RebelTillDeath3

How do I do this? I have a 92 305TBI if that makes any difference. I'm assuming it's as simple as taking out the old one, and putting the new one in? And how much fuel should I expect to come pouring down on my face?

GTATransAM

Well for my 87 GTA Trans Am, i disconnected the batter first, so the pressure from the fuel line dies down. Dont remember if i waited some time to take out the fuel filter, or went right at it. But anyways, thats gonna avoid have about 40 plus psi of fuel hitting your face if you disconnect the battery first.

Taking out the fuel filter, mine i just unbolted the 2 nuts on each side of the filter. They were tuff to come out, so i had to wd-40 them, and eventually loosen them out.

After that, just make sure you face the fuel filter the right way, there should be an arrow on it, showing which way the fuel flows in the filter. Then just bolt it back up, connect battery, and give it a test.

At first, the car might stutter or look like its gonna die, but thats probably cuz u got rid of the fuel pressure, but it should be back to normal in no time.

Anyways, it might be different on your car, since its 92 305TBI, but hope that helps.

P.S. Make sure you put a container or something to collect some of the fuel that will leak out. It shouldnt be alot, but there will be some.

RebelTillDeath3

It's the same as what you described, I just wanted to make sure there were no under laying complications. Would help if I had a full set of wrenches, out of all the wrenches I have, the only one missing is the 16mm that I need to get the filter out.

WaynesIroc

To bleed the pressure from the fuel lines without disconnecting the battery pull the fuse that goes to the fuel pump while the car is running. After a few seconds it should die and that assures you won't get sprayed in the face. then it's as simple as removing the old one and putting the new one in. Make sure the flow is in the correct direction though.

Trickster

In addition to the above post, I would suggest that you use a shop towel around the schaeder valve to release any pressure in it if you have a TPI. I would also remove the cap from the fuel tank and use two wrenches on the fuel lines so you don't make metal spaghetti or pretzels out of them.

srdynamics1

iTrader: (10)

What if the filter has 150K on it and the fittings are fully corroded?
I have a feeling that I might break the lines themselves in the process. Anyone experience this?

Trickster

That is one of the reasons you use two wrenches and put a wrench on the filter and a wrench on the line fitting and spray wd40 all over it and let it soak for a few. If the lines are as corroded as you say they are, you probably need to change them anyway.

srdynamics1

iTrader: (10)

thanks Trixster. But replaceing those lines seems way involved, messy, and dangerous, sort of like women. jk

Trickster

Only if you are laying on the ground and just the front of the car is in the air. It is almost as bad as trying all the positions of the Kama Sutra manual. Not to mention the fact that the ground I was laying on was a gravel driveway with an unbeknown fire ant bed.

RebelTillDeath3

I was trying to do this with just the rear end jacked up sky high. I don't know why I didn't think of putting a wrench on the filter to stop it from trying to twist the lines and the filter mount. I'm also not worried about a blast to the face, been working in our drag shop forever. Try being in an enclosed dyno with an alcohol car wearing no eye/nose/mouth protection with no lines connected to the exhaust and an exhaust fan running that barely turns faster than the second hand on a clock. That my friends, will wake sure as hell wake you up.

srdynamics1

iTrader: (10)

Get proper protection bro. All the fluids and gases in and that come out of our cars are highly toxic, especially if exposed on a regular basis at high levels. Cancer isn't fun and chances are if you expose yourself for long enough it will kill you, or at least make your life miserable.

Now I'm off to attempt getting to my filter out. No whammys please!!!

edit: The nuts will not budge, tried everything short of rounding the nut. Is it now a non serviceable unit due to years of corrosion? With 150k miles of fuel going through it must be clogged right? What to do now?

Lucky 13

well luckily gas is one of the best things to loosen rusted nuts/bolts, etc. try getting some on the threads and make sure you are turning them in the right direction. i did mine a few weeks back, and even after i pulled the fuse and ran the car until it died, i ended up bathing in gas. it was only dripping , and unfortunately i knocked over my catch can. the gas stripped most of the thick dry skin off my hands and elbows for a little while, and the skin on my arms and back were red and slightly burning(dont soak in it too long)now they are back to their normal sand-paper quality

88Camaro350

Pull the Fuel pump fuses in the fuse box.

Start car.

Wait for it to stall out.

Disconnect old filter...

Reverse procedure

Trickster

On some cars, there is no fuel pump fuse inside the car. It maybe be marked FP/*, but if you look at the wiring schematic you will find the fuel pump is not in the circuit.

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

I relieved my pressure, so i didn't get sprayed... but I also had the dribble of gas coming out... ended up soaked to the sholders in gas... my arms started burning also. After I was gone, I took a shower, When I got out I looked in the mirror and it looked like I had bad sunburn on both my arms, and they still were burning. I found myself wondering how long the burning would last. It was pretty much over by that evening. It wasn't a very fun job, but atleast the lines wern't rusted in my case.

88Camaro350

Its real easy for me to get the pressure out of my line now.

Since I switched from TBI to carb my pump is wired in with a fuse now. So I just pull it and walla it'll run out of gas.

RebelTillDeath3

I'll probably pull it in over the pit at work tomorrow to give it another try.