raptere

Hello all,
Ive been thinking lately my car has a lot of stuff put into it trying to do the math im not even sure exactly how many horses i should be putting out. (if any one wants to try to figure that out that would be really cool) I have run my car at the track stock and ran a 14.7 second quarter which i believe would suggest i can launch decently well. My current best time is a high 13, does that seem right all my mods are in the sig, a few more things to add but ill put them in now.

THanks for the ideas ,

-ELi
Raptere

johnnyboy

iTrader: (3)

seems right to me, you don't have a cam or heads or anything really done

raptere

Really?
Stealth ram, with 58mm throttle body, afpr set where it should be, completely free flowing exhaust, slp 1 3/4 shorties coted with dumpes before the cats basically true duals, underdrive pullies, inginion system, drag wheels front and back with drag radials, hmmm i gues thats not so much for actuall power.

I also just installed all new suspension, drag shocks 50/50 backs and 70/30 fronts lakewoods, i also installed a full polyurithane bushing kit, and lakewood lca's and an edlbrock panhard rod.

any other ideas, or suggestions for what i should do to get the times going down? WHat would you all say should be my next mod?

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

So you jut slam a ton of air into the engine with the HSR and 58mm then it's all choked at the heads. You're only as strong as your weakest link- lack of cam and heads are definitely your problem, then a good tune and you'll get some good numbers. 58mm is FAR too big for that engine.

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

Also, your mods seem a bit random and not well planned (no offense! just trying to help!)

Stealth Ram is good to flow more air at high RPMs, but on a stock block it won't really do much for most of your power band.
58mm shouldn't be on there IMO.
AFPR is set to where- someone else can probably say if its at a good setting.
Exhaust- good call, that should really help your times.
Underdrive should give a few HP but not huge gains.
Ignition isn't always needed- possibly not worth more as far as power goes.

Quick_Trans_Am

iTrader: (2)

That's a very nice way of putting it. I agree about the 58MM TB. The engine isn't built to the point where a 58 MM would be required to support the intake.

84z28350

^^^

Im with the above.

Sure theirs some nice pieces on there, worth a good chunk of coin. But they really dont seem too well planned out. (no offense!)

But for the price of that HSR you could have got a set of really kick **** heads that will net you huge gains over the stockers.

You have an awesome induction and exhaust setup but the motor itself is killin ya.


For your next mods you should be looking into a head and cam swap to get the air flowing through the motor, that will wake that motor right up. Since you already have the HSR and free flowing exhaust, you will see some very nice gains too!

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

I would hate to say it, but all that audio stuff adds the weight of another driver, it is just a few numbers clicked off your power to weight ratio. When you hot rod heavy cars, the P/W ratio is a big deal.

Plus a good set of heads and a cam would do a GREAT deal, especially on with a power band set up in the RPM's.

raptere

That was basically my plan to do everything so i could be ready for some pretty nice heads and a decently big cam, i actually already have comp cams 1.6 roller rockers and hardened pushrods, i got them when i was about to do head and cams but money fell short.

Do you all think i have a good set up to prepare for like some either 180 or 195 heads and a decently high lift cam?

If you could give me some head/cam suggestions ones that make good power or work well together, or good with my current set up, i would greatly appriciate it.

Yea it lookes like bad planing, but my intentions were to prep for big head and cam, am i going in the right direction?
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Also how much of this can i do with a stock rotating assemboly/block, will it make any difference with power, and will it hold up to the power these mods, will be making?

O, and yea i know about the audio equiptment ill probubly take out the sub box when i go to the track next, i think i did last time too.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yea, out of your 20 or so mods in sig, what, 3 of them add HP?

Your suspension is good, to lower your ET, but HP helps that, and boosts your MPH.. (duh), anyway, that's definately where you should be going now.

Intake of some kind. Port stock, stealth ram, whatever... Cam, then heads, either port or replace. Nothing huge, 180cc should be great.
Cams are easy, and kinda cheap. You can get an LT1 takeout cam, or something like that.
That's where the money is there

raptere

Yea i have a stealthram already atually just updated the sig.

But i was thinking mabe aft 180's for heads but they are really pricy, unless you have some other suggestions, im pretty sure i want to go aluminum though. Also, how much power would i really be able to get out of the lt1 cam and does it fit in with no probs, what other cams or cam specs should i be looking for, i did a bit of research a while back but i remember them being really confusing, like overlap, and lift and lobe spacing and stuff like that.
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O how bad is it to remove the back seats i hear that saves a lot of wight. Also i hear it is good to take out your front sway bar, saves weight in the front and gives better weight transfer, how bad would it be to take it off and drive it for a daily driver with out that on, is that just a bad idea and unsafe?

PS. Thanks a ton for all the feed back everyone, very helpfull!

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

front sway bar: not a huge weight savings, but unbolting it and letting it hang, helps weight transfer, giving you a better 60'. Driving without it is like driving a 30 year old farm truck, or a boat. It'll handle so bad you won't want to drive it.
One of those things you just unbolt at the track for a run or two.

LT1 cam, LT4 cam... Any of the hot stock cams you can probably get used, somewhat cheap. Otherwise, a roller cam is kinda pricey, but you don't need new lifters, so that kinda helps make up the price difference.

84z28350

AFR's are a very nice head, i think you would be better off with the 195cc's since everything else is more geared towards higher RPM power/flow.

If you have the coin for them they would be a very good choice. They also leave you the option of using them on newer builds since they will support some pretty high numbers.


For the cam you can go with anything from mild to wild depending on how much work your willing to do.

