bensbaby

I'm just done rebuilding the engine I'm my car myself
I had to take my t56 off and noe it is back on
but I had to Jack my car up 25" in order to get the Jack on with the t56
so it could fit under
it's currenly 4 cement blocks and the axel stands
Are 2 on front and the rear is 8 Jack all the way up
I only gave a 2.5 ton low profile Jack the goes up 15"
I used all kinds of 1/2" drive socket bars 2 together and sockets it barly worked for now
when I use the stuff it once tilted and almost crashed on the garage floor
so I am now thinking about getting 2 20 ton bottle jacks because now I'm terrified it is gonna fall
I need help the bottle jacks only go up 19" total so ei still have to use a socket to make it 25"
I just thought of a few years ago I jacked my car up on the rear axle pumpkin and it raised both back tires even ly that I could run it in gear and have the rear tires spin evenly
I don't know what to do
pls help me

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I don't know what the heck you just said.

bensbaby

I asked you a serious question
if you jack up the rear axle on the car how high will it get the floor up 25inches
I must be way to smart for you all

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Ben, in all honesty, your messages here usually aren't all that easy to understand, hence my "English to English translator" comment in one of your other threads.

Now, as to your question, I know I may take some flak for this, as with everything else (What oil to use, Chevy VS Frod, Ginger VS Mary Ann) there are two fairly entrenched opinions regarding it;

I am firmly in the camp of NEVER jacking a car up from the "pumpkin"

I'm old enough to remember the big land yachts of the 60s and 70s, and I saw a few rear ends bent from someone doing exactly what you want to do. Yeah I know, our little 3 thousand pound cars are WAY less likely to get a bent rear axle VS a 5 or 6 thousand pound behemoth, but I've never saw the benefit of risking it outweigh the reward of the easy lift.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

If you feel unsafe and/or the car is up in the air and feels wobbly then STOP!!! And get somebody in the garage with you that knows what they're doing.

bensbaby

I just know with the normal car pump jack with a 12invh bar it gets wobbley when I try to lift it up
I think it's because it's going inwards pulling the car as it goes from bottom to top the Jack angle changes
1 or 2 and it's enough that it pops off .
so I just bought 2 new 12 ton bottle jacks that are supposed to be total lifting length of 18.25"
my old big jack is 15
but that's the biggest ones I can get
bottle jacks are straight up
zero angle
I think it's gonna work way better
I have been working on bikes at 14 and ever since I cars the gta
I know what I'm doing
I was just a dumb ***
I'm gonna put 1 bottle jack pass and on driver rear
I'm worried it may pull of the front
I even have 4 old steel rims under the front and rear tires

bensbaby

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Bottle jacks are the wrong tool. Bottle jacks have small bases and can tip over really easy. Stuff will slip around on the teeny little pad too, or tear a hole through whatever you're lifting on because contact stress will be so high.

Jack stands have wide bases for the purpose of stability. I use 6 ton jack stands. Bigger the better.

What I do is remove the shifter and slide the transmission under the car on a piece of cardboard. It slides easier and won't scratch it to heck. You'll have a lot more room once it's under the tunnel. Get it up on a jack and very very carefully raise it up into place. Two people with hands on the transmission is best. Auto trans it a lot easier since it can be balanced. Manual trans doesn't want to balance and you have to get it up in the tunnel before it's safe to take a quick rest.

Taking the bellhousing off the trans will make it a piece of cake sliding under car. You can mount the flywheel housing to engine, and then mount the trans to flywheel housing. That's what a lot of people do because it's so much easier to get to the bolts that way.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

You can get a thirdgen plenty high enough. I've used the pumpkin to get it up in the air before, but only in so far as a stepping stone to get stands underneath either the axle on each corner, on the control arms if I needed to remove the axle. You can get the car pretty high from either end. Just make sure the car is supported correctly and you'll be fine. NEVER USE THE PUMPKIN as the final jack point. Intermediate is fine to get stands under other parts of the car, but NEVER by itself. Its far to easy for the car to slip off the pad.

