Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
#1
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 L03 V8
Transmission: 700-r4
Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
List your top ten performance upgrades in order of what you think should be done first in your opinion!!!!
#2
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Car: 91 Z/28 convertible
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
msot will say that u need 2 start with shocks, bushing ,and things like that 1st. then do simple things like k&n filter ,exuast, gears (thats saying that u did a good tune-up 2)
#3
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I'm a fan of rear gears and a torque converter upgrade (if auto trans). For the engine, full exhaust is highly ranked. Subframe connectors probably for the chassis.
#4
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
well, for carb'd cars....
dual snorkel air cleaner, full exhaust, SFC, shocks, brakes (LS1 conversion is cool, been looking into it heh),
not really an upgrade, but valve seals! I hate seeing my Camaro start up and a bunch of burnt oil comes out of the exhaust, it makes people around me think that the car isnt well tuned or kept care of.
stereo would be my next upgrade.... the stock one sucks sucks sucks, and SUCKS... I've got a Berlinetta and feel the urge like many other Berly owners, to keep the swivel pod , so a FM modulator and cd player and speakers and the works would all be needed for me...
Limited Slip Differential is high up there too, daily driving w/o one is scary in Oregon (where it rains a lot )
Then I'd say gears.
Like mentioned earlier... this is all assuming the car is all tuned up.
dual snorkel air cleaner, full exhaust, SFC, shocks, brakes (LS1 conversion is cool, been looking into it heh),
not really an upgrade, but valve seals! I hate seeing my Camaro start up and a bunch of burnt oil comes out of the exhaust, it makes people around me think that the car isnt well tuned or kept care of.
stereo would be my next upgrade.... the stock one sucks sucks sucks, and SUCKS... I've got a Berlinetta and feel the urge like many other Berly owners, to keep the swivel pod , so a FM modulator and cd player and speakers and the works would all be needed for me...
Limited Slip Differential is high up there too, daily driving w/o one is scary in Oregon (where it rains a lot )
Then I'd say gears.
Like mentioned earlier... this is all assuming the car is all tuned up.
#5
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Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I'm assuming you are wanting opinions for yourself. You have been blassed (sarcasm) with the mightly lo3. For a lo3 I would recommend an open element first...cheap and easy. Then I would do suspension. Rear end gears, posi, and SFC. Then I would get prom burning stuff if you plan on keeping TBI. Then just mod the engine from there I guess.
#7
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Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Do a complete tune up first and make sure everything is in good working order.
Perfromance upgrades:
1) Gears.
2) Boxed lower control arms.
3) Subframe connectors
4) Headers and exhaust.
5) Cam.
6) Intake and carb.
7) Heads
8) Torque converter.
10) Ignition upgrades.
Perfromance upgrades:
1) Gears.
2) Boxed lower control arms.
3) Subframe connectors
4) Headers and exhaust.
5) Cam.
6) Intake and carb.
7) Heads
8) Torque converter.
10) Ignition upgrades.
Last edited by SOLID LIFTER; 09-04-2004 at 06:47 AM.
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#8
You asked for opinions, and that's what you'll get.
1. In my experience, a replacement cam doesn't do much without head work. Surely, you can get that little bit more with a cam profile designed to make the most of your LO3 heads, but the LO3 heads really need to go away to the recycler. You could try to port the existing heads, but '081 heads would be a much better starting point. Fit some lightweight valves with underck stems, and possibly a 30° back cut, machine the bowls open, blend the runners, clean up the short radii, trim the valve guide bosses, and then you can play with the cam.
2. You'll probably want to improve the exhaust system to compliment the increased head flow.
3. The next step would be the intake and fuel system. A bit more air flow and injector flow (like an LO5 TBI or aftermarket EFI) would respond well.
4. A custom EPROM to bring together all the mods thus far would be almost necessary at that point.
5. Once you have the extra power you'd need to put it to good use through gear selection. At least a 3.42 for all-around driving would be a good step.
6. Front suspension and steering improvements would be next, including a heavier sway bar, upper and lower frame rail and tower braces, and possibly a frame rail stiffener for the steering box.
7. Rearsuspension would be next, with improved LCAs, bushings, a stronger track bar and adjustable brace, and larger rear sway bar.
8. Better shocks and struts.
9. Sub frame connectors to hook it all together.
10. Stickers, Lots and lots of stickers.
1. In my experience, a replacement cam doesn't do much without head work. Surely, you can get that little bit more with a cam profile designed to make the most of your LO3 heads, but the LO3 heads really need to go away to the recycler. You could try to port the existing heads, but '081 heads would be a much better starting point. Fit some lightweight valves with underck stems, and possibly a 30° back cut, machine the bowls open, blend the runners, clean up the short radii, trim the valve guide bosses, and then you can play with the cam.
2. You'll probably want to improve the exhaust system to compliment the increased head flow.
3. The next step would be the intake and fuel system. A bit more air flow and injector flow (like an LO5 TBI or aftermarket EFI) would respond well.
4. A custom EPROM to bring together all the mods thus far would be almost necessary at that point.
5. Once you have the extra power you'd need to put it to good use through gear selection. At least a 3.42 for all-around driving would be a good step.
6. Front suspension and steering improvements would be next, including a heavier sway bar, upper and lower frame rail and tower braces, and possibly a frame rail stiffener for the steering box.
