mouthforcombat

My temp gauge needle is all the way up, which basically means I need a new sensor if there is even one in there. The car started the first time this past week in two years. The manual said the temp sending unit should be in the front of the left head... Don't see it. Help please!

kdxrider9262

I have the EXACT same problem as you......I believe the sensor is right underneath the TB heater hose and next to the alternator doesn't look too hard if this is the right sensor.....lemme know how much one costs

SpitotRs305

the temp sending unit is in the driverside head between 1&3 spark plugs it will have a single Green wire attached i think it costs around $10-12 at any autozone type place

kdxrider9262

awesome.......thanks for the help......ill take the volt meter / test light to it tomorrow

z 28 jari

iTrader: (1)

Check that temp gauge wire isn't grounded.

mouthforcombat

Well I located mine. The problem is that my wire is attached and melted to it, I think the wiring adapter (whatever connects to the sending unit) is bad???

mouthforcombat

found it but gauge is still screwed

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Gauge all the way up (hot) = low sensor resistance
Gauge all the way down (cold) = high sensor resistance

You should be able to unplug the wire, and the gauge should go to the bottom; then touch the wire to the block, and the gauge should go to the top.

Disconnecting the wire should make the gauge go to the bottom, if the wiring & gauge are good. If you disconnect the wire and the gauge still read full hot, then either the wire is shorted to ground somewhere, or the gauge itself is bad.

kdxrider9262

well I found mine and it is unplugged and reading welll beyond hotttt.........

kdxrider9262

alright.......so instead of ripping out my dash and buying the correct guage......I thought this might be easier.......anyone know the easiest way to hook this up?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Uhh, why not just fix the wiring and use your stock gauge? They don't go bad very often.
That gauge looks like it's got the sending unit attached, so you'd just remove your stock temp sender, and screw in that fitting, then run the wiring to wherever and read the gauge.
I prefer to keep stock gauges, aftermarket gauges look gaudy unless you've got at least 400HP...

kdxrider9262

well....I'm pretty sure my stock gauge is broken and not the wiring you can see for yourself with this picture (click it to enlarge) it stays in that position whether its unplugged or grounded.....id gladly buy a working stock gauge if i can find one

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You should be able to fix it in about 10 minutes. Less than 10% the trouble of unnecessarily hacking that aftermarket thing into your car.

Take the bezel off, about 8-10 Torx screws; take the cluster out, 2 nuts IIRC 10mm down in the bottom corners, among the light bulb cavities; take the clear cover off, about 5-6 ¼" or 7mm screws, I forget exactly; CAREFULLY unstick the pointer from the stop, without touching the scale.

mouthforcombat

I did the exact same thing, lol. I bought an aftermarket gauge and a pillar mount. I just got the temp sending unit through the firewall and now I'm trying to figure out how to ground and wire the gauge... I'm not much of a wiring pro.

mouthforcombat

Apparently that wiring was just for the light that nobody needs. The gauge works great and I'm good to go. Hopefully you have the same luck.

kdxrider9262

well imma give sofakings method a try tomorrow! thanks alot man you've answered many of my questions it just seems that the gauge would be inaccurate after being "stuck" up there for so long but a rough estimate is better than what im gettin right now lmao!

kdxrider9262

ok well I tried getting the front cover off and this stupid thing on my steering column is preventing me from getting it off you can kind of see it from my picture in my other post......is that something that is stock with the car?

kdxrider9262

bump

coolram62

iTrader: (2)

For the temp gauge(same goes for volt,fuel and tach/oil pressure)you can take it out without removing the cluster from the dash.Remove the black bezel(secured by torx screws).The steering column shouldn't prevent you from removing it.Once all the screws are out gently pull it to you and lift it up toward the dashpad.The clear lens(secured by 4 7mm-I think-screws)is next as Sofakingdom suggested.But the gauge itself can be removed but removing the (2) 7mm retaining screws,

EDIT:In looking at your picture are you speaking of what appears to be the dust shield on the left side of the steering column?That is supposed to be behind the cover whe it's in place.

camaro91boy

help, a few days ago my lower radiator hose got a hole in it while i was driving and leaked out all of the antifreeze. when i looked under the car there was a wire with what looked to be the end of a knock sensor melted to it hanging down by the starter. i bought a new knock sensor and went to put it in but found that it was still intact. the real sensor that melted off was a sensor above it under the manifolds. i don't know what sensor it is. but worse since that day it has made a god owfal rattling sound, and the car runs like crap. would this sensor had caused it. i don't want to drive my car the way it sounds. i recently replaced

radiator
upper and lower hoses
water pump
and i had to hot wire both of my fans.

Please help soon

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's not a sensor; it's the fan switch. Which of course would explain why your fans don't work. See my signature for helpful troubleshooting advice.

Replace it, and un-hack your fan wiring.

It's better to post a new thread when you have a COMPLETELY different off-topic question like this, rather than hijack somebody else's.

kdxrider9262

well Im not sure how to get that stupid thing off to me it looks like some security thing so people cant rip open the steering column...

Shred

my temp gauge looks just like kdxrider9262, and it must have grounded somewhere because i resest the needle but it jumped to hot again after a while. if i was to check the circuit with a light or voltmeter where wound i put the clips and what would I be looking for in terms of voltage reading?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Remove your gauge cluster. There should be a "plug" behind it. With your haynes you might be able to figure out which one is for the temp guage, if not maybe someone can look it up for you. Remove the wire from the temp sensor and measure resistance from that plug in your dash to your temp sensor wire.

Check continuity, if none, check between the dash plug and a ground point, if you get continuity then start looking for where that wire shorted out. HINT: probably in the engine bay....

If nothing is to be found, check resistance between the electrical connector on the temp sensor, and ground. I'm not sure what the number is (there's a table floating around this board somewhere, probably in the electrical forum), that shows what the resistance should be, based on temp. If the car has been sitting all night, it should have the resistance based on ambient temperature, if the resistance is zero, or close to, then the sensor itself might be bad.