xFeveredx

alright, so i have a 1989 trans am
305 TPI
Auto trans

got this car back from the mechanic, took it home, drove it fine for a short while
the next day took it to the wash, didnt want to start, so i unplugged an injector, started the car fine, plugged the injector inand drove home fine, went to start the car again 20 mins later, and the starter was shot. Then problem started after i replaced the starter. Car will not idle, or start without being given gas, must hold gas to idle, if given too much gas the car will try to die.

recent work has been done to the car
new MAF
new plugs
oil change
new wires/cap/rotor
fuel filter
injectors cleaned through pb blaster
fuel lines cleaned
fuel pump tested (fine)
short underneath dash fixed


edit*
just went and unhooked MAF, tried to start, no change
Unhooked IAC, no change
reset ECM (disconnect batt) no change
also, will rev fine for a short time, but if given too much gas will die

xFeveredx

No help anyone? i really need this car going, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Mad_IROC-Z

First, do you have an alarm system? If so and it has ANYTHING to do with ignition or running get rid of it.

Next,
Tested fuel pump. Did you do it properly? How did you do it? I hope not with a pin in the shrader and you say fuel squirt. Or did you hear it run? Is the pressure good?

And people, don't disconnect the battery before you look for any code(s). And this goes for others with OBDII as well, Clearing Codes is NOT a fix!
So many times I hear, "My car is not running right and the service engine light was on so my buddy hooked up his thing and cleared it for me but it still not running right". Now ya gotta try and drive it until that light comes back on.
Not saying you had a light on but I would have checked it first.

xFeveredx

no alarm system, the mechanic i had it at tested the pump. and i dont have a reader for codes, and i had the battery unhooked for when i did my starter anyways :S

jak

Test battery i have seen a dead cell cause this..Also check alt output...Check power connections on starter as well..

xFeveredx

***update***

so me and my mechanic friend went and took a look at it, unhook any injector and it will start, idle, rev and run fine as long as injector is unhooked, as soon as you hook it back up it will die, or run until you try to rev it.
he said it sounds like a computer problem
what i dont know is if this is OBDI, OBDII or pre OBD
any ideas?

Mad_IROC-Z

OBDI. OBDII would be 96 (OBD1.5 95)
I have not looked into this yet so I am not sure. I'll try and check it out soon if I get a chance.
It is possible that one bad injector can kill the whole side. The 2.8/3.1 V6 Camaros are like this. They run in series so when one injector is bad the circuit is disrupted.

xFeveredx

thats kinda what i was thinking, because when i originally got the car, the problem it had was a screwed fuel filter, but the mechanic checked the injectors and everything and said they were fine. the computer IS a remanufactured one that my uncle said the dealership he bought it from put in, and it never was mounted right, its kinda hanging there, so im kinda thinking its porbably that :/

Mad_IROC-Z

The computer controls all eight injectors though. Unplugging one injector with a bad ECM should not make a difference.
If you have a noid light or a test light you can check. A noid light for fuel injection lights faster but a normal incandesant test light will work.

Unplug an injector and check which wire has power with the key on. It should be black (the ground wire pulses to work the injectors).
Now hook the test light to the + of the battery and, DO NOT TOUCH THAT POWER WIRE. Touch the ground side (should be black with a pink or green stripe) and have someone crank the motor. You should see the light flashing. Since its so fast it may not flash super bright though. If they are flashing then the computer is sending its ground signal. Try all the injectors or at least the ones on the side you unplugged.
And maybe your mechanic buddy has a noid light like most mechanics should.

xFeveredx

well he used to be a mechanic, haha. He saying hes pretty sure becuase its not misfiring without the injector plugged in, its runnin like a champ! and also its ANY injector you unplug, either side

Mad_IROC-Z

You could try the wigle and twist test. Yes, TSB's will tell you to wiggle and thump on the ECM and also lightly twist it as a test.

xFeveredx

yeah ill give that a try, as to the battery and alternator jak, it has a new battery, and the alternator was replaced before i got the car

xFeveredx

thanks for your help guys, i really do appreciate it, i really need to get this car going, or else i have to go back to my 88 mazda 323 :S which was an awesome car! but i have a better one now haha

xFeveredx

Well a little bit of a late update, but i put a new ECM in (only cost me $86 too, cheap parts! lol) thats what we thought the problem was, started it after i hooked it up with all 8 injectors connected, idled and ran fine but as soon as it warmed up it died, and gave me the same problems was having before :/