SLP Cold Air KIT (What they don't tell you)
#1
SLP Cold Air KIT (What they don't tell you)
I just started the installation of my cold air kit from SLP. I got it from Thunderracing.com Thunderracing did a good job with my order. However I would like to comment on the things that the installation manual doesn't go over. SLP neglected to mention a few very important things.
First off they don't tell you how many relays you have to relocate to make room for the airbox. Secondly the wiring for the MAF is to short. (Not that hard to fix.)
Also the air box doesn't fit as well as I would like.
Next we have the relocation of the Charcol canister. This isn't that hard but they don't provide quite all the hoses needed to do it. Although they do give you the main one.
Anyone have pics of this kit installed? I'd like to see your solutions to these issues.
First off they don't tell you how many relays you have to relocate to make room for the airbox. Secondly the wiring for the MAF is to short. (Not that hard to fix.)
Also the air box doesn't fit as well as I would like.
Next we have the relocation of the Charcol canister. This isn't that hard but they don't provide quite all the hoses needed to do it. Although they do give you the main one.
Anyone have pics of this kit installed? I'd like to see your solutions to these issues.
#3
It came with an extension for the charcol canister relay. Which isn't needed in my car. I can mount that no problem without the extra wires. At least in my case because the relay doesn't need to sit on the charcol canister.
Anyone have pics of the whole setup installed?
Anyone have pics of the whole setup installed?
#4
Well I retract my statement about the box not fitting and not needing the electrical connectors.
I had what alchoholics refer to as a moment of clarity working on my car today. The kit became simplicity itself.
However in light of my new greater understanding for the SLP Cold Air Kit I must say the kit is great. The directions suck a$$.
I had what alchoholics refer to as a moment of clarity working on my car today. The kit became simplicity itself.
However in light of my new greater understanding for the SLP Cold Air Kit I must say the kit is great. The directions suck a$$.
#6
Yeah the directions tell you to drill a 1/4 hole in the fender bracket to mount the air box on. They have a nice little bolt at the bottom that fits in one of the holes that already was there. Then when you drill these holes for the top of the box, none of the supplied screws will fit. So I went out and got some bolts to take care of that problem. But now I am going to have to enlarge the holes in the boxes flange to make it work. It's not a big deal it just is an example of how retarded the instructions are.
Yeah I feel like a retard but I can take comfort in the fact that the directions are just confusing.
Yeah I feel like a retard but I can take comfort in the fact that the directions are just confusing.
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#8
How did you handle the battery being in the back? Where did you put it? I really would like to know because I can not seem to make room in my engine bay for the canister. I've got it so everything works. I can squeeze them both in except for the fact that my battery cables are too short. The other problem is I would have to remove the canister everytime I need to remove the battery.
BTW I did a test startup on it to make sure the ECU didn't throw any codes. It worked well. I liked the difference in how my car sounds.
BTW I did a test startup on it to make sure the ECU didn't throw any codes. It worked well. I liked the difference in how my car sounds.
#9
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
eh, just get rid of the charcoal canister. And the rest of your emissions BS while you're in there. Move the battery to the driver's side like on a T/A and you'll be good to go.
#10
I do have a TA. I would like to get rid of all that crap but Dallas is pretty strict on that. Now the canister I can use on a temporary basis if need be for inspection. So right now all I want to delete is the canister.
But how would I go about routing all my vacum hoses to delete it? I can't stand the thing. I think it's a crock. It's the least usefull component under the hood.
Anyone who has relocated the battery to the back of the car, please post pics. I would love to check that out. That would solve two problems. One is the location of the canister. The second is the placement of my MSD box.
A question for anybody that has put their batteries in the back. How did you route your battery cables. What guage did you use? I would image that you would have had to make those cables yourself. Especially since they would need to be much longer than stock.
Thanks.
But how would I go about routing all my vacum hoses to delete it? I can't stand the thing. I think it's a crock. It's the least usefull component under the hood.
Anyone who has relocated the battery to the back of the car, please post pics. I would love to check that out. That would solve two problems. One is the location of the canister. The second is the placement of my MSD box.
A question for anybody that has put their batteries in the back. How did you route your battery cables. What guage did you use? I would image that you would have had to make those cables yourself. Especially since they would need to be much longer than stock.
Thanks.
#12
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
To take out the canister just rip it out and yank the vaccum lines. Cap off the vaccum fittings on the intake throttle body and plenum so you don't have a vacuum leak.
Buy the relocation kit from Jegs or Summit. They come with 15ft. of cable, battery terminals and everything else you need.
Buy the relocation kit from Jegs or Summit. They come with 15ft. of cable, battery terminals and everything else you need.
#14
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Originally posted by 87WS6
Thanks. I'll see about one of those relocation kits. With my MSD box and the cold air kit, cruise control servo, and AC there is no room under my hood for anything.
I know the canister stores fuel vapor. Is there any problem capping that line?
