i-rocz/28

Hey guys, I have recently swapped the motor in my car for a 350 and a carb. I love it. The engine is a rebuilt 350 from a 1990 silverado with stock heads. How big of a cam can you fit with the stock heads? I have a cam out of one of our race engines and it's a solid lift cam with gross lift at about 530 intake and 560 exhasut with a 290 duration. Thanks. I'm really hoping that the stock springs and stuff will work.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

The stock springs definitely won't work. I'd say everything stock .475-.480 is all the lift they'll take.

zraffz

Solid lift cam won't work with any stock springs unless its one of the solid 302 chevys.

i-rocz/28

Thanks!! That's helpful! I'm wanting something a little big than what's in it. It has a mild cam right now at 440. I'm not searching for power. Just sound. I guess I'll shop for some heads.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

Idk what your wanting to do with your car, but I sure wouldn't run a solid lift cam on the street. Hydraulic roller is the only thing I would consider.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Take the mufflers off and pull the choke out

You can always buy a Thumper cam that lets you pretend you have a hot engine http://www.compcams.com/Thumpr/index.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...772-post3.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...848-post5.html

zraffz

What makes you say that? I've been debating doing a small solid roller on my dart 355 and hunting for a 5 speed 3rd gen to put it in to go back and forth to work in the summer.

i-rocz/28

I'm still gonna use the car as a daily driver.

i-rocz/28

Plus I'll have an 850 carb on it. I'm running one right now. With no troubles.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like a match made in heaven .
A truck motor with a low lift cam and a 850 carb
You are aware a 350 at 7000 rpm can only pump 700 CFM at 100% VE;
most stock engines are nearer 85% VE which is only 600 CFM
If your current truck engine makes it to 5500 it is only pumping 470 CFM

i-rocz/28

It runs great with it! It's not the best fuel mileage but its fun when you hammer down! Hasn't flooded or run rich yet. Kinda surprised.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

Let me rephrase what I said about the solid lift cam zraffz. I wouldn't run a flat tappet solid lift cam on the street. Solid roller is a different deal as you know, but he didn't specify which kind of solid lift cam he was planning on using.

zraffz

Oh okay, I'd agree now since I misinterpreted what you meant. I just figured 1990 block, more than likely a roller setup and only a fool or nickle pincher wouldn't use that to their benefit. (I am aware all solid roller cams from CC are retrofit though).

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

No prob. I can see where that could have Ben misunderstood. He never said what kind of cam, only that is was out of a "race engine".

DeltaElite121

Huh?? If anything, it's the other way around... SFT's are easy to maintain on the street. They're not nearly as intensive as a solid roller is; particularly on the lifters themselves. Both can be ran on the street just fine if things are adjusted correctly and checked on regular intervals.

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

I know any solid cam can be ran on the street, its the checking at regular intervals that turns into a pita, but that just my

zraffz

I was always under the impression SFT lifters wore out at a much higher rate than anything else. Nobody wants to change stuff like that every year on a street car.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Wrong impression...

Ever come across the old Xler 225 "slant 6"? or the old Chevy "sufferin 6" in either the 194 or 235 version? those things would all go stupid high mileage for their day (over 200k if properly maintained), and all had solid lifters. Like every motor once was.

I used to run NOTHING BUT solid cams on the street. Put a solid in the 400 I put in my 83 the first time I built it in fact; which went about 80k before the crank broke. The cam & lifters were still PERFECT.

There's nothing wrong with solids on the street, IFF they're properly maintained. They need to be adjusted about every oil change (7000 miles or whatever). But since that only takes a matter of minutes when done the right way, it's not a big deal at all.