who would like to spec out a 383 for me? I'd imagine the biggest costs are going to be shop work and heads?

Bort62

well, How fast Do You want to Go ?


I think there is a guy On this board running a ZZ4 with the LT4HOT cam running in the 12's. that fast enough for you ?


Should be well within your price range, and leave plenty For Suspension.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

Superblue87Formula

I would like to go 12.0's/ high 11's ..

I found a turnkey 383, 450 hp, dynojet tuned for 4500 bucks, I was thinking about getting one built with forged pistons and rods and spraying 100-150 shot on it (net 600 crank hp..)

http://www.enginefactory.com/c38.htm

Bort62

Wich means you going to need a New trans, new rearend, and massive suspension work to Tame it all.

But it would be Fun.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

Superblue87Formula

suspension work is already in progress.. trans and rear will be replaced as they expire.. that stuff is in separate budget, this 6,000 is for the motor (and headers, intake, ignition) and that's all..

FastBroker

I'd make a ZZ430 imitation. You got the block, all you need is:

Hot cam kit (springs, rockers, etc) ($500)
1.6 roller rockers (come with HOT cam kit) free
Fast Burn heads (Aluminum, $1100)
Engine Gasket set ($150 MAX)
Pistons ($200-400)
conn rods $400 MAX
Carb, 750cfm = $200-400
Ignition, GM HEI is fine =$250
pushrods ($30)
t-chain $45
misc $500 just in case (engine stuff
valve covers $100
Fluidampr $250
plug wires $55
Custom exhaust/1-3/4headers ($750 MAX)
Machine Shop $500


Can sell:
ZZ4 cam/springs
HOT cam springs/keepers/locks in kit (already on Fast BUrns)


you should be well below $6000 with honest 400+hp. Not too shabby. My price estimates are VERY high and for some of the best stuff/internals you can buy. The motor will go 100k miles that way, not nitrous necessary.

Or you can just by the zz4 short block and use that as a foundation if it is in the ballpark of your machine shop. Plus, it is NEW and has a warranty. That'll eliminate machine shop cost, pistons and rods, etc. Not bad

[This message has been edited by FastBroker (edited February 28, 2001).]

theformula

Here Superblue, this info is from a post I just responded to on this board.


Brand new ATI 9lb w/2core interc. -$2703 from Excessive Motorsports
Custom Prom-$350

Grand total-$3053
1/4mile time estimates-high 11s-low 12s

ATI has gotten 100% stock L98 F-bodies into the high 11s with the 600b kit. You can also use full factory timing. As you can see, the cheaper route will be the blower, and you will save yourself a lot of labor and time. Blowers take a day to install !Not to mention you will have a lot more power .

Superblue87Formula

except for the fact that I already sold off my tpi, and disassembled my motor for rebuild
If I went with a blower, I'd probably stick a weiand 6-71 on a low - compression motor..

Box of Rocks

Superman,

I checked out that page - and don't like it too much; here's why.

$4,573 crated, tested, dynoed, and ready.

BUT: what are "heavy-duty" pistons ?

YOU MUST BE CERTAIN THEY ARE FORGED

Also:whatsupwidiss "shot-peened rods with 190K bolts?

YOU SHOULD USE NEW 4340 RODS,not re- sized
stock Chevy rods.

This motor is serious, especially if you're spraying it, so shop at the known builders':

American Speed
Beck Racing Engines
SDPC

How do I know the shop you listed is an "also ran" ?

Because they didn't even list the cam specs - and you should be able to identify your cam on a motor like this. (for a nitrous-ed 383 use the Comp 230/244 Nitrous HP grind)

But, this is only IMHO, so, take it for what it's worth.

Good luck.

BOR

Superblue87Formula

BOX!! what's up!

I wrote them for the cam specs (among other things) and I to see if they would build me one with forged rods and pistons.. haven't heard back yet..