speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

Hey. This 388 stroker will be in a firebird that will be daily driven, with a 700R4 trans. The cam is the Lunati Bracket Master 00010LK, which is Advertised Duration 292/292, Lift .480/.480
Its a carb'd motor, and as far as money goes it doesnt have to be dirt cheap but not looking to buy like brand new AFR's or whatever. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated
-Chris

Gumby

Well we need a close ball park number that your willing to spend.

Also what kind of HP or Torque numbers you looking for?

SOme say build for HP and Torque will follow but Torque wins races when your not in a 2000HP machine. I know guys who run faster by a few tenths with stock highways gear, as they got Torque. Wich helps keep things very streetable.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You've got a very plain, ordinary, generic, cheap cam. Not that it's a "bad" one or anything, it's perfectly "OK" as far as just being a cam; it's just not in the least bit "special" or highly desirable or likely to produce results that are at all exceptional in any way.

The CORRECT way to design a motor, is NOT to buy all the super-expensive and important and hard-to-change parts, based on the one SUPER CHEAP part you "already have". Even if it IS "paid for".

Forget about what cam you have, and concentrate first on what you want the motor to do. Select your heads based on flow requirements, compression ratio, RPM range, intended HP output, etc. Then once you've selected heads that match your goal and your budget, choose a cam with properties that match the heads. Maybe it'll be that basic grind there; but then again, maybe not. I'd say, no matter what it is that you're looking to do, there's a 5% chance OR LESS that that's the "perfect" cam for it.

speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I know the whole thing with not basing the motor off the cam, its actually not even my engine, but a friend of mine. He wants a nice engine he can drive every day, stay legal with, and not blow too much on gas, all while being able to still have some fun. I guess I cant speak for him, but I would say we're going for torque here more than high RPM horsepower. I would say though that he would probably be pretty happy even with 350 horsepower going to the rear wheels, but again its not my car so I cant say for sure what it is he wants. I'll have him post in here, I dont think he's ever even used TGO. Thanks though!

izcain

350 hp to the wheels is a pretty stout package when you equate that into flywheel power. Your going to need some good flowing parts to make all that work out for you. What kind of compression does this motor have?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

That cam isn't going to do the job well for him IMHO.
Too much duration, not enough lift. It'll need a fair bit of convertor = less gas mileage, poor low end, etc.

Vortecs and an xe274 would work very well in a 383 motor. It's common as dirt, but that's not exactly a bad thing.

5678TA

gas mileage will not be the greatest.. if you want torque, a good set of camelbacks with a nice port and polish will do just fine.. i have that on mine before it went boom.. 383, 10.7:1, P&P'd camel backs, comp cams 294s cam (.525" int/exh lift, 294 adv. duration, 250 @ .050", .022" lash), edelbrock eps intake, 650 AVS carb got me 316rwhp and 359lb/ft.. swapped to an 800 EPS carb and RPM Air Gap and got somewhere around 350-365 rwhp.. went 12.7 @109 missing 4th, spinning off the line on slicks.. loads of torque..

Gumby

If your budget minded you just get the cheap RV cam n lifter set from any auto parts store. Run a single plain torquer manifold and get a MSD box on the thing so you got enough juice to spark off just about any ammount of fuel which will help the mileage. Also a true dual spark system.

might wanna stick with a 650 carb to help mileage, it will give ya all the gas ya need for the low end grunt stuff.