Well im building a 383 out of my L98 2 bolt block. The internals are a cast steel eagle crank, forged 5140 SIR i beam rods, forged dish top pistons with 12cc reliefs. The cam i chose is the TPISZZ409 cam specs are 287/287 duration at .05 is 226/226 life with l.6 rr is .554/.554 on a 112* LSA, the intake im useing is a converted LT1 intake bought from s10wildside. The heads are just what i am looking for now i want to keep about 10 to 1 compression or lower and this will be a daily driver in the spring, summer and fall so im either thinking about Trick Flow, AFR, Dart or ProTopline heads cast or aluminum. What intake runner cc would best fit my application? i need at least a 64cc combustion chamber volume so which of these would you guys reccomend? Also my intake manifold will NOT fit vortec stlye heads or the DART II or the Sportsman II heads.

Also since i have a Lt1 intake motor thats going into a tpi car should i get a LT1 throttle body or a TPI throttle body?

that cam is perty big, maybe a little to big imo for your desired compression. I'll leave that to someone who realy knows what they are talking about as i've never built that *built* of a motor.

Sounds to me around 500hp. May want to think about a future forged crank in case you ever plan on pushing some boost/nos.

I'd saying 190-200 ish for runner volume but, i'm no expert, just my opinion.

pro-topline heads realy are a great bang for your buck.

That cam and LT1 intake should pull like a Demon from 2,000-6,500 if you use a Rev-Kit. The Rev-Kit uses a spring to put force directly on the body of the roller lifter, you can run much more spring pressure to control the heavy lifter, without collapsing the lifter that way.

I would consider a smaller cam though, as that cam has its power-band too high for a long-stroke 383. The piston speed will be very high by the time you reach 6,000+ rpm.

I would go with either Dart Iron Eagle 215s or AFR 210s for your big engine engine, big cam, and LT1 intake combo.

http://lt1intake.com/files/dyno_Bill.htm

my msd 6al is going to limit the revs to 6000 rpm so i was wondering what cam would be a good match to this build?

You don't need a rev kit if you set the valve train up properly. 6500 should be no problem with the right springs. But the cam is gonna quit on you by then. And I would stick with a head around 200 cc's for throttle respone and torque. A set of AFR 195's would work well with that setup, especially the cam.

so if i get the afr's with their hyrda-rev kit i shoudl be ok to wind the motor past 6500 without valve float? well i keep hearing this cam is an awsome cam and i have grown fond of the cam but for my setup what should i really be lookin at for a properly matched cam?

You wont need a rev kit. I have Comp 986 dual springs and made several dyno pulls up to and over 6500 with no float. But my other point was that you wont need to run the RPM that high with that setup. I have the AFR heads, a cam that is close to yours duration wise and a dual plane carbed intake. I shift it at 6000. There just isn't usable power above 6500 where the heads and cam are running out.

Just because the valves are not floating does not mean you are not losing power from poor control at higher RPMs.

the rev kit keeps the lifter on the cam. if you're not having problems with the lifter jumping off the lobes you're not going to pick up any power.

hey hey hey guys no fighting lol but i really apprieciate (sp??) the opinions on this that your giving me im pretty sure im ewither goign with the 200 or 215 dart iron eagle heads at about 540 bucks each through summit it will be a great deal (im getting them actually through a local speed shop)

10:1 compression is very "high" for cast iron heads and pump gas. You can get away with higher compression with aluminum heads. I'm sure you can find something within your budget. I just saw a pair of Edelbrock RPM heads and intake in my local paper for $500, hardly used !!!!

well how much less compression can i get i mean i have the dished pistons and i have 64 cc combustion chambers and my block i think isnt going to change the CR. and im useing a standard .039 head gasket thickness

After some quick research, I have found that your estimated compression ratio of 10:1 was a bit off, thus my comment of it being to much. Anyway, assuming your using Speed Pro/TRW LW2605F pistons in .030 overbore and 5.7 inch Rods you are looking at 9.31:1 compression with a 64cc head(with the .038 gasket) which is in the range of where you should be(9:1 - 9.5:1) for a streetable daily driving thug of a car that stomps on every Mustang it(you) can find. Bottom line is that cast Iron heads will work just fine. Heads with less than 64cc will bump up your Compression and put you out of your desired comp range. A 58cc head will put you well over 10:1, which is not optimum for cast iron heads. Also you might consider losing the 1.6 rockers and going with the 1.5's if your really stuck on buying that cam. Or
Try something with a little less duration (219@.050) and less lift like .503/.525 with a 112 lsa. This is good up to 6000rpm and will give you right around 440hp/480tq before the NOS.

man am i glad there are knowedgable people out there lol i mena i know a little but not enough to make me comfertable at trying this build alone lol thanks for all the help guys.