mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE below, removed solenoid , installed OE style reman, install solenoid, DONE!

On my '89 IROC 305/AT, I read the thread saying to move starter forward and up, to drop it's nose down and out, in front of the exhaust downpipe. . I F'ED with it for an hour! I couldn't get it to rotate the suggested 180* and I couldn't get the brush end, to go UP towards the engine block to allow the nose to drop out. It kept hitting the unibody, not allowing clearance. SO, planning to install the rebuilt, 1996 Impala LT1 starter, I have on hand...........I disassembled the OE starter and removed it in pieces. (Perhaps I should have jacked up the engine an inch, or so)?

Looking at the LT1 starter, I see it has 11 teeth on the drive, not 9 like my OE starter. Will this work? Doesn't seem like it. If so, I will need to get shorter starter bolts.

I would rather buy a reman starter that just bolts in, without trouble. Is there an OE physically smaller starter, that will go in easy and work properly? With the 305 and VATS ? Thanks.

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Don't know if there's a OE replacement that's smaller, they all seemed to weigh a ton. It's odd you couldn't get the original starter out, I used the feedback in your original post to replace mine in less than an hour. Here's what I was told when I was looking for a replacement...

Good luck.

RJ IROC

I'm using a Carquest 17579S starter in my 383 (starter came from advance auto). Stock, I think it fits an LT1 Camaro or Corvette. Works great. It weighs about half as much, and is a gear reduction starter. It's also way less prone to heat soak issues.

I've had good experiences with parts store starters. I try to stay as close to OEM as possible for this kind of thing. Lifetime warranty on these starters is also a nice thing to have if you ever need it.

Do yourself a favor and get some stainless starter bolts. ARP makes a good kit for this that's around 10 bucks. Totally worth it, considering the knurls on your stock bolts are probably going to be knackered. The knurls are REQUIRED to get good alignment with the flywheel/flexplate.

Clean the starter mounting pad on the block after you removed the old starter. Everything helps to make sure the starter is sufficiently grounded.

When I removed the primitive stock POS starter, I had to remove the solenoid coil to snake it through the opening. Might help you if you're running into clearance issues getting the old one out.

Edit: Looks like you got the old one out OK. Disregard my last line there.

Tremo

$600 starter??

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

According to the photos, That Carquest 17579S has an 11 tooth drive gear. The OE starter I removed has a 9 tooth and the LT1 starter, I intended to use has an 11. Other than the gear differences, the LT1 starter looks like it will work.

ANYONE KNOW IF A 1996 LT1 starter will work on a 305 V8? I am NOT referring to the gear reduction LT1 starter, the non gear reduction starter. Id like to use the Compact LT1 starter I have before buying a a gear reduction unit, or wrestling an OE starter, HOPING I can get it in.

Thanks all so far.

RJ IROC

I'm pretty sure all LT1 starters are a gear reduction type. They use a planetary gearset, which is why it's difficult to tell from the outside. I searched for a 96 impala ss starter and it was a gear reduction type. Same with the vette and maro. All LT1 vehicles at the time with manuals and autos.

To answer your question, I don't know if it will work for sure....but it should.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

aCTUALLY, NOT ALL lt1'S USE GEAR REDUCTION STARTERS. I owned 3 GM B Bodies (2 96 Impala SS's and a 95 Roadmaster) and they were all straight shaft starters. There seems to be a lot of confusion(on car forums) about this.

The LT1 starter I'd like to use is not gear reduction. Thank you.

Any tips about wrestling a reman, OE (fat boy) starter back up into the installation position? I am not looking forward to that. The exhaust manifold to header pipe studs are pretty rusty. I have PB Blaster rust solvent ed them, but don't want to have to loosen them.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

I wrestled about an hour with the reman, OE size starter. No luck! Could not get it up towards the side of the engine block. It hits the inner edge of the lower control and and the uni-body kind-of behind the battery tray.

The FSM only says remove wires and mounting bolts! I might losen the 4 nuts holding the exhaust pipes to the manifolds.
O'Riely AP is getting in a gear reduction, mini starter, for me to consider. $140 IIRC.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

Problem SOLVED.

I was told by the O'Rieley Starter re-manufacturer, the 1996 LT1 starter I was trying to use, IS a gear reduction type, despite it's straight shaft. He was not sure if it would work. I bolted it on, using the OE bolts(with 3 washers under each head). It rocked in place, a little, so I removed it.

I removed the solenoid from the reman OE style starter, and IT WENT RIGHT IN! No clearance issues. (Thanks RJ IROC).

Thanks all!