bensbaby

How do you make the front not roll around when your jacking the pumpkin
mines on a cement block and a jack stand on 2 clicks up
should I get a the get the front on the steel wheels first or should I get the pumpkin fisrt
every time I try to adjust it with my normal jacks it freaks me out
if I had the front wheels down on ground then I could get a bar and jam the brake pedal on hard
I already got the ebrake on today
ty

bensbaby

what Jack did you use
and how high did it go
I have 2 wheel chocks they can fit or maybe I could put a few screws into the ground to hold it from sliding
I will take a pic tomorrow
I'm gonna try the bottle jack idea first
if it doesn't work then I'm gonna try the pumpkin but the cars *** is 2 feet out of the garage
I I don't think I have 2 feet up
I'll let you know tomm

89fast5oh

You have been on this site for 13 years...

If you don't know how to jack up the rear on the diff and chock the front tires, then you should spend some more time reading. Sorry.

bensbaby

I told you my cars on stands cement block all 4 and the rear 7 clicks out and front are 2
tomm I may take the front stand out and put old steel rims with tires for better grip
Or do you think I should put the front tires down son the garage floor and wheel chock2the front
I just don't want the rear to fall off when I'm trying that

Scott's 83' Z

Ben,
What you are attempting to explain to everyone YOU understand. You know what size jack stands you have, you know the size of the transmission jack you are trying to get under the car. We DO NOT. For example, 7 “clicks” isn’t a height measurement. My 1 ton stands fully extended don’t even reach the collapsed height of my 3 ton stands. You give no measurable reference. Therefore, “7 clicks” means jack squat.Your lack of proof reading and your assumption that just because what you write you understand doesn’t mean other people will “understand” your posts too.

Not trying to be a douche, get the right equipment. Buy, rent, borrow bigger jack stands and higher lift floor jack and get the stands under the rear subframe. Get some preformed wheel chocks or make them for the front tires. I used my 3 ton stands (4 of them) to get my car up and I was able to get the T5 out of my car on my own. I know a t56 is about 25 lbs heavier so it might be easier to get another set of hands to help get it bolted in. Two of you might even make the transmission jack unnecessary.

Using rims and bottle jacks is a totally bad idea. Update your will and put on your kamikaze headband if you are set on using that to lift your car. That is a recipe for death by falling car......just saying’.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

If I'm going to be pushing the car hard enough on jack stands, I put a rim under the car near me. usually on both sides. The end goal being that if somehow the car falls off the stands, the rim will keep it from coming down all the way on me since it will fall on the rim. Concrete blocks would work too. Basically anything to keep the car from somehow falling all the way to the ground. I have unfortunately had to work on the car by myself at times, and you have to take precautions. Having a 3400lb car fall of a jack stand on you will kill you easily, and can also easily maim you.

I am more comfortable working on a car that's only jacked up from one side, vs one that sits all 4 on jack stands. At that point, the jack stands make me feel like the base is just not stable enough. Especially where the stands meet the car. Too easy to slip if they aren't on something they can cup to keep from slipping.

Plus, if the car is high enough on 4 jack stands, then its much easier for a person to apply enough leverage to move the car laterally, or longitudinally and have it pivot right off the stands. And when you are under the car, tugging on the transmission or some other stuck thing, its easy enough to pull it in a way that can make it slide off a stand, or cause the stands to tip over.

Suffice it to say, the pumpkin is NOT good enough to support the car with anyone under neath it. Far to easy to slid off and crush you.

3rdgenzroc

Jesus, NEVER get under without some properly placed jack stands. Don't use concrete blocks (especially the cinder type with square holes), they crack and break rather easily. totally unsafe. DO NOT use bottle jacks! Get a proper floor/shop jack made explicitly for this task, (it has a large cradle that has way more surface area to keep the car balanced). And finally, YES, get wheel chocks, they are MADE to keep your vehicle from moving, and yes your vehicle will go forward once your get enough weight in the air to drive it forward. Once you get the right tools for the task, then it will become so much easier for you. Jack the end up that you need to work on (front or back) from a sturdy jacking point (k member or pumpkin - and don't get it right on the lip of the pumpkin). Set your stands on the frame (refer to your diagram for the points on the frame to set them, or your A-arms in the front). Let the jack down onto the stands and make sure they are stable and set good. Then reset the jack to the height the car is at on the stands (not lifting it) for added stability all while the vehicles wheels are chocked. Make sure you have stands though, jacks can and will loose compression or fail. If you want added protection while under there, search how to make a cradle out of solid wood, done right, this will support a falling thirdgen's weight... not block, or a tire, or the broken microwave in the corner of the garage.

