MelloYello

My 1990 Firebird Has had this problem for quite some time now. It runs fine and it starts 19/20 times. However the one time it doesn' want to start is when it has been sitting for 4 hours or more, and even then, it very rarely fails to start. I just want to find and fix the problem to avoid any further incoveniences (sp?).

Here's a typical situation:

I've just spent all night at work. I walk out to my car and disarm the alarm. I get in my car and insert the key, turning it to the ON position. My guages light up and my fuel pump primes the fuel rails. I turn the key to the START position and other gauges light up while my temperature gauge swings to 240 but no start. No clicking, no noise at all. My voltage reads 12volts. I will leave for a few hours, come back, and my car will fire right up.

I will check the water level in my battery tonight to make sure it is full, and clean off any corrosion on my terminals (although I don't think that would cause the described condition).

I'm sure that if the problem was my starter, it would only have this problem when the engine was hot, not cold.

Any other ideas? Thoughts? I'm stranded at school

Ragtop89

Starter solenoid.

Get a nice mini-starter and heat wrap it.

8Mike9

Run the ECM for codes, check for VAT's code.

Cruzin Kaz

Yeah... I would have to say it sounds like a VATS problem. Sometimes either the key or the ignition cylinder itself gets worn, and can cause intermittent starting problems. It's somewhere to start anyway.

AaronIROCZ

iTrader: (5)

The easiest way to eliminate alot of diagnosing is (if you can) when it fails to start again see if you are getting 12 volts from the smaller purple wire on the starter. If you are then the solenoid or starter is bad, if not then you have either a ign switch fault or a vats problem. It can still be a solenoid. If you have ever been able to tear one apart you will find a round metal disc that contacts the 2 large studs that sends juice to the starter. Now every time you start the car that disc and the studs arc for a short period of time causing corrision on the disc. THe disc rotates a little every time when you start the car. Now eventally te corrision will be all over the disc till you have intermintant no start problems also. Next time arm yourself with a large screw driver and wen it fails to start again short the 2 studs together (eliminating the solenoid switch) and it should start.

Anthology83

do you have the old style starter with pole shoes opposed to the perminent magnet?
if you do...sometimes the rotor can get stuck in a certain position from wearing....if you do not have a perminent magnet (if you do this with that design you can ruin it from this) next time this happens just tap your starter with something like a screw driver or small hammer and the rotor will turn just enough to get out of that spot...then try to start it up again

MelloYello

Maybe if it happened when it was hot, but the engine was cold (I also have a remote Ford starter solenoid mounted near my strut tower
Its wierd - I waited an hour after I tried to start the car and came back and it fired right up - hmm. The car was just the same way as I had left it. It wasnt hot before and wasnt hot then...freaky.


I will try this. Does it matter that I have an aftermarket security system installed? - viper 550?

AaronIROCZ and Anthology83:

I suspect it is a worn starter. I have driven my car for 30,XXX miles and have never had to change it (the car has 105,XXX miles now). I talked to a mechanic friend of mine who knows his stuff, and he thinks it is the starter as well. He suggests that I bring a hammer with me and the next time my car refuses to start give the starter a little tap and see if I cant get it to turn over. I thnk I'll just replace the starter this weekend with a mini-starter though. What do you guys think?

Thanks again
Kyle

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

don't rule the alarm as a possible culprit. i've dealt with many alarms that were the source of that exact problem. i guess they were going out and the start kill circuit an/or relay was being energized when it shouldn't have been.

Anthology83

yulp....just like i said.....cause right now i'm enrolled in automotive technology in college and i was informed by my instructor that that happens actually quite a bit to older starters that are....the old pole shoe design like i'm sure yours is

just tap it with a hammer if it won't start bro

AaronIROCZ

iTrader: (5)

If I were to diagnose the problem I would be ready with tools and voltmeter and a extra hand for when it decides not to start. When it does I would check to see if there is 12 volts to the purple start wire on the starter solnoide. If it does have 12 volts most likely the solnoide or starter is bad. If not then it is either a bad ign switch, your alarm has a problem or the vats has a problem. Hope this helps

MelloYello

I fixed the problem on Monday - I installed a mini-starter (which wouldnt fit until I drilled the mounting plate for 2 additional holes with seats for the allen-head mounting bolts, and then clearanced the crap out of the corner of the mounting plate where it kept hitting the oil pan - not a direct bolt-on. Anyway, my car starts every time now with no problems. Thanks for your help, everyone!

Kyle