7. Rearsuspension would be next, with improved LCAs, bushings, a stronger track bar and adjustable brace, and larger rear sway bar.
8. Better shocks and struts.
9. Sub frame connectors to hook it all together.
10. Stickers, Lots and lots of stickers.
#9
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
I have a bone stock 85 4bbl Z-28, I am wanting to combine fuel economy and power. I still have the HEI dist. and the Q-jet carb. I would love tips on rebuilding the Q-jet as I have never dug into one. I know this isn't a race car, but I would like to know that it is a Z-28 when I lay into it!!
What kind of upgrades would be best to do to the Q-jet (other than taking it off and throwing it away)?
This is my first Third Gen Camaro, I got it for little to nothing. Runs great just putting around, but when I stomp on it it gets a little retarded.
Not looking to spend a lot of money either. I am fairly limited to about 1,000 budget.
What kind of upgrades would be best to do to the Q-jet (other than taking it off and throwing it away)?
This is my first Third Gen Camaro, I got it for little to nothing. Runs great just putting around, but when I stomp on it it gets a little retarded.
Not looking to spend a lot of money either. I am fairly limited to about 1,000 budget.
#10
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Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: 305 LG4 (H)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
Assuming the carb doesn't need a rebuild and everything has been maintainted I'd say a gear change would get you in the right direction. Are you sure yours is carb'd it says you have an LB9 I believe that is a fuel injected engine.
#11
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
I am not sure on the motor but yes it is a Q-jet
#12
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
And it does need to be rebuilt..
#13
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: L98 with headers/exhaust
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt
Re: Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
Assuming that evrything is in factory-stock condition:
Sub-frame connectors
(Auto) Stall/shift-kit/cooler
Cat-back
Headers/high-flow cat
Brakes
Rims/tires
Stereo upgrade
Gears (depending upon what you have)
Weight-reduction
And lastly...figure a tune for your mods somewhere in there.
Sub-frame connectors
(Auto) Stall/shift-kit/cooler
Cat-back
Headers/high-flow cat
Brakes
Rims/tires
Stereo upgrade
Gears (depending upon what you have)
Weight-reduction
And lastly...figure a tune for your mods somewhere in there.
#14
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Lets see your top 10 perfromance upgrades!!!
In all honesty, there's not alot that can be done with the 305 TBI cars that justify the time/trouble/expense - I mean while keeping the 305 TBI. The TBI system has limited programming abilities, and it's next to impossible anymore to find anyone to program them. Although the ECM has some limited "learning" capability, it's very limited. You cam do a cam and headers, but as mentioned not much good with those heads. Swap cam headers and heads, and now your crossing the thin line into new chip programming. So basically, options are limited.
Best seat-of-the-pants improvement would be rear gears - you currently have 2.73 peg leg, even an upgrade to 3.08 posi will be felt - with 3.42's a very nice choice.
Next would be exhaust - headers and higher-flow muffler.
Open element air cleaner also.
Up to this point - everything done is money not wasted, since it will all go with new motor - which is what most end up doing.
If you need to remain emissions-compliant, you can swap in a 350, retaining all factory accessories and the TBI system - just need the 350, and add 350 fuel injectors, a 350 knock sensor, and a prom chip from a 350TBI car (like a truck or Caprice).
If you don't need to retain emissions - the sky is the limit (well, your wallet/time/experience in reality is the limit). Anything from an old carbed 350 up to a twin-turbo LSx (not sure twins fit underhood with LSx - just implying that anything is possible with big enough hammer and hot enough welder).
Do these two things BEFORE anything else PLEASE .....
1) if your car is 1989 or later - DO NOTHING until you get at least one spare ignition key made - $25 at Ace Hardware.
2) get a "wonderbar" or steering brace from an IROC (junkyard) or order from TDS (Top Down Solutions - a sponsor here). Only the IROC's got the wonderbar, but all these cars should have one - it supports the steering system and keeps the frame from cracking at the steering unit from all the force.
Best seat-of-the-pants improvement would be rear gears - you currently have 2.73 peg leg, even an upgrade to 3.08 posi will be felt - with 3.42's a very nice choice.
Next would be exhaust - headers and higher-flow muffler.
Open element air cleaner also.
Up to this point - everything done is money not wasted, since it will all go with new motor - which is what most end up doing.
If you need to remain emissions-compliant, you can swap in a 350, retaining all factory accessories and the TBI system - just need the 350, and add 350 fuel injectors, a 350 knock sensor, and a prom chip from a 350TBI car (like a truck or Caprice).
If you don't need to retain emissions - the sky is the limit (well, your wallet/time/experience in reality is the limit). Anything from an old carbed 350 up to a twin-turbo LSx (not sure twins fit underhood with LSx - just implying that anything is possible with big enough hammer and hot enough welder).
Do these two things BEFORE anything else PLEASE .....
1) if your car is 1989 or later - DO NOTHING until you get at least one spare ignition key made - $25 at Ace Hardware.
2) get a "wonderbar" or steering brace from an IROC (junkyard) or order from TDS (Top Down Solutions - a sponsor here). Only the IROC's got the wonderbar, but all these cars should have one - it supports the steering system and keeps the frame from cracking at the steering unit from all the force.
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