ironwill

I fear this will not end well for OP.

ploegi

I don't use cinder blocks to support cars, for the simple reason that it is unsafe. Stress a cinder block, and all it takes is a light tap, and it blows itself apart, and drops whatever load on you. Not a fun experience. (even if you live thru it.)

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

“Plus, if the car is high enough on 4 jack stands, then its much easier for a person to apply enough leverage to move the car laterally, or longitudinally and have it pivot right off the stands“

That is not true. A car resting on 4 properly placed jack stands is just as stable as it is on 4 wheels. Maybe a little more because there is no risk of rolling.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

"4 properly placed jack stands" , Sure, I'm OK with that.... Problem is that it don't sound as if the original poster has quite mastered the "properly placed" part of the equation yet.

Never forget, Darwin ain't a very particular fellow, he'll take anyone that's slightly lagging on the ol learning curve, especially when it comes to getting under improperly secured cars......

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Wouldn't be so sure of that. I purposely pushed my G20 van off two properly positioned 6-ton jack stands with roughly a 1 ft square base that were on the lowest setting (no clicks) just to prove a point to my brother. It was surprisingly easy to push it off the stands.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Think of Jackstands like a wheel. The contact patch of a wheel is very similar to the contact patch of a standard Jackstand. When the car is on wheels, and in neutral is easy for a single person to push the car forward or backward because the wheels easily rotate forward or backward. Jackstands allow the same thing, except in any direction, and they have the added danger that as it tips over, the center of gravity is no longer centered over the base, so once past a certain point it will simply continue to fall.

I've seen it happen. Thankfully the car in question had its wheels on, and those wheels had the parking brake on, so when the wheels hit the ground, the car didn't roll. And we are lucky in that we didn't incur any damage to the floors. I'd say we were lucky that nobody was under the car, however, I have a VERY strict rule. NOBODY is under the car when we are doing anything that MIGHT move it. We find a different way to do it.

Jackstands have two pivot points, the base, and where the stand connects to the body. The higher that is, the less effort is needed to push it past the point of no return.

bensbaby

I did get my car down today
well to my steel rims and tires under all 4 tires on the car
I had to use 4 12 ton bottle jacks with a bentec engineered thing
and I got 2 sets of new extra jack stands
I got 4 42mm sockets from Napa cost 150
and 4 new 36mm axle nut sockets
I welded the 42mm nut to the 36mm axle nut sockets and screwed in the bottle jack into the floor and used a cut off wheel took out the metal thing out of the stand and cut them down to fit
and today it took me 4 hours
and I got it down on the rims
removed the bottle jacks and took the cement blocks out
it cost me 400bucks cdn
but now Its up in ai4 6inches
now I can just use the normal jack when I'm done
I still have to get the exhaust on under there so

and I did crank my parking brake up full

I'm smiling ear to ear
that my invention worked flawlessly
I'm so happy

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

With this being the only part of your post I understood, If your happy, I'm happy ......

2knight

iTrader: (1)

You spent 400 bucks and ruined good sockets?? All you needed to do is buy a good floor jack at harbor freight for less than half that much lol.

bensbaby

I live in Ontario Canada
no harbour freight
cdn stuff costs way more
60 cdn a bottle jack x4 plus 13% tax
and 4 sets of Jack stands and 8 sockets
Do you want to see pics of the bottle jacks I engineered myself

89fast5oh

You could have got a good/cheap jack on sale at Canadian Tire, or went to Princess Auto in Kanata.

We don't want to see your engineered bottle jacks.