Thanks. I'll see about one of those relocation kits. With my MSD box and the cold air kit, cruise control servo, and AC there is no room under my hood for anything.
I know the canister stores fuel vapor. Is there any problem capping that line?
#16
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Auburn Pro / 3.42
Sorry I havnt checked in a while
This is just a boat battery box with screws going threw the bottem and felt in the bottem so the heads of the screws dont eat into the bottem of the battery. I also put a small block of wood to keep the battery from sliding around in the box.
This is just a boat battery box with screws going threw the bottem and felt in the bottem so the heads of the screws dont eat into the bottem of the battery. I also put a small block of wood to keep the battery from sliding around in the box.
#18
Actually I have noticed an increase. Mostly in throttle response. So far with the 305 TPI I have noticed that the best mods seem to be the ones that allow it to breathe more.
I haven't gotten it on the highway yet, but this weekend I am going to a friends house with the car to do some work on it. I will let you know if I notice anything on the mid-top ranges.
It also made a difference in how my car sounded.
I have also learned that 1988-1992 cars have the same ducts as the SLP Cold Air Kit does. (SLP apparently provided them)
So all one needs to do on a 1988 car is change the air box which you can order by itself.
So far it seems to me to be one of if not the best CAI out. The air box design doesn't allow the intake to pick up any hot air from the engine compartment. It uses a cutout in the fenderwell to pull from. So everything comes from underneath the car into the fenderwell into your intake. It's a pretty good design.
I am most pleased. It's just the instructions that suck.
I haven't gotten it on the highway yet, but this weekend I am going to a friends house with the car to do some work on it. I will let you know if I notice anything on the mid-top ranges.
It also made a difference in how my car sounded.
I have also learned that 1988-1992 cars have the same ducts as the SLP Cold Air Kit does. (SLP apparently provided them)
So all one needs to do on a 1988 car is change the air box which you can order by itself.
So far it seems to me to be one of if not the best CAI out. The air box design doesn't allow the intake to pick up any hot air from the engine compartment. It uses a cutout in the fenderwell to pull from. So everything comes from underneath the car into the fenderwell into your intake. It's a pretty good design.
I am most pleased. It's just the instructions that suck.
#19
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Car: 2004 BMW 330Cic
Engine: 3.0
Transmission: 6 speed
Would you be willing to scan the instructions and send them to me? I might be getting a kit used off a buddy but he doesn't have the instructions and he lives to far away to come and help me install it. I would really appreciate that.
#20
Theres only two pics on the instructions. They are not worth a damn. I can use pics that I have found of actual engine bays. I don't have a scanner so I can re-type the instructions for you. They are not that long. Fairly simple. I'll tell you what I ran into so you can avoid some of the headache I had to deal with.
#22
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
I had the SLP Dual Cold Air setup when I was TPI.
I wish I didn't trade it. I found out too late that I can make my MAF LT1 into a Speed Density LT1 with a click of a mouse button.
I wish I didn't trade it. I found out too late that I can make my MAF LT1 into a Speed Density LT1 with a click of a mouse button.
#24
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
In the Tunercat software, you can click a button to enable or disable the MAF.
I talked to John at Speartech.com and he said a lot of people that install the LT1 into hot rods run in SD mode.
I talked to John at Speartech.com and he said a lot of people that install the LT1 into hot rods run in SD mode.
#26
Street Legal Performance. Best thing to do is by them from http://www.thunderracing.com. It's one of this sites sponsers. I got mine in just a couple days.
#28
I have read on this vendor review board not to order stuff from SLP direct. The prices are about the same so there is no real need to order direct.
Also a friend of mine bought an exhaust kit from them and he was sent the wrong Y-pipe. He had a real hard time dealing with SLP on the issue.
Also a friend of mine bought an exhaust kit from them and he was sent the wrong Y-pipe. He had a real hard time dealing with SLP on the issue.
#30
You can order the stuff from http://www.summitracing.com I think. Try Hawks. Bruce might be able to get it.
#31
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Car: '89 GTA
Axle/Gears: 3.27/9-bolt
i don't believe summit carries slp stuff, at least not on the website. i did email hawks, we'll see. i've ordered from slp once and the transaction went fine, and if the price is the same i don't see what the diff. is.
thanks for the reply.
thanks for the reply.
#32
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Three questions, on a firebird, where do you relocate the EVAP (charcoal) canister to? Secondly does the lid from SLP under part number 21022 come with the hose that attaches to the MAF? Finally why would the MAF have to be relocated and where to? All questions on an 89 Firebird single inlet. Thanks guys
#33
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SLP Cold Air Kit
Funny everyone's talking about relocating the battery or ditching the charcoal canister. I've got the SLP kit on my Formula. Both the battery and the canister are on the driver's side. Apparently the originial owner simply moved the canister over next to the battery. It's a snug fit but it works.
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