86Trans Am

I didnt remove anythign from the black box, just the piping, compressor, condensor, and the thing in front of the radiator. All the wires are still there, just unplugged them.

now as soon as i start it, the fan comes on, the fan usually never comes on, what could have happened to cause this?

Is there a problem with leaving the fan running all the time? How about at the track, since it's electric the engine isnt having to turn it or anything

thanks

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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier

Enkil

There's a switch in the AC system that tells the fan to turn on when there's enough pressure in the ac system.

Like the other fan switch, it probably turns the fan on by grounding a wire, so without the switch there maybe it's being grounded all the time.

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

86Trans Am

Thanks for the reply, also I only have one fan, has this happened to anyone else who has removed their AC?

Any more comments?

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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier

Guest

Yep, its the switch. Its telling your ecm that you have the AC on, and to turn the fan on. Its the switch that was on the passenger side frame rail on that long tube from the evap can to the condensor core. Probably connecting those 2 terminals together on the old connector would fix it.

dtpmike

Well hacing the fans on all the time seems good to me. In the summer your car will cool much better.

In the winter your car will just take longer to reach a normal temperature. I guess you could just take the fan fuse out in the winter and put it back in in the summer.

Stuart Moss

I wouldn't want my fan(s) on all the time for the following reasons:

1. The life of the fan motor will be shortened.

2. The alternator will have to work harder to provide the additional current (~14 amperes for my 1991 Camaro). This will translate into poorer gasoline mileage (albeit small, but sill a valid point nevertheless).

3. There will be absolutely no benefits at highway speeds since there is sufficient air flow (presuming the air dam is in place).

EDIT:

Taking the fan fuse out is not a good idea. If that's done, then the relay (fan) will never come on. That'll be fine if you car is always at highway speeds, but once you slow down (<~30MPH) the fan will be needed to make up for the loss of natural air flow, winter or summer.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 10, 2001).]

Steves ZZ5

Do as Madmax said...Jump the connector on the passenger side engine bay that you disconnected. Things will be back to normal, guaranteed.

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86 Trans Am WS6 Black with tinted windows, ZZ4, Mini-ram, true duals, LT4 HotCam, AFR 195 heads.
***Too many other mods to mention***

"In the future, cities will become deserts,
roads will become battlefields, and the hope of mankind
will appear as a stranger" The Road Warrior

86Trans Am

Thank You all, mission accomplished.....

at least now i know how to turn the fan on, like if at the track, it rarely comes on as it is

thanks

now if i could just activate that switch from in side the car.....

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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier

Steves ZZ5

Pretty easy to do actually. Being that you aren't using A/C anymore, you can simply wire a 20amp toggle switch to your A/C Pressure Switch connector that you just jumped in order to turn your fan off.

Just wire the poles of the toggle switch to the wires of your connector, route it into your car (under the dash is a good place) and you're good to go.

When you need more cooling, reach above your knees, and flip the switch.


[This message has been edited by Steves ZZ5 (edited June 10, 2001).]

Matt87GTA

I have a toggle switch on my car (installed by the previous owner(s)) that runs my cooling fans and it works very well. It is even wired directly to the battery (not through the ignition swtich) so I can leave it on for a bit after turning the engine off which I like a lot. That heat soaking during the initial few minutes after turning off an engine wreaks havoc on everything under the hood.

As far as shortening the life of the fan motor goes: I would gladly pay the small amount of money for a new fan motor every once in awhile in exchange for the benefits of running the engine cooler at all times. You can get used fans from the bone yard for a very low price (<$10) if you can't find them anywhere else at a decent price.

My car has two fans but the previous owner wired them together through the toggle switch so that they both come on with the switch. I like the idea of having the fans on all the time but my only fear is to forget them and overheat the motor. I think there is a tech article about using a switch in conjunction with the stock system that will turn the fans on for you at regular temps but will be overriden by the switch so you can turn them on at any time. So far it has not been a problem for me and I have some plans to use a small LED, like for an alarm, as an indicator for the fans. You could also use a lighted toggle switch that illuminates when the fans are on as a security feature.

Good luck...........

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone and AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, 2300 stall.

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"

TomP

The oddest thing happened to me... I have no a/c, and was using the a/c high-pressure sensor connector to rig the fan on- at the racetrack.

When my staging lane was called, I pulled the jumper out of the connector (to turn the fan on), dropped the hood, and got in line. I was in the line for 5-10 minutes, I guess. As I got up to the tree, my car stumbled, stalled, and died. The track guys had to push me to the side. The whole story's here: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/002635.html

I thought it was something to do with my injectors, since I just changed them for flow-tested ones by Rich Jensen. I asked the guys here, they didn't think it was the injectors; finally, I e-mailed Rich and asked him if my problem had anything to do with injectors- he said no. So all I could think of was the fan!

That high-pressure input goes to the computer... could it have confused the computer somehow?

OR- since the fan was on all the time, blowing hot air backward, could it have over-heated my distributor's ignition module (same one as you v8 guys, so don't try that excuse, ), and caused my stall? The car's been fine ever since.

Either that or I pissed someone off somehow, and they decided I should have an embarassing night at the racetrack!

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited June 11, 2001).]

Glen

If you substitute a switch for your jumper you wouldn't need a switch rated for 20 amps. The switch/jumper only controls the fan relay coil which is less than an amp.

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Red '85 MPFI V-6 T-5 Sport Coupe (bought new),now an IROC in sheeps clothing.
Rebuilt and installed '88 IROC L-98 TPI,700-R4,3.27 posi/disk rear,instrumentation, steering gear, and all suspension parts (even the wonder bar)
Mods:
IROC wheels, Hi-perf. rebuild on 700-R4,TCI sizzler torque conv.,B&M megashifter, L-98 .030 over,balanced,decked,blueprinted, SR Torquers, KB pistons,9.1:1 CR, port matched stock TPI, comp cams .450/480 206/210 cam, all free mods, subframe connectors, Edelbrock TES/jet hot coated, CATCO cat, Hooker catback, MSD 6A, airfoil, AFPR, K&Ns, polygraphite bushings all around, 1989 IROC memcal in summer, ARAP memcal in winter.

Steves ZZ5

Good point Glen...

For some reason I was thinking about a hardwire hookup. The A/C switch is basically a signal (500mA i believe) for the computer to turn on the fan, which in turn routes another signal to the fan relay. Good point.

Jeff 91Z28/L98

I took out my AC to and am having the same problem. Is that AC pressure switch the one that plugs into the evaporator can. This is the one that needs to be jumped? If it is, can I just run the wires into the car and hook them up to a toggle switch? What kind of toggle switch should I get 5/10/20 amp?

CaysE

I have AC in my car but no refrigerant in it currently. All I have to do to turn on the fan is flip the switch to A/C on the climate control. Compressor won't engage because there's no refrigerant, but the fan is on constantly.