With a smaller cam you can get away with a stock stall torque converter, but with the larger cams you will want a higher stall to get a good launch. Depending how big of a cam you go you may even need to drop the rear end gearing too.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

I undid mine and it does help a TON in getting weight to transfer. And I street drive the car, I just can't take turns or bumps to fast......but the thinks I have done to go fast straight!

raptere

just because it is the significantly cheeper part of the project if i just installed the new cam and rods and rockers , mabe springs, will i notice much difference, i found some stuff for sale 150 or so for a comp cams extreme energy cam with dual roller timing chain, or even can you tell me if it would be a good cam for me to pick up untill i have the money for the heads.

Comp Cams camshaft p/n is 08-302-8. The cam card says the following for the specs.............

Engine chevy Sm Blk 305-350
Grind Number CS 264H-R12
Ex Energy Hyd Roller
Gross Valve Lift .48/.48 (with 1.5 rockers, otherwise it would be .512 with 1.6 rockers)
Duration @ .05 210/220
Lobe Lift .3200/.3200
Lobe Seperation 112

also if i were to just get an lt1 cam temperarily for real cheep would that make much of a difference?

THanks so much for all the help guys,

Eli
Raptere

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

the 264, yea, that should work pretty well. Powerband will be below 5800RPM or so IIRC.
I think you can stick with the stock stall speed with that. Well, wouldn't be ideal, but it'd WORK ok.

raptere

well i was just looking online, and it says that that would work well for good low end torque, but its really designed to be a mild cam and its not part of the xtreme energy line so it dosent use that technology.

After my research i cam up with the comp cams xtreme energy computer controlled XR276HR

HYDRAULIC ROLLER-Needs modified TPI Hyd. Hyd. 1800 to 5800 08-503-8 XR276HR 276 281 224 230 .503 .510 112°
w/injectors, plenum, runners, exhaust and
programmer, 2000+ stall.

Sry kind of slopy coppy and past but it get the info there I plan to up my stall converter eventually too, and this seems to cator to a good rpm range, also i wand a bit of a loby sound dont you want a lower lobe seperation to make that happen will 112 be good?

And im pretty sure i want to go with the afr either 180's or 195's but thoes both have max lift of .550 these both meet that spec with my 1.6 rockers

raptere

another possibility i just remembered for heads is the newer brodix ik 200 heads does any one know anything about thoes, i believe they also offer a 180 version, but they are aluminum and just over a grand for the pair, what do you guys think? also can take up to a .575 lift cam, if that makes much of a difference.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

I think the best bang for your buck is a set of Dart Iron Eagle heads. You can get them with all the hardware and fully dressed for around $700-$800 a set. There was company on Ebay that I buy from all the time that was selling them for that price. And I know there are a few more companies that sell them all done up for cheaper than Jegs or Summit. Shop around and make sure you get what you need and want, better off taking the time to get the right parts, and the best price then dumping a butt load on something you dont want or isn't the right setup.

raptere

i actually want to make sure i get aluminum heads, Also i want to make sure i get the best heads for my set up and if i really need to put the money into it then ill take the time to save up and do that, but price to power ratio is definitly important too.

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

Man just looking at your times, get some good tires and get that 60' down to a 1.8. You'd see mid 13s for sure. Pick up a set of M/T ET streets and never look back.

raptere

well i have bfg drag radials 275's do you think i should be running faster and im just not launching right? What times should i be able to be running with what you have seen?

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

A 2.1 60 foot is decent for street tires. If you can hook a 1.8 (I recommend LCAs and LCA relocation brackets if you don't have them) on a good slick or DR (I personally don't like nittos or bfg drs) - I recommend the MT ET Streets - those ****ers DEAD HOOK! - you would see an instant .4-.5 cut off your ET, putting you around a 13.50. That would be consistant with your trap.

From your mods, you're trapping right where I'd expect you. In order to go faster, you're going to need more power. Luckily, you've already gotten rid of the worst part of the L98 - the TPI. I'd look into gears (3.73s if you drive it often, otherwise go 4.10s), a converter (3000ish stall) and getting the stuff to custom tune it. After all that's done a low 13 second pass isn't out of the question, and if you really work on it I don't see why you couldn't hit a 13.00 pass, but you will need more trap. At least 103.

raptere

as far as the heads go im pretty sure id be best off with the ik200's from brodix, they go for like 999.99 dollars reall cheep for a decent assemballed set of heads that accepts a big cam. a bit of porting or polishing might not be a bad idea.

As far as my current set up goes , you really think i should be able to pull a 13.5 urbanhunter44? I do have lca's and a panhard rod (check sig at top), no relocation brakcets. I guess im just launching badly, do you have any suggestions or tecnique, i could try at the track next time i go to bring down that 60', or even bring up the trap just a bit, ive been dying to break a hundred for years and im sooooo, close!

Thanks a ton guys for all the help,

ELi
Raptere

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

For launching try brake torqueing to get the converter to stall out. I run a 3K stall and rev then engine up to about 1800-2000 and mash it when the light changes.

Practice, practice, practice.....I suck compared to my bud who can pop a bulb at .0XX almost all day long.

raptere

Yea i know about torque braking but other than that it is just practice? I've never known how fast i can push down the pedal with out spinning my tires, is there any tip for that or that is just where the practice comes in.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

practice, and you need to "feel" the car, and try different RPMs to stall it out to, and then learn to play with the pedal, called feathering the pedal, to get the tires to bite and not slip.

best thing to do is get a long dead strip or a big parking lot (NOTE make sure you know who owns it or that the person is ok with it, nothing illegal here) and lay a few patches down to get your tires to hook in like at the track, and just practice launches, thats what i did.....plus some illegal street activities, but practice makes perfect!